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Mazda B4000 Pre-runner(ish)


fastback33

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Nov 28, 2010
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I have a 4wd 94 mazda B4000 that I wanted to turn into a sort of pre-runner....Only It needs to be able to handle snow and ice without any problems.

So I need your guys' input/opinions on this as im new here and to off-roading.
My plan is to put new wheels and tires on, crank up the torsion tubes and add wheel spacers. I want to keep the stock bed so don't want to tear that up by putting glass fenders on the rear, however the front i would be okay with glass fenders. I'm a college student so i'm broke and don't really have the resources to put a full on long arm kit on. I would like to keep any kind of expenses below say 1500-2000.... Keep in mind this is also my Daily Driver. So any kind of mods the truck would need to be runnable by that day or the next two or three, with an alignment at the end.

Any input and advice is greatly appreciated!!! :yahoo:
 
Don't put wheel spacers on... they screw with the camber of your wheels.
camber_angle.jpg


FWIW: Fiberglass stuff ain't cheap, so you really should just spend your money on something else. If you really want the front higher, rear end lower look of most pre-runners, you could crank the T-bars, and then take a leaf out of the rear, and they should give you some "backwards" rake. But this will also make your truck sag alot more if you haul something in the bed.

If you do decide to go with the fiberglass front fenders, you may want to read this too: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/FenderFlaring.html

I suggest instead of fiberglass fenders, you should get a soft tonneau cover. Keeps the bed of the truck clean, but it lets you use the full bed too.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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All wheel spacers do is push the wheel out, they dont change camber. So if the truck is properly aligned then it will have fine camber with wheel spacers
 
wheel spacers are fine if you get GOOD ones.. and as far as fiberglass fenders... expensive and if you don't have that much wheel travel- its a waste of money unless you wanna pay that much for the look of a prerunner. i'd cut the fenders intead. just trim them up. i've even saw a guy take his stock fenders and beat them out with a sledge and then smooth them out and trim them and they looked like fiberglass ones. but he's been doing it for years- i'd never attempt it unless i had extra fenders.
 
for one the 94 doesnt have torsion bars, it has twin traction beams. you can get coil spacers to lift the front around 2 inches for under a hundred bucks. any more lift than that and you probably need ttb drop brackets to get it alignable. wheel spacers wont change alignment at all just move the wheel out a little
 
for one the 94 doesnt have torsion bars, it has twin traction beams. you can get coil spacers to lift the front around 2 inches for under a hundred bucks. any more lift than that and you probably need ttb drop brackets to get it alignable. wheel spacers wont change alignment at all just move the wheel out a little

Wheel spacers put more leverage on a coil resulting in a lower ride height in turn more negative camber.

Unless, you put the spacers on and then align it..

Here's my 94, I built the beams and radius arms in 2 days or so. I have under a grand into the truck including the price of the truck.. but I am very conservative.

10-06-10_1832.jpg


now.jpg


It will soon be getting the new beams so I can put my one peice clip on it and paint it..


Fiberglass is cheap, light and looks great. My truck is light as a feather already and it will only get better once more of the stock body is removed..
 
Wheel spacers put more leverage on a coil resulting in a lower ride height in turn more negative camber.
After a couple minutes thinking about it I don't agree. I think if you moved the coil on the arm in or out from the pivot or shortened or lengthened the arm on the pivot side of the coil you would change the leverage on the coil. What the wheel spacers will do is put more leverage on the wheel bearings, wearing out the bearings quicker.

On the higher front/lower back;
You can do what 94xlt4.0 suggests.
Also a possibility, you could put in longer springs in the front, or f-150 springs, remove or put in smaller blocks at the rear springs. I know the blocks on my '91 STX were 3 1/2".
You could use the search button, I think r1hatman did the f-150 springs.
Good luck,

Richard
 
ANY increase from the coil out to the center of the contact patch of the tire will put more leverage on a coil.

I've built a 2 sets of Ranger extended beams for use with lift coils. Even going 3" over per side, I would only build 4.5" of lift into the beam for the use of 5.5" lift coils. Same concept..
 

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