mismatch between bellhousing and engine block

[whitebroncoii87]

I believe I have an 89 bellhousing and 88 engine block for 2.9, they bolt together fine but their contours don't match perfectly - this leaves a hole for I guess draft and dust to pass through, is this ok? is this because I need to get the sheet metal piece that goes in-between for an 88 engine? Thanks!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, you need the sheetmetal piece. It locates the starter in the proper position. I actually just learned that tidbit of info on this site a couple weeks ago.

 

[adsm08]

The metal plate is important, but it is not different from 88 to 89. None of the pieces you listed are different from 88 to 89.

Either you have a warped bell, or something stuck in between them. I'd back the trans off a bit and make sure you don't have and wires caught in there.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I read the question asking if he needed the sheetmetal piece as if he didn't have one installed.

 

[adsm08]

I read it as if he thinks there is a difference in that part between 88 and 89.

If you read some of this guy's other posts asking questions I believe that he is too careful to leave a part out, but is still at a low enough level of knowledge that he thinks parts change every year for no reason other than the year changed.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

In addition to the separator plate which is required for all RBV transmissions on automatics there is a little tin cover that seals up the bottom. It is so you can get at the nuts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate.

Manuals may have one too, I have never been around a manual in a Ranger.

 

[whitebroncoii87]

i double checked, the perimeters between my engine block and bellhousing definitely don't line up 100%. See picture, it's right by the distributor on top and passenger side where there is a gap (the top bolt head in picture is the distributor hold down). The bellhousing came from my old engine which is almost defintely 89 (no egr). My new engine is 88 according to the guy I bought from (it does have egr). The gap is not big (does not affect bolt pattern, bolts perfect) just wondering if I should plug that gap to prevent dust and elements getting into bellhousing - maybe using weather strips or something..

 

[enjr44]

Well, I don't know what I am looking at (and that's an understatement); but, it sure doesn't look right to me.

My first guess is that the years or model of the parts you have are not what you think or were told.

 

[whitebroncoii87]

well, are there years in the 80s where bellhousing don't match engine block? I probably have those years then..

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm not a mechanic but I think your OK without plugging the hole. I also don't see a problem with plugging it either, and if I did it I would use thermoplastic caulking. It seals well and can be peeled off fairly easily.

 

[Mac]

Something sure don't look right in that picture with that gap. What's it look like with the engine plate in place?
Dave

 

[whitebroncoii87]

Something sure don't look right in that picture with that gap. What's it look like with the engine plate in place?
Dave

in the picture it already has the engine plate in place, where the gap is is also where the engine plate two ends don't connect so the gap is clear through

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It could be the wrong plate?

 

[shane96ranger]

What trans is this? I know I've read there are some variations with the C5 bell.

 

[trail B2]

Is this a tranny your putting in now or one that's been in?Either I'm not seeing the picture right or your not butting up all the way between the motor and trans.If it has the A4LD and your putting it in and it's not quite going all the way the problem can be you don't have the third stage on the torque converter lined up.