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loud clicking noise while 4wd under load


that short clip is pretty similar to what it is doing, but its kind of hard to tell over a video.

let me ask this, say it ends up being the transfer case. is it possible to switch out the front drive shaft for a U-joint style front drive shaft?

couldnt this be done by either switching it out internally with an old style out-put shaft/yoke (not sure what they call it)

or just swap it out for an older transfer case?

is there a transfer-case that is more sought after for strength?
 
I have no idea about it...... No experance with em that new, sorry.

I guess its a slip yolk in the t-case????
If properly maintained the CV joint is a good joint,no vibration ect.

Your t-case IS NOT WEAK!!! Only chain failures ive seen was due to a lack of maintance, not because there weak by design.
There is a local guy that runs a homemade doubler using a chaindrive case. BBC and 47" LTB tires and hes never broke the t-case.


Todd S.
 
Yeap, the tcase in our trucks are nowhere near the weak link in the drive line... The cv front axles are terrible, the cv driveshaft (mainly because boots can be torn quite easily, then it's going to wear out super fast) the transmission, the 28 spline axles are moderate... Not to mention the engine that came out what, 14 years ago?

Borg Warner makes very good gear boxes... The Mazda m5od-r1hd on the other hand is JUNK!

Hello slave cylinders? Hello syncros? Where did you go?


Sent from somewhere naughty!
 
I spent most of the weekend trying to track down a clicking noise from the front end when in 4wd (98 ranger). At long last it turned out to be the CV joint on the front axle (not the u-joint). I dropped the shaft and took the CV joint apart. It was bone dry, even though the boot was fine. There were also deep ridges in the carrier. I just wanted to post because I know this sort of thing has been troubling a lot of owners.

The symptoms were a rattling/clicking noise in 4wd that was synchronous to the speed of the vehicle. It wouldn't make noise if the hubs were unlocked or if the hubs were locked and it was not in 4wd. in other words, there needed to be a load on the shaft (which makes it expand/contract and thus moving the CV bearings out of their grooves).

I hope this helps as I was able to find others on the web that had a similar problem, but nobody seemed to have a solution.

BTW, Rock auto has the replacement CV joint for about $90.

Tom
 

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