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Manual Swap


zukirider21

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
851
City
NJ
Vehicle Year
89
Transmission
Manual
alright well i've got my 302 and c6 in and driving, and its nice, but losing approximately SIXTY HORSEPOWER to a damn automatic trans is a real party pooper. and not having overdrive is simply brutal on the highway, even with 3.54's and 31's.

SO, its time for a T5 swap :yahoo:

keep in mind, i'm 2wd, so i shouldn't have any issues finding parts. however, im not using no mickey-mouse cable operated foxbody clutch setup. no deal.

so, in the next few weeks i'll be picking up a junkyard mustang 5.0 T5, and a 28 oz flywheel. and these guys right here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-61-612/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-61-604/

the only thing im not too sure about is the master.

i wanted to be slick and use a factory master, but im not sure if its gonna push enough fluid for the big slave. plus, im not too sure about going from those cheapo plastic lines to the fancy AN lines the slave uses. anyone know the specs for the factory unit (bore, stroke, etc).?

my other option would be a nice universal wilwood master. its available in a few different bores, and offers more than enough stroke (i'm probably going to need a pedal stop). here it is:

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?minorname=Compact Master Cylinder

the only issue is how it mounts.

http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/M0703.shtml

going by the pictures, it looks like the ranger master mounts on some kind of wacky angle, is that true? anyone know if they make some sort of fancy billet adapter to use a univeral master? cause i dont want to have to make complicated mounts...

lastly, how big of a job is it to get a factory ranger clutch pedal in there? can i pull the assembly at a junkyard and just bolt it in? or do i have to take apart the dash and crap?

sorry for such a long run on thread. any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Thanks for being a tester on this! If you get some info move it to the build thread! Good luck!
 
the older rangers do mount the master at a goofy angle,but that doesn't mean you have to mount an aftermarket one like that.simply find a spot beside the brake master and drill a hole through.the link position on the pedal will need to be modified,but this is simple fabrication.
 
the older rangers do mount the master at a goofy angle,but that doesn't mean you have to mount an aftermarket one like that.simply find a spot beside the brake master and drill a hole through.the link position on the pedal will need to be modified,but this is simple fabrication.

alright that's not too big of a deal i guess. think i can get away with using the stock pedal assembly and modifying it accordingly?
 
oh,and the factory clutch pedal simply replaces the pivot axle the auto set uses.
 
fairly easy with some basic fab skills.although you can get away without it,it's a good idea to make a reinforcement plate for where the master mounts to the firewall.
 
yeah i'll definitely be beefing up the firewall. but i think i ran into a problem- the crank. my c6 converter has a little tapered nub on it that centers in the crank, is there also room in there behind the tapered seat on the crank for a pilot bearing? its a stock ford crank, are they ALL machined to accept either an auto or manual trans?
 
new plan for the pedal- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-340-1290/

although, as it is now it looks like this whole clutch actuation ordeal is gonna cost me around $600 and thats just downright ridiculous. is there any cheaper alternative???

welcome to the wonderful world of custom fancy parts.it would probably cost me twice as much where i am,that's why i make do with whatever used stuff i can find-an f series master would do the job,just not be as pretty.and as for the crank,they are all machined to accept a pilot bearing.
 
man, you're tellin me haha. my 302 swap was sooo incredibly cheap, up until the last month when i had to start buying little things to finish it up. the project cost tripled in no time :bawling:

i hate to say it, but i might just end up using the cheapo fox cable clutch :annoyed:

i dont like em, but im unemployed at the moment, and i really wanna get this manual trans in before it gets cold out. i can screw around with fancy hydraulic stuff when i take everything back apart next year for my 408w :yahoo:

any idea where to start as far as rigging up a cable pedal goes? i cant seem to find any universal assemblies...
 
cable clutch is one thing i've never really tinkered with...went right from old school linkage into hydo setups.can't be that complicated,though.just look at how it's set up on the car,and build something similar.you just need a link on the end of the pedal shaft to pull the cable.
 
Zukirider, Fox mustangs are my livelyhood. Cable actuated pressure plates were, and still are what we all use. Big horsepower cars with softer than stock pedal feel are the norm.
The aftermarket is very strong when it comes to Foxbody cables and adjustable quardrants. You may need a longer cable due to your configuration. Other than that you should have no problem with a simple cable setup.
 
Last edited:
yeah it looks like a cable setup it is. $600 just to release a stupid clutch is plain retarded. the pedal looks easy enough. take a regular pedal and slap a quadrant thing on it. route the cable to it and be done with it hahahaha
 
sounds like you got a plan:icon_thumby:
 

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