More Overheating Problems...

[79Camaro]

I would like to pull the timing cover as a last resort. I can't afford a machine shop, it took me months just to save up for the new radiator and pump. So I would have to undertake the drilling/helicoil. What do you think of putting locktite on with a bolt and letting in dry for 24 hours before attempting to remove it?

as for the thread title, I didn't change it I guess a mod did.

 

[--weezl--]

loctite on what?

 

[79Camaro]

loctite on what?

on the the shaft that is still sticking out. it has threads at the base against the block just not the very end. Maybe I could get it to hold and then back it out.

 

[--weezl--]

on 2 nuts? worth a try...

 

[shane96ranger]

So you really have zero access to a welder? I think you could get it by welding a nut on there and some heat.

 

[79Camaro]

Actually, my brother heard me talking about all this and thinks that his friend may have a mig. Maybe I can borrow it if it even exsits. Also I was thinking maybe home depot rents one, but who knows for how much.

 

[--weezl--]

Hone depot DOES rent them in Canada... I forget the price though

 

[79Camaro]

Thanks for all the help so far!

This morning I put double nuts on it again, along with loctite and I'm now just waiting for the cure time. Before attempting to remove it I'm going to apply some quick heat and tap lightly with a hammer to try and get it free. I'll let you all know how it goes.

 

[--weezl--]

be careful with the heat, aluminum doesn't do well with torches (i'm fairly sure your timing cover is aluminum) and loctite melts with heat, so it will counteract the whole loctite deal...

put the nuts together, and tighten them onto eachother (with loctite) as much as you can, let it dry, then thread the whole thing out, from the bottom nut... if that breaks the loctite, THEN try the heat

 

[79Camaro]

Well when I tried to turn the nuts they just started spinning like I had never even put loctite on it(before applying heat). I removed them and heated up the timing cover around the shaft(lightly), tapped it with a hammer, and poured wax on it hoping that I shocked it free. Then I put both nuts back on with even more loctite and I will try it again tomorrow.

The way this is going, it looks like I better start finding out homedepots prices to rent a mig.

 

[--weezl--]

In Canada the most expensive tool was 36$ for 4 hours, but you need to buy wire on top of that... You might be lucky and have a bit of the end of a spool left over

 

[79Camaro]

The second round of loctite failed, then i tried jb weld, hammering, wax, vise grips....nothing. So I think before renting a weld, and wire, mask+whatever else I'm just going to try and put the new pump on and see if it leaks. I looked at the placement of the bolt, and it might work.

Heres a photo of the new pump. It's the bolt hole on the far right. If I leave the shaft and fill the hole with gasket sealant, it might work with the two larger bolts to it's left?

 

[79Camaro]

Sorry it took a few days for an update. I had to wait for a new belt tensioner in the mail. So anyhow, I put it all back together today and as of now I still see no leaks at the water pump. I guess the bolts next to it are enough. But now I have another problem. After installing the new radiator, I can't get the transmission cooling lines to stop leaking at the connection points. I don't feel as if I can tighten it down anymore without breaking them. Was I supposed to use some type of sealant? The manual doesn't say. If so what kind?

Thank you all for the help!

 

[79Camaro]

Fixed the leak at the trans lines now. Truck seems to be running great.

Thank you all again.

 

[Stereodoc]

Here's a trick that has worked for me with stubborn shafts, bolts, etc. Especially when your dealing with steel to aluminum interfaces. For a couple of days apply liquid wrench or something similar and let the chemical soak in. Apply every few hours for a couple of days. During that time go to radio shack or some electronics house and get yourself a can of freeze spray or what is know as circuit cooler. Heat up the surrounding area with a propane torch and get the surrounding area hot. Do not apply heat to the stud. You want to keep the surrounding work area cooler. Once it is sufficiently heated apply the freeze spray to the bolt or stud and immediately clamp a tool to it and unscrew. You want to localize the freeze spray as much as possible. Try to spray it sparingly on the bolt, shaft, nut or whatever. I might take one or 2 tries but it should come out like it was greased with butter.

If that doesn't work you can always use the freeze spray to remove warts