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More B3000 questions


ok don 4331 sorry so that sounds correct, my error, 4R70W would be beefier

ok vents cool

3.slo lolol

So, 5.0L from Explorer and 4R70W from 'stang. cool.

What gives with the 7.5" axles? Is that the length or diameter or what (ignoramus here). Should I worry about that, or should/could I swap them out?

found this https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-7-5-inch-rear-axle-history-specs/

I think they are same length, right? I have no idea why they would have put 7.5 but as long as it's not a problem I wouldn't care. Or else I'd have to swap it out.

Wouldn't be that terrible to have 3.73 ratio rear end that really sounds about right doesn't it? Could even go 3..9x or 4.11 or whatever, it would just rev more. But I'd want to be able to drive on freeway at 75 and not have it way high revs of course.

Glad I put build sticker up there. Does it say on there where it was made? There's some codes I don't know what they are. I guess VIN has lot of info in it too.

ok good on vent back windows, that sounds like just another problem and I have the center sliding section of rear window, I guess its stock though I see some with only 2 sections.

I see tweeter advice is door pillar not jamb. sorry. I get it.
 
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ok don 4331 sorry so that sounds correct, my error, 4R70W would be beefier

ok vents cool

3.slo lolol

So, 5.0L from Explorer and 4R70W from 'stang. cool.

What gives with the 7.5" axles? Is that the length or diameter or what (ignoramus here). Should I worry about that, or should/could I swap them out?

found this https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-7-5-inch-rear-axle-history-specs/

I think they are same length, right? I have no idea why they would have put 7.5 but as long as it's not a problem I wouldn't care. Or else I'd have to swap it out.

Wouldn't be that terrible to have 3.73 ratio rear end that really sounds about right doesn't it? Could even go 3..9x or 4.11 or whatever, it would just rev more. But I'd want to be able to drive on freeway at 75 and not have it way high revs of course.

Glad I put build sticker up there. Does it say on there where it was made? There's some codes I don't know what they are. I guess VIN has lot of info in it too.

ok good on vent back windows, that sounds like just another problem and I have the center sliding section of rear window, I guess its stock though I see some with only 2 sections.
If you can find a 2wd Explorer V8, the transmission from it will work just fine.
Side note... I have a 2wd Explorer V8 transmission in my storage unit taking up space. I'd be glad to give it to you any time just to have it out of the way.

7.5" is the ring gear diameter. Generally, the 7.5 should work out fine for your use (especially in a 2wd with stock size tires). The Explorer axle is a good swap option but it's nothing to rush out and do.

Any of the stock gear ratios will let you run 75. 3.73 is probably about right with the V8, and overdrive transmission, and stock tires (IMO).
 
@fastpakr: Don't you need the dash wiring, the correct GEM (to turn off fogs when you switch to brights), the under hood wiring, etc, if you want to put factory fog lights in a non fog light truck? The manual crank windows and no fogs usual means GEMS doesn't even have the connector. I think it was the GEM that held me back. So, full aftermarket was easier than retrofitting.
I don't know if the stock fog lights were wired through the GEM. But if you were adding them to a vehicle, my preference would be to simply use the factory switch and wire it into the lights using a relay.
 
Yeah don legally you can't run high beam and fogs, I used to do it in my '85 5.0l 'stang, but I wired it myself, and used them out of town which is basically everything up where I was I wouldn't do it again just asking for a ticket

You are saying, just have them on always when parking lights or low beam is on? That would work.

What's GEM stand for?
 
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@fastpakr yeah man I think I want it THANKS what's the trans spec in it again?

I understand 8.8 and 7.5 are same length axle just like you say it's the ring gear. What does 8.8 vs 7.5 get you, stronger? is it posi traction?
 
The ring and pinion gears are stronger as a function of their size. The shafts (running outwards from the differential to the wheel) are 31 splines rather than 28, so quite a bit stronger. Most Explorer axles do have a stock limited slip setup. And your 7.5 may have 9" brakes - the Explorer will either have 10" drums or discs depending on year.

As I recall, all Explorer axles are 1 inch wider than the stock Ranger axle. Not enough to make a difference. The big issue in the swap is that the spring perches and shock mounts are in the wrong places. You end up having to cut off the old ones and get new ones welded on. Not a huge deal, but it's a pain to work through. There's a kit with all the pieces needed from Ruff Stuff. Then it's just manual labor to remove the old bits, carefully mark where the new ones need to go, and get them welded on.
 
Thanks. Discs for rear would def. be better if it can happen.

The 1" will not make the wheels/tires stick out past the fenders? I guess if so you could get diff wheels with diff backspacing but I love the stock alloys they are beautiful.

I have 220V outlet in the shop, it has its own 200A box separate from house which makes it super nice. Probably was there for welder. I can get welder and learn I suppose or just if one-shot deal, have someone do it.

I will check out Ruff Stuff thanks a lot. That's really nice of you.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_110CAR8000/Jensen-CAR8000.html?tp=20217

they say this will fit my dash with no mod except have to cut some stuff behind where it won't show. Like you were saying about the larger speakers.

I think I'll ask for it for xmas. can't afford it right now.
 
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I can't even tell that there's a difference in width. It's half an inch per side so it just doesn't show up.

For what it's worth, the bigger drums are simpler in that they integrate with the existing braking system a lot more easily. But either one is a well worn path.

B&M Sheet Metal shop on Salem Ave did the welding work for me. I can't remember how much it was, but nothing horrible.
 
oh, right.... 1/2" per. nothing. thanks.

bigger drums are ok too. most braking is front anyway cuz of weight transfer. I think.

ok, B&M, already does this stuff. I also need flue collector for American Standard boiler from I think 1940, all is good except that, and it's odd shape sheet metal I can't really do myself. I have shear but it's the bending and shaping and has to have seams etc f'ing nightmare it's been patched so many times there's more patch than metal THANKS

I'm sorry if I'm asking this again, what did you say the trans that you have there in storage was?
 
A few quick photos to show the simple audio setup I'm running. Stock size speakers up front w/ tweeters surface mounted in the A pillar. Rear doors have 5x7/6x8 stock - I trimmed things a bit to squeeze 6x9's in there. And a simple single DIN media receiver in the dash.
 

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The transmission I have in storage is a 2wd transmission from a '99 V8 Explorer. My donor vehicle was a 2wd, so I used everything from it except that. Picked up a 4wd transmission on Craigslist instead.
 
oh man that is nice. love the power windows.

thank you

well I guess I was asking, and maybe there's only one for that year/model/engine - like, is it 4r70W? sorry I'm so dense Google is telling me it's the 4r70W if so that would be f'ing awesome.

4r75E in 4x4 I guess. just to cover the bases. let me know if I'm wrong about yours being 4r70W pls.
 
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That's correct, it's a 4R70W. All the 5.0 Explorers (96-01) used it.
 
Oh man. That is so terrific. You da man. Hope we can meet up after you get some time, oh, btw, any time is good for me I work for myself so the boss lets me set my own hours lol
 
Sounds good. I'll have to look around to see if I have anything else that might be useful. I'm paying for two storage units at the moment and I really want to reduce that. So getting the transmission out the door helps me out.
 

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