Lotsa cash spent and not making any more power??

[Frank The Tank]

You should be running a much taller stall, a trans-brake will make a world of difference, reverse manual valve body if you wanna have even more fun
, I would say go to a virtual engine builder (as advertised in Hot-Rod, lol) and try to get your carb, and timing closer to match your combo... another thing to think about is that oddly enough sometimes combinations just don't work together.....
Aluminum heads can be had very cheap for a FSB nowadays as well.

If you needed all this back pressure to make power from small pipes, would drag racers really be using cut-out headers? no we wouldn't.

Frank

 

[Ranger#1]

but u still do make more power with a collector way more power

 

[baddad457]

If you needed all this back pressure to make power from small pipes, would drag racers really be using cut-out headers? no we wouldn't.

Frank

Just because everyone does it, does that always make it so ? That's the kind of thinking that stagnates progress. The Nascar crowd runs an exhaust system and tailors it to the build. About 3/4 of the guys I see running a drag car are of the mindset that if it's loud, it must be faster.

 

[Frank The Tank]

Just because everyone does it, does that always make it so ? That's the kind of thinking that stagnates progress. The Nascar crowd runs an exhaust system and tailors it to the build. About 3/4 of the guys I see running a drag car are of the mindset that if it's loud, it must be faster.

HAHA, but your a tard, it must be loud so it's fast, sounds like ricers......... nah we do it for horse-power, and so we know when to shift over the car beside us.

Frank

 

[baddad457]

HAHA, but your a tard, it must be loud so it's fast, sounds like ricers......... nah we do it for horse-power, and so we know when to shift over the car beside us.

Frank

 

[Dan B.]

Mod......nail this thread if it's not going to go anywhere other than this.

For those that offered real help....baddad, etc....thanks! Trial and error is part of the process.

Frank.....tachs and shift lights were made for a reason....try one some time.

 

[Frank The Tank]

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/..._truck_qtp_electric_exhaust_cutout/index.html
hope this article helps.
Frank

 

[847b]

It looks as though the cam/intake/stall do not match well with the heads/exhaust/carb package.

The cam/intake/stall would support a healthy low to midrange RPM engine with good driveability and torque characteristics.

The heads/exhaust/carb package would support an engine spinning likely 6000+ RPM nicely.

Looking at the 60' times, it is evident the Ranger does not launch hard. General (very GENERAL) rule of thumb is every .1 sec decrease in 60' time equals .5 sec lower et. To decrease your et down to mid 11's, it will need a 60' of roughly 1.7 seconds.

The camshaft is really the heart and soul of an engine, dictating where power is going to be. Without seeing the specs of your cam, its not possible to tell if it is adequate or not. Duration around 235 @ .050" probably a good starting number, better call Crane or another cam company to be sure though.

If the cam is aggressive enough, next would be a higher stall converter and manifold.
Stall between 3000-3500 and a manifold RPM Air-Gap (or equivalent). If you are less concerned with street driveability then even a Victor Jr. or equivalent.

 

[347 Ranger]

What has is happening to you is tipical of what goes on with guys that get the idea that if you just ad parts the car will be faster . First you need a combination that works then you need get all you can from what you have . Tuning is a major part of going fast . I can see a bunch of things that are not ideal with your set up but a 2.20 60' is baaaad. My 82 mustang runs 12.0 at 112mph with a 1.60 60ft. My sons Mustang II runs 13.70 at 103 mph with a 1.90 60 foot on street tires. Both these cars run C4 trannys. I us a 4.62 gear with 10.5x285 slicks and a 4500 stall, my son Has a 4.11 gear with a
245-50-14 street tire that is 23.5 " tall. and a 3000 stall converter. If you want to get all you can from what you have you will need to do a bunch of test and tune . I started with a 13.1 second car on saterday morning, by the time i left the track on sunday I ran a best of 11.93 by tuning the carb iginition timing and chassies adjustments . The fast part is a little more than just buying parts.

 

[847b]

Do keep in mind mismatched parts will make it more difficult to tune (jetting wise mostly) and may have a smaller window for optimum performance.

 

[v8nick]

What exactly are you cam specs? you may not have enough stall for the cam. Lift is not the only thing to look at. You need to pay close attention to the duration as well. If you are running a cam with a lot of duration then a 2200 stall isn't going to do you much good and you may need new gears as well.

 

[tpking]

you need ATLEAST a 3500 stall

 

[Dan B.]

Guys....thanks for the info. Currently making the moves to get all the parts matched up for a better set up. Already got an Air Gap. Stall convertor was next on the list until the tranny started acting up. I lost third gear...drained everything and discovered BIG time metal in the filter and pan. So I yanked the C4 and saving up for a Performance Automatic built C4. In the meantime I'm gonna pull the motor and get the truck prepped for paint.