Modifying the MAF for Improved Air Flow

[Lefty]

Recently i watched this video which showed how to modify an MAF for a Ranger 3.0 Vulcan.

Ford Ranger 3.0L Mass Airflow Mod - YouTube

The Ranger showed a vertical aluminum center support which bisected the opening. The recommendation was to saw it out leaving just enough to hold the sensor at the top.

I thought to do the same to my 2003 Vulcan only too discover that the center support was made from plastic. I would have maybe sawed it out except there seemed to be another little green sensor on the bottom.

I suppose I could saw it out anyway except it might throw a code or somehow affect the sensors.

I could look for an older model model at the U Pull yard, one that has a metal post,1992-19995 except it may take a different plug or even affect the computer.


Any suggestions? Thank you all in advance.

 

[sgtsandman]

Those sensors are pretty sensitive. I don't know if I would want to mess with it.

 

[Lefty]

Those sensors are pretty sensitive. I don't know if I would want to mess with it.

Very reasonable. Perhaps someone else has done that and been there.

 

[Blmpkn]

I can't get to the video through the link for whatever reason, but if it's the same one I just watched on YouTube I'd be a little more than skeptical.

I believe what I see, or what can be shown to me. Without any sort of before/after dyno sheet or even basic datalogging to quantify this "noticeable difference" I have to write it off.

Psychology can very easily trick you into believing something made a massive difference after all... putting an exhaust loud enough to rupture your ear drums on a 3 cyl geo metro isn't gonna actually make it go any faster... but if you were the one in the driver's seat before & after... your definitely gonna think it's halfway to an f1 car after install.

 

[Lefty]

I can't get to the video through the link for whatever reason, but if it's the same one I just watched on YouTube I'd be a little more than skeptical.

I believe what I see, or what can be shown to me. Without any sort of before/after dyno sheet or even basic datalogging to quantify this "noticeable difference" I have to write it off.

Psychology can very easily trick you into believing something made a massive difference after all... putting an exhaust loud enough to rupture your ear drums on a 3 cyl geo metro isn't gonna actually make it go any faster... but if you were the one in the driver's seat before & after... your definitely gonna think it's halfway to an f1 car after install.

Yes. That link did not copy through correctly, sorry. Here it is.
Ford Ranger 3.0L Mass Airflow Mod - YouTube

 

[RonD]

I would first TEST your Ranger to see if there is restricted air flow

Generally speaking automakers spec 200% air flow for air filters(so they can get dirty, lol) and 125-150% thru MAF and throttle body

You will need a Vacuum gauge and a hose long enough so you can mount it, temporarily, on the dash so you can read vacuum while driving(FAST!!)
Gasoline Engines need some vacuum so air/fuel flows into the cylinders, under 1.5" of vacuum you start to lose power, but................
If vacuum is too high at wide open throttle(WOT) there are intake air restrictions, so at WOT you want about 2" of vacuum

Mount the gauge
Find a nice long stretch of road where you can max out engine RPMs/speed without danger or tickets, lol
Watch the gauge
At WOT and max RPMs vacuum will drop to 0 when "Valves Float", thats the point when intake and exhaust valves are both staying open so 0 vacuum and 0 power
But just before that you should be able to see 2" to 2.5" of vacuum, if it only goes down to 3" and suddenly drops to 0" then you may benefit from better air flow


And just FYI
MAF sensor is there to WEIGH the air, "mass" air flow, mass = weight
And the MAF sensor only measures a certain % of the air passing by it, 10 to 15%, computer is preset to know that value of the factory MAF sensor
So if you change the % by modifying the opening you will usually not get more power you will get lean codes

Computer already "knows" its running a 3 LITER engine, so it can easily calculate the air being pulled in based on RPM, just math
What varies is the WEIGHT of that air, by temperature and by elevation above sea level
MAF is there to correct for those differences
14.7:1 air:fuel mix is a WEIGHT RATIO, not volume
14.7 pounds of air to 1 pound of gasoline

A cubic foot of air at say 70degF at sea level(LA) weighs 0.08lbs
Same cubic foot of air at 5,000ft(Denver) weighs 0.065lbs
For temp, at 32deg it weighs 0.09lbs and at 90deg 0.07lbs
Air weight changes alot

If you modify the MAF and its using 10% scale then any changes are TIMES 10 in errors it causes

 

[Curious Hound]

I’ve seen that. I would be skeptical. It’s not going to give you any appreciable improvements and makes the MAF more susceptible to damage. I think some MAFs have a temperature sensor incorporated. That my be the little green part you mentioned. Earlier trucks had a separate temperature sensor mounted in the air box.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^

4 wire MAF is just the heated MAF
6 wire is the heated MAF with separate temp sensor inside

 

[RobbieD]

Find a nice long stretch of road where you can max out engine RPMs/speed without danger or tickets, lol
Watch the gauge

. . . AND the road.

 

[Lefty]

So it would appear that those older MAFs would not work inside a newer Ranger. Perhaps too this modification would not really be worth it for older versions too.

Thanks! I'm glad I asked.