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Modding/Dropping Centerlink Pivot Points


legoms013

09/2013 OTOTM
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
2,629
City
CA
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
How much should I drop my centerlink?

2" is what 4x4 Junkie suggests, and what I was going to do originally. But it looks like I could go 2.5", or even 3". Is that asking too much of the Superlift idler arm? Eventually the Superlift bushings will get replaced with a stiffer compound bushing or a needle bearing setup.

Sorry for the crappy picture, but basically the 3" mark is level with the top of the level I have set up. The top of the level is centerline of the tie-rod-ends.

I'm leaning towards dropping it 2.5", that puts the pivot points for the TRE's 3.75" from the bottom of the tubing on the centerlink, and only about 0.25"-0.5" from making the tie-rods completely flat (which would be good enough for me).

1-TonSuperrunner2.jpg


1-TonSuperrunner1.jpg
 
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You're running the axle in the lower bracket holes, huh...?

You'd need to drop that centerlink down a whole 4" to line that up. That would be too much for the Superlift idler with it's soft bushings, yes.

Stiffer bushings (or bearings even) would make it better, though the arm itself and also the frame bracket needs to be reinforced (which I would do anyway).

I did this one for a buddy, and though it's not perfect, it's worked pretty well for him. It's dropped 2" (SJ 6" lift w/8" coils on a Supercab).

installed.jpg

idlerarm.jpg
 
Yes, 8" coils with 6" brackets, beams in the lower pivot hole. I am surprised at how much better it drives as is now (with the superlift stuff) over my past setups. It drives substantially better, and I am not fighting to stay in a lane like before. Even with my tie-rods no where close to horizontal.

So maybe I will do what your friend did and only drop it 2"....or possible 2.5" since the idler arm will get a different set of bushings eventually that will be better (or if I can locate something, maybe even a needle bearing setup).

For now though I am ecstatic about how much better it handles....and will hold off on dropping the center-link any amount for a while yet.

Your friends Ranger looks like the tie-rods are fairly close to flat, so I'm confident 2-2.5 of drop will work wonders for handling. It must drive pretty good too...

I just wasn't sure if dropping it a full 3-4" was even feasible, and it seems it is not. Thanks Junkie.
 
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It still has a barely noticeable bit of bumpsteer, but it's nothing to where the truck is wanting to go all over the place, or eating the tires all up (not like it was with the stock linkage & too-short FA400 drop arm).

If you're looking to put needle bearings in the upper end of the idler, I'd say go 3" dropped with it.
 
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There are pictures of mine dropped 3" on here.I changed my bushings to delron.I have put over 40,000 miles on the setup with no problem.
 

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