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MOD5-R1 Hard shifting.


cargs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2007
Messages
189
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
I have a 93 ranger with a 3.0 and a M5OD-R1 transmission. 180,000 Km

frequently i have a hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd under normal load. every other gear shifts fine. It has a new clutch and slave. The slave is not leaking and it goes into 1st and reverse with out a problem. I have changed the fluid (with ATF) and checked the level.

i think it is the "synchros" (not too sure on terminology).

questions:

1. how can i diagnose the problem further?

2. does anyone have the name of a reputable transmission rebuilder, i'm looking for one that will ship the engine to washington state for pickup. (please actually one you have dealt with).

3. failing buying a rebuilt tranny, i would like to rebuild a junkyard one my self. it there any detailed manuals out there for the M5OD-R1?


thanks for the help!

cargs
 
1. Tear it down. You test a blocking ring by putting it in one hand and the corresponding gear in the other, pushing them together and trying to turn it. A good blocking ring will "grab" the gear cone with modest pressure. At least remove the top cover and take a look; it MIGHT be something else, or might be very obvious (for instance, a broken blocking ring). Frankly, you don't care unless you're rebuilding it yourself.

2. No idea in Washington State. And my experience with mail order rebuilds has not been good. I'd go to a local reputable builder whose shop you can actually visit. Keep in mind that cross-country shipping for a transmission tops $100 each way. They weigh about 80 lbs.

3. The only one is the Ford chassis service manual. It's decent, but one does find significant errors on occasion, so keep an eye out.
 
Rebuilding a manual requires a few special tools. I built all but the special pair of pliers which I bought from Snap on. The rear bearing needs to be pressed off. If you pry and hammer on it, You will cause damage. On reassembly you need a really long socket to torque the nut. I don't remember the size but, it is bigger than 1". The socket is about one foot long. On tear down that socket makes your life a whole lot easier, Just zip the nut off with an impact.
Just install the used one and tear your old one apart. Used is ok. Every other part in your truck is used.
 
thanks for the advice.

the local pickapart here has a 93 with a 3.0L & 5spd. i think i will go and pull that one out. take the top cover off and see the condition. depending on the condition i'll either put it right in and rebuilt my original or rebuilt the replacement.
 
id rebuild the replacement if its needed and then take a day and swap em out. Then rebuild yours thats in there now and sell it off and get your money back. Have the replacement trans inspected tho to first even see if it needes rebuilding.
 
Mutant Pony, you mean the lock-ring pliers? You can get that from much cheaper sources than Snap-On. I think mine's a PowerBuilt (i.e., POS).

Though I have yet to rip an M5OD apart, with one exception (TK5), the others could all have the locknut removed with a huge-ass crescent wrench.

Disassembling a transmission requires some creativity with puller modifications, or a shop press. I've removed pressed-on bearings both ways. The press isn't always easier (e.g., for the SM465, which when it still has the shafts in the case weighs well over 100 lbs). There are other ways to do it, but they generally require banging on stuff (which you say is bad in this case -- sometimes it is and sometimes it isn't), or cutting torches (which are always bad around hardened parts).

There is also the trick (once the shift linkage has been removed) of putting the transmission in two gears at once to keep the shafts from rotating while you remove locknuts or crank down a puller.
 
On reassembly you need a really long socket to torque the nut. I don't remember the size but, it is bigger than 1". The socket is about one foot long. On tear down that socket makes your life a whole lot easier, Just zip the nut off with an impact.
Just install the used one and tear your old one apart. Used is ok. Every other part in your truck is used.

you mean one of these? :D
2923646_43_full.jpg


it actually has two sizes in one. the inner size is 1 1/4" and the outer one is 1 3/8".

i actually never knew what this crazy socket was for before tonight.
 
Actually no. th socket you need for the Mazda tailshaft nut is 55mm
(though don't quote me I use the ford specialty tool and don't
actually know the exact size)
The countershaft nut on a Mazda is 32mm.

That socket you arwe showing in the pic is for removing inner tie rods from a steering rack.

Shipping usually runs between $80-$90 each way and shipping weight is
Just under 100#.
 
Mutant Pony, you mean the lock-ring pliers? You can get that from much cheaper sources than Snap-On. I think mine's a PowerBuilt (i.e., POS).

Oh yeah, I've used them from a lot of different companies. I'm just the sucker that over paid. None of them work any better than the other, they all suck.

You can use the cresent wrench on the big nut but, only if you live in a trailer park and call your grampa "dad". LOL!!!
 
Actually no. th socket you need for the Mazda tailshaft nut is 55mm
(though don't quote me I use the ford specialty tool and don't
actually know the exact size)
The countershaft nut on a Mazda is 32mm.

That socket you arwe showing in the pic is for removing inner tie rods from a steering rack.

Shipping usually runs between $80-$90 each way and shipping weight is
Just under 100#.

damn! that means its completely useless to me. so how much does one of these go for? all it says is made in usa on it. no brand name of any kind.
 
where can you get the 'speciality' sockets?
 
I made mine from two sockets and a piece of pipe, Cut the drive end off the socket that fits the nut and weld it all together. I have one for the mitsu trannies, one for the TK trannies and one for the M5OD. I also made a tool to press off the rear bearing. I have one that fits all Ranger trannies, one that fits NV4500 2wd, And one that fits NV4500 four wheel drive.
 
I made mine from two sockets and a piece of pipe, Cut the drive end off the socket that fits the nut and weld it all together. I have one for the mitsu trannies, one for the TK trannies and one for the M5OD. I also made a tool to press off the rear bearing. I have one that fits all Ranger trannies, one that fits NV4500 2wd, And one that fits NV4500 four wheel drive.

good idea. do you have any pics of the tool to press off the rear bearing?

thanks,
 

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