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Lube those drive shaft slip joints


gw33gp

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,794
City
Costa Mesa, CA
State - Country
CA - USA
Other
2004 Bronco Badlands
Vehicle Year
2002
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
1.5"
Tire Size
33"
I have been having a kind of a light thump or loose feel in my drive train under acceleration and less so during deceleration for several months. I've heard the drive shaft slip joint can cause this if it is in need of lube. This weekend I took the drive shaft out and loosened the boot so I could slide the slip joint apart for a re-lube. It really did not look or feel like it needed to be re-lubed but I cleaned off excess old lube and applied new lube, then put it back together. I was able to reuse the boot metal clamp but most people break it when removing and just use a heavy duty plastic zip tie.

I can't believe the difference that little bit of lube made. The drive train is as smooth as can be now and it also eliminated a sight clutch chatter I got occasionally. I thought the clutch chatter was due to axle wrap but apparently a slightly binding drive shaft slip joint can also cause it. Now when I let out on the clutch there is not even a hint of chatter. I feel like I am driving a new truck now even with 134,000 miles on it. I forgot how smooth the drive-train should be.

I figured out after taking the entire drive shaft out that I only needed to disconnect the rear drive shaft bolts after removing the front boot clamp. Then the drive shaft should just slide back and disconnect at the slip joint without having to remove the front drive shaft bolts. I think it is important to mark all parts of the drive shaft and connections before disassembly to make sure everything is reassembled in the same relative position.

This is a pretty small job for such a big result.
 
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Glad I saw this. The rear shaft is laying across the rear bumper. It has a bad rear u-joint. The others look pretty crusty, I'll make another set of match marks and re-grease the splines. Thanks, guys.
 
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Hmmm...might try this too...can't remember ever actually greasing the joints on my drive shaft...

I've got some bearing grease that should work in there...
 
Hmmm...might try this too...can't remember ever actually greasing the joints on my drive shaft...

I've got some bearing grease that should work in there...

Face it Mark. You only entered this thread because it said lube and joints.
 
That's a relief...I thought maybe I was getting attracted to shaft...I'd have to buy a whole new wardrobe...:)
 
ill have to add this to the to-do list. i have an occasional clunk and a little shutter letting out the clutch. shouldn't cost anything, just a little time.
 
Def need to do this I get a horrible clutch chatter... prob do to my clutch that smells like crap any time I drive in the sand... got the new one just need time between projects to install it.. Def gonna give this a shot...

Tractor supply sells "Offroad Grease" Ive been using it in my steering and such seems good.
 
Def need to do this I get a horrible clutch chatter... prob do to my clutch that smells like crap any time I drive in the sand... got the new one just need time between projects to install it.. Def gonna give this a shot...

Tractor supply sells "Offroad Grease" Ive been using it in my steering and such seems good.

Same here. Do you think a general lithium based grease would work?
 
I use synthetic grease on my poly bushings and marine waterproof grease on everything else. My u-joints are the HD non greasable joints so they're low maintanance (just dont last as long)
 
I use synthetic grease on my poly bushings and marine waterproof grease on everything else. My u-joints are the HD non greasable joints so they're low maintanance (just dont last as long)

This is why I like the Napa joints. They are the HD with a zerg.
 
I think a moly based grease would work well. I have access to aerospace type grease and used a Krytox grease with moly in it. So, it is basically a Teflon grease filled with moly. That should last a while.

Actually any good quality grease should work but some will last longer than others.
 

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