Motor will not start!

[mason87ranger]

I bought an 87 Ford Ranger, no motor in it but guy gave me a long block with majority of parts for it, I have never heard the truck run. I have also bought numerous new parts, been working on it for three weeks. I have followed the chilton's guide for everything. I went to start it and it will not start! I cannot figure out why. I have re-checked everything. I bought new fuel pumps, new fuel filter, new relays, checked all grounds, new injectors, checked compression. I got a NOID light and checked everything, everything registers where it should. The spark plugs are not wet. I used starting fluid and it acts like it want to start but it doesn't. There is fuel up the rail. It has fire, no air in lines. I'm stumped. Can anyone give any advice or suggestions.

 

[baddis]

have you had the ignition module checked?

 

[RonD]

What engine do you have in the '87 Ranger?

Ford computers run the fuel pump(s) for 2 seconds when key is turned on, every time key is turned on.
Do you hear the fuel pump running when key is turned on?
Fuel pumps are not quiet, they are easy to hear.

If not then Fuel Pump fusible link may be damaged, it will be connected on the Battery Post on the starter relay(fender), there are a few fusible links there.
Fuel pump power runs to Fuel Pump relay, computer controls this relay
When the relay closes the fuel pump power then runs to inertia switch in passenger footwell, inertia switch will "pop open" in an accident, it has a reset button on the top.
From inertia switch power runs to a splice by High Pressure pump in frame rail, and then to in tank fuel pump.

There is a Schrader valve(looks like a tire's air valve) on the fuel rail, '87 should have 35-40psi of fuel pressure, if you press on the center pin(like letting air out of a tire) fuel should spray out a long way.
On the fuel rail there is also the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR), it will have a fuel line(return line) and a vacuum hose attached.
With engine off, remove return line.
Turn on the key, fuel pumps should start and NO gas should come out of FPR, if gas comes out replace FPR

If you manually add gas to intake or use Starting Fluid, engine should fire up and stay running for a second or two, so you may have spark timing issue as well.
It is possible to install a distributor backwards, 180degs off.
Crank has 2 TDCs, top dead centers, #1 TDC compression stroke, #1 TDC exhaust stroke.
Distributor rotor needs to be pointed at #1 spark plug wire when crank is at #1 TDC compression stroke.
Pull out #1 spark plug
Rotate crank manually, it will be hard to turn thru the other 5 cylinder compression strokes, when you get to #1 it will get easier to turn but put finger in #1 spark plug hole and you will feel air being forced out, that's the compression stroke, continue to rotate crank until TDC mark is lined up at 0deg on marker.
Pop distributor cap and rotor should be pointed at #1, if not pull out distributor and make it line up to #1.

Yes, TFI system is very old now and pretty much all have failed at some point and need repair.

 

[mason87ranger]

First I would like to say thank you for your suggestions. My 87 Ranger is a 2.3L gas engine. I can tell you without going to get gauge to test pressure that gas barely trickles out of bleeder on fuel rail. Whenever I bled it out to get the air out of the lines I finally got gas but it barely came out. If I do not have 35-40 psi, what would be the problem? Should I take the return line off first to check that?

 

[baddis]

not sure if the 2.3 had the tfi module on the dist but I would have it checked along with seeing if both pumps have power

 

[RonD]

Well that would be first problem to address, low/no fuel pressure.
Fuel injectors need pressure behind them for gas to "squirt" out.

Do you hear the fuel pumps come on with the key?


You can manually turn on the fuel pump relay.
Look here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

Second diagram shows the OBD1 connector found in the engine bay by the firewall, usually drivers side but have seen it on the passenger side as well.
The Fuel Pump slot is the Ground connection for the Fuel pump relay, if key is ON, and you Ground that slot with a wire, fuel pump relay should close and fuel pumps should come on and stay on until you turn the key off or remove the Ground wire.
It doesn't hurt the fuel pumps to leave them running, they run the whole time the engine is running, this allows you to check each fuel pump to see if it is working.

 

[mason87ranger]

Again, thank you. I can hear the fuel pump come on. I have not been able to tell if both are coming on but I can hear it come on. I hear the click and they come on every time I turn the key on. I will be doing the test this morning you suggested with the fuel line. I will get back with you. Thank you again.

 

[RonD]

If you can't get pressure at the rail(schrader valve), then you could have a clogged fuel line, clogged "sock", used as a filter for the in tank pump, and/or a clogged accumulator.

The accumulator was used when the high pressure pump was added in the frame rail for conversion to fuel injection, it allowed for a reservoir of fuel to be available for this pump at startup.
Ford Part #: E7TA-9K044-AA

Pictures and descriptions of it here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132119

 

[mason87ranger]

I did replace the FPR this morning. I tried to start it, it acted like it was going to start the very first time it cranked. As soon as it did that I went out to make sure all the hoses and everything was on correctly. Then I went back in to try to start it again and now it won't start. I think it's the new starter I put on. So tomorrow I am going to go back to the basics and check all grounds and all wires. I thank you for all of your help and I will let you know tomorrow what happens. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[RonD]

Turn the key on, then count to 3, turn key off
Repeat 3 times, then try to start engine.

What you are doing is Priming the fuel pressure 4 times, to build it up

 

[mason87ranger]

I've had a really bad day. Now I don't even hear the fuel pumps turning on. I have no idea what to do. I have checked everything, I am completely stumped. I do not understand how it was cranking and now there is nothing. Any advice?

 

[RonD]

Couple of things to check:
1. Ground cable from battery to the engine, loosen and clean BOTH ends
2. Ground strap from engine head to firewall, it is often left hanging after engine work, this is the MAIN Ground for all the electrics.

3. Positive battery cable, clean BOTH ends.
One end will be on the Starter Relay, it will have several other wires attached with it on the post, this is the MAIN power distribution for the vehicle, pull off all the wires and clean ends then clean post.

4. On the other larger post of the starter relay there should be only ONE cable, it goes to starter motor, if there is more than one cable then that is your problem, or one of them, lol.

 

[mason87ranger]

I have racked my brain this weekend trying to figure it out. I still cannot get the truck to start. I checked the injectors today to make sure they were working. I made sure oil was pumping. Both fuel pumps are working. Truck will run for a few seconds when I spray ether in it. I have checked all grounds. Took new starter back to Autozone and exchanged it for another one, they tested other one, said it was bad. I bought a new battery even though the other tested fine. I am all out of ideas. I checked and rechecked everything. I've tested everything I can think of to test. Any suggestions??

 

[RonD]

I have racked my brain this weekend trying to figure it out. I still cannot get the truck to start. I checked the injectors today to make sure they were working. I made sure oil was pumping. Both fuel pumps are working. Truck will run for a few seconds when I spray ether in it. I have checked all grounds. Took new starter back to Autozone and exchanged it for another one, they tested other one, said it was bad. I bought a new battery even though the other tested fine. I am all out of ideas. I checked and rechecked everything. I've tested everything I can think of to test. Any suggestions??

If engine starts when you manually add fuel(ether spray) then dies, you are not getting fuel into the engine, as simple and as complicated as that.

Check schrader valve on the fuel rail, looks like tire's air valve, there should be 40psi of pressure behind that valve, stand off to the side and press in the center pin, fuel should shoot out 20-30feet.

I just read a post the other day where the fuel return and feed hoses were reversed on the engine, so working pumps but no fuel at the rail.

 

[tomw]

If you have not replaced it, I'd try a new fuel pressure relay. They can get 'tired' over time and the points wear such that they overheat and will not conduct the amperage they did when new. If you jumper the OBD-I connector, and the pumps run continuously, you should get fuel out the schrader when you poke the center pin. If you don't, you may have blockage in the tank as noted. The sock on the lift/low pressure pump in the tank could be plugged with crud. You could use an alternate supply by feeding the filter/accumulator housing on the frame rail from a gravity tank. I'd rather check that the lift pump works by disconnecting it from the filter housing than fiddle with the other things. This is assuming that you do not get fuel out of the injector rail or the FPR when you checked.
tom