moving TTB forward?

[spdcrazy]

i was thinking of moving my TTB forward some when i finish building my 35/44.

looks like the easiest way would be to have another engine craddle and put it in front of the stock craddle. then drill the passenger frame rail for the drop bracket. only thing else i can see that one would need to deal with is steering, driveshaft, and radius arms. driveshaft and radius arms are easy, steering might be a bit more touchy...

what ya think guys?

 

[86 slo-vo]

you can move it an inch forward without doing all that....but id say it isnt worth the trouble because basically everything up front would have to move

 

[spdcrazy]

you can move it an inch forward without doing all that....but id say it isnt worth the trouble because basically everything up front would have to move

what ya mean everything?

 

[86 slo-vo]

crossmember, buckets, radius arm mounts and propably the steering box...then moving the motor mounts back and extending the steering

how much are you wanting to move it and why?

 

[wahlstrom1]

Just shim the radius arms ahead, gain a lil tire clearance that way. Anymore then that you'll need to modify the arms or crossmember and it's not really worth the effort to move the pivots and such.

 

[spdcrazy]

radius arms shouldn't be a problem.

if i leave the stock crossmember in place, for the motor mounts, and add a second crossmember from another RBV then install it between the frame rails in front of the stock crossmember. all i would need to do is the associated stuff like has been mentioned

coil bucks (which i need to rebuild anyways)
radius arms (which i need to build)
steering, which i want to do a full cross over setup anyways.

is there anything else that could complicate it?

my motivation is to have a stretched wheelbase, but keep the TTB. I like doing things different, and having a better approach angle. just a little pet project im thinking about

 

[86 slo-vo]

as i said before use your radius arms to push the front an inch forward and then stretch the back. its your rig but just seems like a lot of wasted effort for not much gain

 

[kevinsranger]

as i said before use your radius arms to push the front an inch forward and then stretch the back. its your rig but just seems like a lot of wasted effort for not much gain

will shimming the radius arm an inch effect caster? and without moving the coil bucket won't the spring be slanted forward?

if no to any of those, i would be interested in this route as well!! what would you guys use to shim the arms?

 

[mhughes165]

will shimming the radius arm an inch effect caster? and without moving the coil bucket won't the spring be slanted forward?

if no to any of those, i would be interested in this route as well!! what would you guys use to shim the arms?

hmm, ive never heard of anyone "shimming" a radius arm before, new one by me lol

 

[kevinsranger]

hmm, ive never heard of anyone "shimming" a radius arm before, new one by me lol

i know they make those "caster correction" bushing kits that come with shims to fix the factory caster, but i don't buy that crap, i just got the plain bushings. i just can't see how shimming them forward more won't affect the spring, and drag link and caster. not to mention i dont think i have an inch of thread on the back or my arm

 

[mhughes165]

i know they make those "caster correction" bushing kits that come with shims to fix the factory caster, but i don't buy that crap, i just got the plain bushings. i just can't see how shimming them forward more won't affect the spring, and drag link and caster. not to mention i dont think i have an inch of thread on the back or my arm

idk, it just seems like a bad idea to me

 

[gwaii]

i was thinking of moving my TTB forward some when i finish building my 35/44.

looks like the easiest way would be to have another engine craddle and put it in front of the stock craddle. then drill the passenger frame rail for the drop bracket. only thing else i can see that one would need to deal with is steering, driveshaft, and radius arms. driveshaft and radius arms are easy, steering might be a bit more touchy...

what ya think guys?

i wouldn't use an engine crossmember just because it's too bulky.i'd make a tubular crossmember to attach the pivots,move the radius arm brackets back to the flat part of the frame ahead of the trans crossmember,and build radius arms to suit.the steering box would need to be moved ahead,this really isn't difficult to do,i've actually detailed how to do it elsewhere in this forum.spring buckets and shock mounts are a non-issue if you can do the rest of it.

this should give you 4 1/2-7'' that you can move the axle forward.i moved mine 6 1/2''.

 

[86 slo-vo]

my front is pushed an inch foreward with my james duff arms

 

[kevinsranger]

my front is pushed an inch foreward with my james duff arms

didnt you modify your arms and build in more caster tho?

 

[spdcrazy]

i wouldn't use an engine crossmember just because it's too bulky.i'd make a tubular crossmember to attach the pivots,move the radius arm brackets back to the flat part of the frame ahead of the trans crossmember,and build radius arms to suit.the steering box would need to be moved ahead,this really isn't difficult to do,i've actually detailed how to do it elsewhere in this forum.spring buckets and shock mounts are a non-issue if you can do the rest of it.

this should give you 4 1/2-7'' that you can move the axle forward.i moved mine 6 1/2''.

see i really thought of this aswell. just gotta take measurements on placement of pivot points i guess. i'll look for your TTB info in one of your threads.

as i said before use your radius arms to push the front an inch forward and then stretch the back. its your rig but just seems like a lot of wasted effort for not much gain

sometimes its not exactly the gain, but the project, and fun that comes from doing something different.