m50d - are they all hard to shift?

[cmattina]

I've had 3 rangers with an m5od. Well, my current is is an HD.

they've all had the occaisional hard shifting issue.(hard to get into first or reverse). Two of them have had well over 150 000 miles, but, my current only had about 40 000 miles, and the same thing.

My only other manual cars have been VW Golfs.

I should mention, but current one seems to have that little squeal from letting off the clutch, but again, this is occaision, and I THINK is temperature related - though it could be moisture related.

 

[adsm08]

The M5OD is a fairly old design, and is not the smoothest transmission in the world. I have often seen its shift quality described as being more appropriate to a lawn mower than a vehicle, but they are hard to kill and very little ever goes wrong beyond fluid leaks and failed hydraulics.

Hard getting into 1st and reverse can be a sign of weak hydraulics, not sure about your squeal.

 

[gw33gp]

I had a squeal at around 100K miles on my 02. Everything related to the clutch was still in good condition but the throw out bearing guide that rides on the transmission TO bearing support was worn and would vibrate when letting out on the clutch. This resulted in a squeal sound. I installed a complete new clutch kit and it is still going strong at almost 209K miles.

I do not find it hard to shift. When the truck was fairly new it started intermittently being hard to shift into 1st and progressively got worse. Since it was still under warranty, I took it to the dealer. They found the master cylinder was going bad. The first one they installed was also bad and had to order another one. It has been good since then.

I agree that hard shifting into 1st or reverse is most likely due to something in the hydraulics. If it is intermittent, it is probably the master cylinder.

 

[RonD]

I only use manual trans so several Rangers with M5ODs have come and gone, good transmission

Yes, hard getting into 1st or Reverse when stopped is a clutch issue 100%, not transmission related.

When stopped engine RPMs are, say 700rpm, warm idle, rear wheels are at 0 rpm, this means transmission is at 0 RPMs, there is no way to disconnect rear wheels from transmission, the clutch disconnects the Engine from Transmission.
So when you push in the clutch pedal to separate engine from transmission to put trans into 1st, the clutch disc, which was at 700 RPM, must slow down to 0 RPM to engage 1st gear which is at 0 RPM(rear wheel RPM)
Any, even slight, rubbing between flywheel and clutch disc will make it hard for the 4" synchro ring to slow down and stop the 10" clutch disc.
Same for Reverse, 700RPMs down to 0RPMs

While rear wheels are moving the RPM matching is easier, which is why shifting into 1st while still moving is often easier than shifting into 1st after you are stopped.

Clutch hydraulic system could have some air in it so you don't get full travel at the slave, so clutch disc isn't fully disengaged, it is rubbing.
On some systems the hydraulic hose from the Master to the slave gets soft so when you push the clutch pedal down the hose expands slightly so less travel at the slave and clutch disc rubs.

The noise when using the clutch could be Throw out bearing or pilot bearing, both parts of clutch system and need to change RPMs when clutch is used, so that is when they would usually make a noise.

 

[cmattina]

Thanks a lot guys!

Sounds like, at 40k miles I have either/both a hydraulic (master, slave or line) issue and and pilot or to bearing issue. I do believe in the longevity of the tranny.

Are either of those bearings an expensive job? Or, are both replaced with a clutch job? If I remove the tranny, what should I replace regardless for good measure?