More 2.9 Over Heating Problems

[DesertMike345]

Hi I'm new to the forum but have been lurking for some time with ranger problems. I have a 1989 2.9 with 5-speed long bed. I've had over heating problems for quite awhile. Had engine rebuilt about 4 years ago and still not quite right. They replaced a cracked head along with pistons, valve job, cam, bearings, water pump etc. etc. I have more than one car so I can still get around. Ok, I'm still having over heating problems. I just put new World heads along with Pacesetter headers on, did not fix problem, Changed water temp sensor and now temp stays between A-L on gauge instead of going right to left to right as your driving. Used to stay between R-M on gauge a long time ago. So I think I'm making progress. Changed thermostat and did not change problem. The radiator was cleaned out at time of rebuild and water pump was also changed so I don't think those are a problem unless the pump is the one for a serpitine which runs backwards. The top hose gets hot, so I think it's moving water. My question is can the exhaust system be clogged up enough to create to much back pressure and cause over heating? I have 230,000 plus miles on the converter and muffler. The exhaust at the tailpipe sounds gargeled. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
Mike

 

[Big Jim M]

Well maybe!

Hi I'm new to the forum but have been lurking for some time with ranger problems. I have a 1989 2.9 with 5-speed long bed. I've had over heating problems for quite awhile. Had engine rebuilt about 4 years ago and still not quite right. They replaced a cracked head along with pistons, valve job, cam, bearings, water pump etc. etc. I have more than one car so I can still get around. Ok, I'm still having over heating problems. I just put new World heads along with Pacesetter headers on, did not fix problem, Changed water temp sensor and now temp stays between A-L on gauge instead of going right to left to right as your driving. Used to stay between R-M on gauge a long time ago. So I think I'm making progress. Changed thermostat and did not change problem. The radiator was cleaned out at time of rebuild and water pump was also changed so I don't think those are a problem unless the pump is the one for a serpitine which runs backwards. The top hose gets hot, so I think it's moving water. My question is can the exhaust system be clogged up enough to create to much back pressure and cause over heating? I have 230,000 plus miles on the converter and muffler. The exhaust at the tailpipe sounds gargeled. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
Mike

Yes the exhaust system can cause overheating... But it is doubtful from your post that the exhaust is the problem.
My first guess would be the owner doesn't know to turn the heater to high and fill the coolant system while it is running... Continueing to fill for 10 minutes while the COMPLETE system is filled.
The fluctuation in the temp needle says NOT ENOUGH COOLANT! Or it is telling you there is something wrong with either the temp sender or the gauge itself.
There is also a possibility the fan clutch isn't doing it's job to the fullest, or the pump vanes have rusted away.
Big JIm

 

[DesertMike345]

Big Jim

Thanks for the input. I have flushed the system several times with the heater on full. Since changing the water sensor and now have a stable mark on the gauge (a little on the high side but not boiling over or being to hot in the engine bay) I am down to the gauge itself. I'm going to get an after market gauge and put in sensor hole to verify temp.

Thanks
Mike

 

[RustedRanger]

To check the actual temp I thought about leaving the rad cap loose and then sticking a meat thermometer in the antifreeze once it gets up to temp.

 

[Big Jim M]

OK

To check the actual temp I thought about leaving the rad cap loose and then sticking a meat thermometer in the antifreeze once it gets up to temp.

So the oven temp gauge shows 208*... Now what are ya gonna do?
Guys if it don't boil over it is OK! Every part of the engine will withstand
350*... EXCEPT the water mixed in with the coolant. So as long as that WATER in the coolant stays inside the coolant system you know the temp is BELOW 235*.. Which is about the boiling point of that water under 16 pounds of pressure. So if it ain't boiling over it is OK!
Big JIm

 

[DesertMike345]

Ok, I bought an aftermarket water temp gauge and all is well with the temp. Looks like the factory gauge is bad. Hangs around 200 to 210 idleing, and about 190 when reved up. Since I flushed the engine the radiator started a small leak and hissing. I'm going to put in a new radiator. Like "muerte69" I want to put in an 91-94 Explorer 2 row radiator. Mine is a 1989 ranger 2.9 with 5 speed manual and AC. Will the following radiator be ok?

http://www.autopartsfair.com/ford-exterior_parts/ranger-1993-radiators-p1164.html

Thanks
Mike

 

[DesertMike345]

Forgot to also ask.

What is everybodies opion on plastic tanks vs metal tanks on the radiator?

Mike

 

[ragajungle]

They all get crappy and leak eventually / miles / abuse etc.. (metal/aluminum/plastic)

Was it hard to wire up the new temp gauge? Where'd you put it? Pics?

 

[BLUTHUNDER1]

Engine overheating

BIG JIM IS WRONG ON HIS WATER ANTIFREEZE FACTS The optimum coolant combination is a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. The 50/50 mixture will produce freeze protection down to -34F (-36C), and boil over protection up 265F (129C). However, in colder climates, where lower temperature freeze protection is needed, a mixture of up to 70% antifreeze can be used.

Although regular water will do, the refilling of the system should be done with distilled water. Distilled water doesn't contain any minerals which can dissolve and cause scale and deposits in your cooling system. YOU CAN ALSO TAKE A HAND HELD INFRARED HEAT GUN AND CHECK FOR LOW OR HIGH TEMP SPOTS WITCH WOULD BE A SIGN OF CLOGGING OR SOME KIND OF BLOCKAGE . JUST A COUPLE OF THOUGHTS HOPE THE NEW RADIATOR WORKED.

 

[r1hatman]

Here is what i put in mine, see if it will fit in yours. It's 3 row.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...y-Rad_3901300-P_31_R|GRPCOOLAMS_1443170390___

 

[Big Jim M]

I beg your pardon!

BIG JIM IS WRONG ON HIS WATER ANTIFREEZE FACTS The optimum coolant combination is a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. The 50/50 mixture will produce freeze protection down to -34F (-36C), and boil over protection up 265F (129C). However, in colder climates, where lower temperature freeze protection is needed, a mixture of up to 70% antifreeze can be used.

Although regular water will do, the refilling of the system should be done with distilled water. Distilled water doesn't contain any minerals which can dissolve and cause scale and deposits in your cooling system. YOU CAN ALSO TAKE A HAND HELD INFRARED HEAT GUN AND CHECK FOR LOW OR HIGH TEMP SPOTS WITCH WOULD BE A SIGN OF CLOGGING OR SOME KIND OF BLOCKAGE . JUST A COUPLE OF THOUGHTS HOPE THE NEW RADIATOR WORKED.

Blu you need to google ETHYLENE GLYCOL and find out some facts about it.
Ethylene glycol doesn't boil until 450* and has been used in coolant systems in the desert for many years.
Water boils at 212* at sea level pressure. When a 16* cap is placed on a coolant system the water inside that system won't boil until a little over 235* is reached.
When the two are mixed together the freezing point of ethylene glycol is lowered from about 0*F. Ethylene glycol doesn't freeze hard at that temperature it turns "slushy".
The two components mixed together make each other more resistant to freezing. HOWEVER at 212* at sea level pressure the WATER will still boil out of the mixture.
Down here in Texas many of us run pure ethylene glycol in our rides. It is a great coolant system lubricant for the coolant pump and it will never boil out of the system. The engine will fail from heat before the ethylene glycol will boil out.
Big JIm

 

[DesertMike345]

Well I got the new radiator in. Bolted right up and was able to use the existing hoses. Had to make a hold down for the bottom of the fan shroud. After checking with the after market gauge I hooked up the dash unit. Still shows on the warm side but now I know its ok. I payed some extra $$ because the local parts shop had one in stock and I wanted to get this project done. The unit I took out was about 1 and ¼ inches thick, The new unit is about 2 and ¼ inches thick.

ragajungle I got an electric gauge at Kragens made by EQUUS for $16. I did not mount it. I just used it in the engine bay to get a reading. But if you were going to do that I would get it with the battery and oil pressure also. In my 89 I would mount it under the ash tray.

r1hatman Thanks for the input on the radiator. I spent so much time looking at radiators online that my head was spinning so I just bought one as above. lol. But I did get a 91-94 Explorer HD with 2 rows. On yours the cap is a little lower and the outlet a little nicer than mine but I was ok.

Don't know how to post pics,....photobucket????

Mike

 

[r1hatman]

Yeah, photobucket. Copy and paste image link then click on the pic button and paste the link.

 

[DesertMike345]

Here's some pics of the install. It just bolted right in with no problems.

Mike
(sorry the pics may be a little big, I'll work on that)

This is the gauge that I used. It comes with several adapters.

Gauge in engine bay.

New radiator is about 2 and 1/4 inches wide.

Cap is a little higher.

Water outlet.

Radiator installed. Its a little tighter now.

Although I didn't buy this brand, this is what it looks like.

Old unit.

 

[ragajungle]

uhhhg! no pics showed up!

(edit: sorry my computer is retarded - no offense to any retards on here)