Misfire issues!!

[Djurs02]

Hey guys,

This is my first post, I looked through what I could find on the forum in this subject and didn't find anything that really matched so don't kill me if this is a re-post, please.

I just bought an 88 4x4 with the 2.9l. When I test drove it it ran perfect, idled great, etc. on the drive home it started making what sounded like a lot of valve noise. Come to find out the distributor had turned because it was loose. I put the timing back and it ran ok for about 2 minutes of my test drive and then started doing the same thing. It was missing on 2,3,and 5. No codes.

Already done:
Cap & Rotor
Timing
Injectors-tested and re-manned
No vacuum leaks
Has spark on missing cylinders

Any help on where to go from here would be great so I'm not just throwing parts at this thing.

Thanks,
David

 

[Djurs02]

Also,
I forgot to mention that I replaced the ignition control module and fuel filter already. I also flushed the fuel rail when I had the injectors out.

 

[Andy D]

Check the injector connections

 

[Djurs02]

Check how? Node light test was already done, I have alternating power. And they are all plugged in if that's what you mean. Is there another way to make sure they are getting the correct voltage etc?

 

[adsm08]

If you already did a noid (not "node" "Noid" as in "solenoid") light test forget about the injectors for a moment.

Unplug the oxygen sensor and see if it will run ok. If it does, the O2 is your problem. If it doesn't pull the dis out and check the gear. Particularly look at the hole for the roll pin. If the pin is left out or breaks off (seen both) the gear is allowed to slip on the shaft and it allows for what can only be described as "randomly variable timing".

 

[Djurs02]

Ok...

So I got the valve noise and misfire stuff figured out. Now the bad news... The first actual drive I took since I bought it I got a bad rod knock and then the oil light came on. I am now officially in the market for a long block. If anyone has an idea of where to go in the Phoenix area I would greatly appreciate it, seems all the junk yards around here don't have anything and I'm on a budget..

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Is that thing running rich by chance? I have seen the miss fire's because over fueling due to the fuel regulator and the knock because it was hydroing up the compression and rattling because of fuel dillution in the oil. just a thought.

 

[Djurs02]

Doesn't seem to be.. Does that explain the random oil light as well?

 

[LIMA BEAN]

If your oil is dilluted with fuel you will lose OP. Pull the stick and smell and or if its over full. Then pull the vac line off the regulator and smell for fuel. That line goes to a vac tree that usually feeds your brake booster also. Hang tough for a day or so before you rip shit out, lotta good brains floating about TRS that will chime in.

 

[Djurs02]

You guys are awesome.. Thanks.

 

[Djurs02]

So how would I check to see undoubtably if it were running rich enough for this?

 

[GentleRF]

As was said earlier, smell the dipstick. Also check for overfill condition as well. I have had this happen on carbureted vehicles as well as fuel injected. Get fresh oil and filter then change. For this you don't need the best oil, just what is cheap. If the dipstick still smells of gas, then proceed to some of the other steps already mentioned.

Rick in East Bremerton

 

[Djurs02]

Status update so to speak...
The oil did smell like fuel so I drained it, flushed a quart thru and replaced the filter. Still the same problem. I unplugged the vacuum line from the FPR and the idle increased until I plugged the port on the intake, after that it ran the same.