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LS Swapped Ranger


That looks good. Is there still room for the battery under the hood if you had wanted it there? We're there other viable exhaust options besides the backwards headers and u-turn thing you did? How is overall length and clearance between firewall and radiator?

I may have just become forced into an engine swap much earlier than I wanted. Of the 6 or 7 options I will consider, an LS swap is in the running. I work with a GM certified mechanic who would be a great help to me if I go that route. He's a good motorhead.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
What radiator is that?

It is just a universal aluminum racing radiator from Speedway Motors.
Its the biggest one I could fit between the frame rails and under the core support.
Not 100% sure but think its 19x24x2 or something like that.
Was only $150ish with free shipping.
I put 3000+ miles on the truck this last summer without any temperature issues and I don't even have any fans.
 
That looks good. Is there still room for the battery under the hood if you had wanted it there? We're there other viable exhaust options besides the backwards headers and u-turn thing you did? How is overall length and clearance between firewall and radiator?

I may have just become forced into an engine swap much earlier than I wanted. Of the 6 or 7 options I will consider, an LS swap is in the running. I work with a GM certified mechanic who would be a great help to me if I go that route. He's a good motorhead.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You could probably still fit the battery under the hood but it would be really close to the exhaust.
I tried 5 or 6 different manifolds and 4 different block hugger headers and nothing really worked in a way I was happy with.
I could get them to clear the frame but then steering shaft wouldn't work I never could get it all to clear at the same time so went with these turbo headers.
You could build some headers for a few hundred bucks just make sure to get the collectors on the outside of the frame rails.
Clearance front to back is fine I've got about 1/2'' between the heads and firewall and 5'' from pulleys to the radiator.
 
I thought the firewall looked close. The pictures make the front look close, also.

Thanks for the reply. If I end up doing this swap, I'll probably ask more questions.

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Got new wheels and tires gonna be running bigs and littles.
15x4 front with 1.75'' backspace and 15x8 rear with 4.5'' backspace.
Front tires are 165/80/15, Rear tires are 275/60/15
The front end will settle another inch or so once I drive forward a bit.

2smYDAA.jpg


fNFtr73.jpg
 
with minor rail clearancing....cut and weld sch 40 with v band on the truck manifolds with just a mig welder i have seen in this application.

the hookers i have seen as well...were the hookers too much money?



these below are the summit knock offs, have not seen or tried them yet....thinking of buying a set as it is inevitable i will use them. if i buy these i can send them to ya to test fit. for 200 bux i see them as ridiculously cost effective:dunno:


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9080


photo from summit race catalog...
 

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with minor rail clearancing....cut and weld sch 40 with v band on the truck manifolds with just a mig welder i have seen in this application.

the hookers i have seen as well...were the hookers too much money?



these below are the summit knock offs, have not seen or tried them yet....thinking of buying a set as it is inevitable i will use them. if i buy these i can send them to ya to test fit. for 200 bux i see them as ridiculously cost effective:dunno:


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9080


photo from summit race catalog...
Not needed mine fit and work I don't really wanna pull my stuff apart again just to see if they fit. I'm sure that those would fit with minor trimming but at the time I did this swap the E-Rod manifolds were $350ish and I wasn't gonna spend that much on something that might not work.
 
nice....:icon_thumby:



how are you tuning?



sounds stockish and its still pulling power saving that poor 4l60...do you shut off the rear brakes for tire heat? i hope so...its hard on the 60,s up against the brakes.

i almost used a 60 in my truck....but i have broke 3 4l80s so i am glad i skipped that. with a 2wd i might get away with it.






i figured you were going turbo with that setup....i would not want that much heat under the hood if i could help it. hell of a burrito cooker:D
 
nice....:icon_thumby:



how are you tuning?



sounds stockish and its still pulling power saving that poor 4l60...do you shut off the rear brakes for tire heat? i hope so...its hard on the 60,s up against the brakes.

i almost used a 60 in my truck....but i have broke 3 4l80s so i am glad i skipped that. with a 2wd i might get away with it.






i figured you were going turbo with that setup....i would not want that much heat under the hood if i could help it. hell of a burrito cooker:D

Right now it is a stock 5.3l so it has a stock tune that came on the pcm when I bought the harness and pcm from PSI Conversions.
I did buy HP Tuners but haven't used it or messed with it yet since I cant get the truck out of storage. The truck is getting a BTR Stage 4 truck cam and 3400 stall this spring whenever the snow melts.
Didn't mess with the rear brakes as far as line lock or anything. Just put new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and hardware. It spins tires no problem I have done many o burnouts no problems.
As far as heat under the hood its not bad truck runs at 165* and never goes over 195* even on really hot days. I don't even run a fan its all wired and ready for one but it never gets hot enough for them to come on. Not having inner fenders helps a lot. Put roughly 10,000 miles on it last year and beat on it every time it comes out and nothings broke.
 

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