manual hubs ?

[tac1015]

Ok look to see what it would take to put locking hubs on my 07, I know that they spin the shaft all the time but what would it take to put manual locking hubs on the front? Also wanted to level out the truck by changing out the front spindles for lifted spindles. I know you can just crank the bars , but don't want to get a stiff ride. Have seen kits on the net to do the entire suspension, but doe's anyone sell raised spindles separately , just the spindles?

 

[1996xlt]

There are no manual hubs for anything after 2001, however, you can convert the front hubs to the 98-00 style pulse vacuum hubs, but you'll need the hubs and front axle shafts. Then you can use the AVM hubs listed here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.shtml

Regarding the longer spindles, I'm not sure if they sell just the spindle you'd need to check with superlift (I think they're the only ones left that make a lift for the 98-12 SLA suspensions) but I'm pretty sure you couldn't use just the spindles without the drop brackets without the front suspension geometry being hosed up.

 

[bwiygul]

So i know it's been a while since this thread and i hope somebody or some people will chime in and let me know some good info. I just bought a 99 XLT 4.0 and during the test drive i couldn't find a good place to test the 4wd. I asked the owner and he said it did work. He had installed the Rugged Ridge hubs. i got home and it snowed a bit later and i got stuck in my driveway and took out part of my fence trying to get unstuck. So started the research.

From what i could figure it seemed like all indications were pointing to the shift motor. So i went and got a new one and installed it today and it wasn't the problem. I checked all the fuses and relay and all that. My lights are working as they should and there are 200k plus miles on the truck so the swapping of the motor wasn't a big deal and at least i'm starting off with something new. BUT, i still don't have 4wd. I did notice that it was going into 4Lo so i guess i have a 2Lo in reality.

I jacked it and pulled the Rugged Ridge hub and i see that there are some shavings and at first i thought the splines were excessively worn but now looking at picks there is a funnel effect. But what i'm figuring at this point after messing with the lockers is that they're not engaging.

Is there something that should be done grease wise or something in the hub to let the locker's splines engage the hub and the axle shaft? Did the PO do something or not do something that should have been done. I don't think it should be so difficult to get them to engage and lock up.

Lastly, is there a different hub/locker set up to put on? i don't mind having the auto locker set up if that is an option from one of the newer models? i don't want to go back to the vacuum set up but i'm not sure what my options are. Is it only rugged ridge or stock? is there a hub i can put on with a different locking mechanism? i don't mind wires if there's an electric version or something. Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[Badlevel2]

Manual Hub Conversion for 06 FX4 Level 2

I am sure this has been addressed on the forum but not clear on navigating the site.

I have an 06 FX4 Level 2 which has live front axles. Want to do the AVM conversion using the 98 Ranger Axles, hubs etc.

Can someone direct me to a process/parts list to do this conversion? I have seen it on another forum but before I pull the trigger I want to be certain of how to do it and what I need in the way of parts to pull it off.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[RonD]

I am sure this has been addressed on the forum but not clear on navigating the site.

I have an 06 FX4 Level 2 which has live front axles. Want to do the AVM conversion using the 98 Ranger Axles, hubs etc.

Can someone direct me to a process/parts list to do this conversion? I have seen it on another forum but before I pull the trigger I want to be certain of how to do it and what I need in the way of parts to pull it off.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Have a read here for axle swap: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/dana_35_sla.shtml

And here for the hub change: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.shtml

Gotta ask.........why add another part that can fail, well 2 parts that can fail, vs leaving it as is with 2 less failure points?

MPG difference is negligible, especially in a truck with higher ground clearance

 

[Badlevel2]

Excellent point and I am in the decision making mode right now.

The truck is bone stock and not lifted.

Even 1-2 MPG gain will be 5-10 % bump in fuel economy which can be significant with a 60 mile commute daily. I have experienced this gain in other vehicles.

I do not off road the truck. It is my daily transportation so I am less worried about breaking the modification than I am about the front drive line in perpetual motion and any wear implications there.

On my way to work last week when running over a bridge in 2wd I hit some ice 2 miles from home. The back end started to come around on me due to the front drive line not being activated and more importantly cold. Pushing that front drive line on slick roads had been problematic with this truck.

The only way to avoid this is to keep it locked in and I want the option to not have it in 4wd without this worry.

And most importantly, I like having my fronts spin without turning the whole mess 100% of the time. Just the thought of that makes me feel better.

If I make the change and don't like it the parts to take it back to stock will be on hand should I want to. I am a gear head and love working on my vehicles.

I really appreciate your input and help with this decision. If this was a trail rig I could certainly see the value of the live axle as a means to eliminate a weak link in the system. Thank you for the information.

 

[RonD]

Front axle and drive shaft spinning all the time is better IMO, I hardly ever use my 4WD, and have had to replace u-joints 2 more times on the front than rear.
Basically I am starting front axle dry each time I use it, I am now using 4WD once a month to prevent that also to keep shift motor working, it can go dead after not moving for 8 months(summer), you should have manual transfer case in Level II so that is not an issue.

You hit ice on rear wheel drive car or truck and that's what will happen, the energy in the front tires and wheels keep them rolling; axle, ring/pinion and driveshaft don't weight enough to effect anything IMO, it is just the effect of 70% of vehicle weight on front tires with rear wheel drive.

The tests on Live axle vs Unlocked showed .3MPG difference, so not nothing but..........
Switching to an electric rad fan would probably show better improvement

By lifted I mean a regular 4x4 pick up truck, their ride height makes for less MPG in general, skid plates help but still alot of cavities under a truck to catch air.
And pickups in general have the body aerodynamics of a brick, with a 1/2 brick sitting on top, lol.
And then we have tire size, skinny tires look like crap on a 4x4, but less road friction = better MPG, but also less road friction...............so more skidding on snow or ??, lol

Trucks, and then MPG and ride, are not words that go together in a positive manner


But adding manual hubs is certainly doable and an upgrade, I would also look at limited slip for that change over, much better than Open, but you can feel difference when steering with live axle, so manual hubs would eliminate that except in 4WD