M5OD Smell Trans Fluid In Cab

[Mhfco6]

Smell Trans Fluid / Water in Cab

I recently drained and re-filled the Trans fluid in my 91 ranger. Now I smell Trans fluid in the cab. I did this service 2-3 weeks ago. I noticed a small drip coming off the bottom of the case. I've heard the 3 rubber freeze plugs go bad, especially after a drain/fill. I also heard you can access these plugs on top of the transmission from inside the cab. Does the seat really need to come out to access the inspection plate? Or can I just take the shifter boots off? Thanks in advance.

 

[Mark_88]

I think you can access the plate without removing the seat if it's an extended cab...might be a bit tight with a standard cab...unless you want to hack the carpet...I was just sitting in a 91 ext cab yesterday and it didn't have any carpeting...I could see the entire access plate and could have removed it if I wanted to do so...

But replacing those three seals requires removing the plate...and I'm going by memory of the last time (2004) I had the plate off...I have my boot off right now and I can't see the plugs on my 88/96...

So I guess it depends on cab style...

 

[Mhfco6]

Thanks for the reply Mark. My truck is a standard cab and it has the rubber flooring.

 

[Mhfco6]

I'm not really sure what I'm looking for. I had the shifter boots off when I filled the Trans up with fresh fluid. I ran a hose down through the bottom of the cab at the shifter boots. I don't recall seeing any holes in the top of the Trans case. Wasn't really looking for them either. Can anyone chime in as to carpet /flooring removal? Does anyone have a pic of the freeze plugs? Thanks.

 

[Mark_88]

I was just out and pulled up my boot and bottom boot...the plugs (not freeze plugs btw) are not visible without removing the access plate.

Did you over fill the transmission by any chance? The top plug on the M5OD is the fill level and if, as some do, you fill it through the top plugs you can over fill if you don't remove the fill plug and watch to see when it starts coming out.

Overfilling the transmission will result in having the fluid smell inside the cab...as would not properly sealing the floor...which should be well sealed to prevent Carbon monoxide from entering the cab.

 

[Mhfco6]

It may be over filled. Thanks for the clarification for the name of the plugs. Thought it was strange when I read on another thread they were called the "freeze plugs".. I watched the fluid pour out of the fill hole before I closed it. I've always closed the fill hole as it starts to pour out, rather than wait for a trickle. I thought about checking the fluid level this way, but figured I would just jump into the worst case scenario [emoji23]. The floor is definitely not sealed properly. Sounds like my transmission is in the cab most days. The guy I got this truck from didn't take very good care of it. The floor is also pretty rusty with holes. It's been raining its butt off here the past few days and I haven't even driventhe truck, but the yellow cushion under the rubber floor is wet. Any ideas?

 

[Mark_88]

No problem...the names and terms for things have changed over the years and sometimes things get called something because it's easy...like the "solenoid" for the starter...which is what I called it for years because that's what someone said it was...but it is, technically, a relay...so...I still call it a solenoid sometimes...

I guess depending on how long you plan to keep it and what it will function as for you (DD, off road etc.) would determine how much you want to spend.

The transmission sound isn't going away any time soon and I think many Ranger owners are partially deaf due to poor sound insulation... What can be done to prevent poisoning yourself or others is consider repairing the floorboards either with the floor pans that are still available or with fiberglass patches or similar. Once the floor is repaired you can consider noise reduction materials that are available and maybe some proper carpeting...or just replace the rubber.

The flooring you have, if it is in good shape, can be placed over noise reduction/insulation materials as I've seen this done on a few vehicles.

I would give the underside a good inspection before throwing anything into it to make sure you are getting a good fix and not just a partial repair...unless time and money are issues. Check the firewall and frame especially...they can be problem areas but are also worth fixing if the truck is otherwise in good shape or has sentimental value.

 

[ranger1997]

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[Mhfco6]

Mark, the floor is pretty much trashed. I plan to buy new pans eventually and weld them in. I need to address the water leak first. Looks like a leaky windshield is a common occurrence. I pulled the carpet back and the firewall is soaked. The firewall looks fine, still shiny paint. The floor pans on the other hand are nothing but thin metal and rust holes. Would you guys say it's safe to say the windshield is leaky? Would it be possible to get it replaced and re-sealed to fix it?


Ranger1997, thanks a lot for the Trans pic.

 

[Mark_88]

I would say it is quite possible that the windshield is leaking and removing and resealing it might help fix the problem...

Saying any thing beyond that about the firewall or structural integrity of the truck would be stretching things...my first Ranger looked pretty good to me initially but as I learned what to look for and had the opportunity to remove the dash it became very clear that I could not have seen the mess it truly was in.

So...my suggestion would include laying up the truck for a week or so if possible and really tear into it...remove the dash and have a good close look at the inside of the firewall...however, you may be able to determine the condition by a good visual inspection of the engine bay side of things and looking into the water tray where the wipers sit...except they (Ford) made the opening into those tiny holes that don't show much unless you know how to view it...flashlight at night...but even with that it is not very clear.

If you don't have the luxury of being able to park the truck and tear it apart you might be able to do it in a good night with an all out effort...the area to look in is the inside corners up under the windshield...this is a major rust area on Rangers but is actually fixable...there is a thread on here on how to do it...very involved but worth the effort...because then your windshield won't leak...

It may not be bad on your truck...that would be nice...but only way to know is to check...and if that is good then resealing the windshield should do the truck trick...

I found some in my corners last year and managed to patch them and hopefully catch them, but the windshield on mine needs to be replaced and resealed too...

 

[tomw]

Before I pulled the windshield to re-seal it, I would remove the carpet or mat, leaving bare metal. Then using a hose, I'd drench the windshield to see if it is the leaker.
I had a leak that was caused by missing sealant between sandwiched sheet metal, right under the plenum cover at the base of the windshield. Found it by lying upside down under the dash and looking at the underside of the dash, at the base of the windshield. There be rust, and evidence of leakage, so I had a search to find the gap. Used a popsicle stick to paste some RTV onto the top of the 'sandwich' and all has been well. The jute padding under the rubber 'carpet' was soaked, and took several days to dry out, but I think I caught it before it ruined the floor pan. It was leaky from day one, and I didn't know until I realized how often the inside was fogged up while my car did not get that way. Inspected the carpet near the rollover fuel pump switch, and found it soaked, and so on.
tom

 

[Mhfco6]

Yea my padding under the rubber 'carpet' is soaked as well. This is all VERY good information.. None of which I wanted to hear, but it needs to be addressed. Both driver and passenger side floor pans have rust and holes in them. I pulled the carpet back last night and noticed a hole almost the size of my foot in the floor under the clutch pedal. I will check all the areas you all have addressed. What is the rollover fuel pump? If I have any questions or trouble finding any of the hard spots I'll give ya'll a holler. Thanks guys!

 

[tomw]

To prevent the fuel pump from continuing to run after a rollover accident, a switch was installed on the passenger side, directly above the top edge of the floor covering. Internally, there is a ball bearing sitting in between two 'hands' that are actually contacts to allow current to pass to the pump motor. If the truck rolls, the bearing drops out due to gravity, and may or may not fall back into place after uprighting the truck. There's a 'reset' button on top the moves the bits inside to allow or insure the ball falls back into place properly.
I used to come outside and see the window glass all fogged up after a rain, even immediately after purchase. Must have been a Friday build. It is old, so am I, but I trust it enough that I'd drive it to Alaska with no fear. And back, hopefully.
tom

 

[Mhfco6]

I hope you were just referring to a reference point on the the floor. Is the switch in jeopardy of failure due to the wet conditions? This is all very good info. Thanks.

 

[Mhfco6]

I've had the windshield covered with a tarp for 3 days. It's been raining non stop from this hurricane on the east coast. Floor is still very wet.