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Lucas oil stabilizer


Black_Splash

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
342
Age
45
City
Huntingburg, IN
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
I'm thinking about using some of the Lucas oil stabilizer on my next oil change. I'm a little confused on what to use though. I was just going to get the regular stabilizer but the FAQ recommend using the synthetic oil stabilizer for 5W30. What to you guys recommend?
 
I used just regular oil stabilizer with four quarts of regular motor oil because of loss of oil pressure when fully warmed in the 2.9L. I've never had a problem with oil pressure since.
 
I've had good experiences using pretty well the whole Lucas line.

I think that the "regular" oil treatment will be just fine with conventional oil - at least that's what I use on occasion: 1 quart Lucas to 4 quarts conventional 5W30.
 
Just curious on why you guys put that into your engines? :icon_confused:

I have a unmaintained (well, it's maintained now) Tempo with 129K on the clock, it only gets 5 quarts of MC Synblend 10w-30. IMO, I figure if it makes noise with that, the engine is in need of some work or replacement...

Pete
 
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If the truck doesn't have any issues, then I wouldn't bother with the oil stabilizer. Modern oils do not need the help. If you go to www.bobistheoilguy.com you will see a gear test where the Lucas causes the oil to foam up.
Assuming your 1994 has a fair bit of miles, I would just run Valvoline Max Life with a Motorcraft filter and call it good.

*Edit* Oh well, I can't find that test there now, maybe it's still someplace, but I still wouldn't put an additive in. Not needed IMHO.
 
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I started with 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer. In 2002, I pretty much stopped using the truck (maybe 3000 a year) and have been using
10w30 synthetic, changing it and the filter once a year. I use the synthetic mostly for moisture resistance. I may be wrong, but I do not have the whitish deposits on the fill cap.
 
I started with 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer. In 2002, I pretty much stopped using the truck (maybe 3000 a year) and have been using
10w30 synthetic, changing it and the filter once a year. I use the synthetic mostly for moisture resistance. I may be wrong, but I do not have the whitish deposits on the fill cap.

Just remember that you need to change your oil more frequently in cold weather. Mainly due to increased condensation(going from really cold to hot). Water in oil is bad for any lubricant.

I also run Mobil 1 full synthetic in my rebuilt '87. I am very happy with the oil, and the trick is if you are going to use synthetics "economically" obviously you are not changing your oil every 3k miles!:icon_thumby:

Use the Best Oil, the best filter(either motorcraft or Mobile 1) and if you keep your engine well maintained you should be able to have extended oil changes with no problems.
 
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I will never use Lucas when I do an oil change because every time I used it in the past always resulted in my top end rapping very loudly for the first minute or so on a cold start. If you have to put something thicker in your crankcase then it better be because you're trying to quiet up a rod knock. Don't get me wrong the stuff works wonders when you're trying to cover up a problem and get a little extra life out of your vehicle.
 
guy at work said that is how i probly spun the beering in my 3.0...said it was to thick for this time of year....so i dont know....the trans stuff is awsome...made my dead trans last a little longer
 
I mix Lucas in every oil in my truck.
Took a whine out of my 260K 8.8, and prevents all other fluid issues.
 
They do sell Lucas oil at NAPA...that right there, should tell you somthing, you don't see NAPA pushing the Amsoil scam.

I wouldn't put anything but oil in a good motor, but if my lawnmoer starts smoking, I may try that Lucas stuff.
 
I put nearly 400,000 Km on my Tempo 2.3 and only ever did oil changes without additives...on my first Ranger I used Lucas and a few other additives and although I think it may have prolonged the engine life, you shouldn't really need anything else if you're not leaking oil or have other problems (like blow-by)...

In that case, you're probably just throwing a short-term fix at it and will need to have work done to correct the problem properly...
 

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