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motormount to frame holes....help.


deathbypsi

06/2012 STOTM Winner
MTOTM Winner
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Dec 14, 2008
Messages
718
City
Mich
Vehicle Year
88
Transmission
Manual
Im bout ready to set my 95 stang efi 5.0 in my 90 Bronco2 but I have a question about the location of the holes that need to be drilled in frame for mounts. Im using Energy Suspension mustang mounts with the studs toward the front but I was wondering if anyone knew where to drill the frame or had one of those patterns that come with some of the swap mounts.?.
 
Not really a specific place that works with all swaps. And from what ive read over time it sounds like no one was really pleased with the swap mount directions IIRC.
Heres what i did: With heads on block and trans bolted up and centered, Just get the motor level, roughly even between the frame rails, and slide it back far as possible to the firewall while leaving enough room to get behind the motor to the bellhousing bolts and whatnot. Mark where the mounts are touching, remove motor. Drill those holes out, and drill more holes roughly 2inches lower then slot out between holes. Drop motor back in and it should be good.
 
More than likely thats what I will do....was just hoping to do the holes first so I only have to drop the motor in once. Oh well.

Thanx for the advice.
 
I dropped the motor and trans together. Hooked up the driveshaft as I did it, so the I could use the stock length.
I had the motormounts bolted to the engine as I did this.

Lowered the engine down until the mount bolt touched the crossmember. It made it's own mark, and one side lined up with an existing hole.
We lifted the motor a few inches, drilled hole where the engine mounts made their mark, and another hole an inch or so below that. Then I joined the holes (effectively slotting them in an up-down direction) with a grinder/cut off wheel.

The engine was back very close to the firewall. The mount bolts end up being very close to the top of the crossmember in my case. It's really fun to get them in the holes, took some swearing, as I did not want to make the slots huge.
Others have marked, then bolted the mount loosely to the crossmember, using studs in the block. It's tricky to get the the bolts, no matter which way it's done.
 
Not really a specific place that works with all swaps. And from what ive read over time it sounds like no one was really pleased with the swap mount directions IIRC.
Heres what i did: With heads on block and trans bolted up and centered, Just get the motor level, roughly even between the frame rails, and slide it back far as possible to the firewall while leaving enough room to get behind the motor to the bellhousing bolts and whatnot. Mark where the mounts are touching, remove motor. Drill those holes out, and drill more holes roughly 2inches lower then slot out between holes. Drop motor back in and it should be good.

You'd do better centering the motor between the fenders. The frame rails are offset, not centered under the body. Once that's done, aim the transmission toward the pinion on the rearend.
 
You'd do better centering the motor between the fenders. The frame rails are offset, not centered under the body. Once that's done, aim the transmission toward the pinion on the rearend.

Guess I'll add some further info.

I have a move-able trans crossmember, so it was sitting in the frame rails. I popped the trans mount into the crossmember, so my trans was centered and at the height where I planned to leave it.

As baddad says, I then made sure the thing looked centered and level side to side in the engine bay.
It's much easier than it sounds.
 
Guess I'll add some further info.

I have a move-able trans crossmember, so it was sitting in the frame rails. I popped the trans mount into the crossmember, so my trans was centered and at the height where I planned to leave it.

As baddad says, I then made sure the thing looked centered and level side to side in the engine bay.
It's much easier than it sounds.

I did the same with my transmission crossmember. It too sits up inside the frame rails (3-1/2" channel with a 1-1/4" angle welded to the top with holes punched for the trans mount bolts) It's bolted in with a single 1/2" bolt per side thru the bottom frame rail flange.
 

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