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MAP/MAF sensor


rebel167us

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
83
City
Aberdeen, WA
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys, I've been having some rough trouble with my truck. It doesn't want to start unless I give it some gas and it'll hesitate and stall when I'm driving. Like, it'll run fine for abit and then it'll hesitate and sputter and die. Its getting old quick.:bawling:

Alot of people have told me its the MAP/MAF Sensor. Where is it Located?:icon_welder:

I've replaced the IAC, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and fuel filter.

I'm on a budget and I don't have alot of cash to spare to keep sinking into it.

What is the difference between the MAP and MAF sensor? How do I know which I need to replace? My truck isn't equipped with California Emissions.

A Picture or verbal refferance would be great. :)
 
I have a '87 2.9 and the Map is located on the firewall just above the evaporator housing. It has a small vacuum line running to it.

freedom5
 
Your MAF is connected to your air filter box and your intake pipe going to your throttle body. It measures the volume of air entering your engine.

SVT
 
Your MAF is connected to your air filter box and your intake pipe going to your throttle body. It measures the volume of air entering your engine.

SVT
87 2.9s dont have a maf sensor, just a map
 
Thanks guys! Okay, the problem is elsewhere apparently. I started the truck up, pulled the connector and it died. So, that tells me that it works

. What else could Possibly be the problem with it hesitating and running rough?
 
:icon_bounceblue:Could the TPS be faulty??? I pulled it off and cleaned it out, it had condensation in it. So, I figure it may be bad. Could the TPS be causing this hesitation, goofy Idle? :icon_bounceblue:
 
have you pulled codes yet? instructions are in tech library
 
CEL don't come on. Right now thats the least of my worries. :( Gotta' tow my truck home tonight cause' the Front transmission seal split and leaked tranny fluid all along the highway. 50miles from home, in the middle of nowhere. I'm hoping thats the only problem. It has been sitting for 5 years before I got it.
 
Clean all of the connectors under your hood and use some dielectric grease on them to protect from moisture. While your doing that disconnect the neg terminal to the battery for at least 1/2 an hour to reset the computer. You can also clean the MAF with electrical cleaner and clean the throttle body especially around the butterfly. Put in a new PCV if you dont know how old it is and make sure the breather filter is clean if applicable. Even if you unplug a sensor for a minute you need to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 an hour and run it 20 mins before doing any diagnostics. The water in the TPS could have sent a false value to the computer I would just dry it out and plug it back in after you reset the computer start it up and go from there. Fix the obvious first and allways change the PCV with spark plugs.
 
I have a 2000 ranger xlt.4.0l read all the specs for doing a 5.0 swap have an entire same year explorer, want to know can i use the 8.8in rear axle in place of my 7.5in .and what mods are needed to complete that swap. Thanks for your expertise...
 
I have a 2000 ranger xlt.4.0l read all the specs for doing a 5.0 swap have an entire same year explorer, want to know can i use the 8.8in rear axle in place of my 7.5in .and what mods are needed to complete that swap. Thanks for your expertise...
DIY saves money, gains knowledge, and creates wisdom on how to fix your own stuff.....
 
I have a 2000 ranger xlt.4.0l read all the specs for doing a 5.0 swap have an entire same year explorer, want to know can i use the 8.8in rear axle in place of my 7.5in .and what mods are needed to complete that swap. Thanks for your expertise...

This is an old thread with a question about a problem with a 2.9l engine. Placing a question at the bottom of this thread about an axle swap will yield very little help for you.
I would suggest searching/asking questions in the forums that have to do with axles
 

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