Lotsa cash spent and not making any more power??


You're confusing the vacuum advance with the vac. secondary. The vac advance hose from the distributor plugs into the port on the pass side of the main metering block. That's not the vacuum secondary. The vacuum secondary pod takes the vacuum from inside the throttle body, under the venturis. Also when replacing the sec spring, it's also possible to get the vacuum diaphram out of place, blocking the vacuum port in the pod.

My distributor is a mechanical advance. But thanks for the info...I forgot about that.

So then what is the port on the bottom, front that is angled to the pass side?
 
Hang a vacuum gage on your rear view mirror & put a temporary t-fitting in the vacuum lines you're using........test each vacumm line independantly by making a run with the car to see if the vacuum source to each major component is pulling the right amount of vacuum to operate the component properly thru the power range (on the road)...I read something about 4-barrel vacuum operated secondaries not working properly because of a poor vacuum source at higher rpms...Also was told that removing 100 lbs. from vehicle total weight equals 1 hp gain in usable power (you're not MAKING an extra 1 hp--you are getting more power from it)...
 
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.I read something about 4-barrel vacuum operated secondaries not working properly because of a poor vacuum source at higher rpms....

The vacuum secondary pod gets it's vacuum internally.
 
My distributor is a mechanical advance. But thanks for the info...I forgot about that.

So then what is the port on the bottom, front that is angled to the pass side?

It's not a dedicated port, it can be used for anything requiring a vacuum source. The rear large port is for a PCV system. If you're not running a PCV system and your distributor's a mech advance, you can plug all the vacuum ports.
 
The vacuum secondary pod gets it's vacuum internally.

:icon_surprised:

Baddad.....Thanks for the correction....I forgot what caused the (infernal) vacuum loss to the secondaries......I need to blame it on the V.A.meds, but I starting to think stupidity might also have something to do with getting my info wrong...(walking away with head down & tail between legs).......

:icon_rofl:
 
In your first post you mentioned his 3.90 gearing to your 3.55 with 28 vs. 26 inch tires. It doesnt mean its a wash. His 28 has 2 inches more sidewall to squat and grab with and you would be surprised how much more torque you can get to the ground with higher gears. Im bettin if you ran 3.93 or higher you would see a second or two better on your times. Also "close to mid-13's is still not mid thirteens. It means your still in the high thirteens. meaning that weather altitude pressure all that stuff can affect your times negatively or positively. Have you ever dynoed your truck to get a accurate representation of how much power your making? Divide your truck weight by your horsepower and it will give you an accurate idea of your power to weight ratio. My old probe has rediculously heavy with little power and my power to weight ratio was not kool. I have to drop 17 lbs for the equivalent of gaining 1 hp. But with your setup its prolly worth a couple tenths.
 
...Also was told that removing 100 lbs. from vehicle total weight equals 1 hp gain in usable power (you're not MAKING an extra 1 hp--you are getting more power from it)...

EDIT: got to thinkin......I probably shoulda said....removing 100 lbs. from the vehicle will Reduce your E.T. by 0.1 sec.

S.N.M. (Special Needs Member)
 
It's been years since I ran the 1/4, but things sound funny.

What is the initial timing ?
Is this a Roller Cam ?
What is your RPM thorough the lights ?
Have you determine the correct RPM/Tire OD/Gear Ratio yet ?
Have you dyno'd the engine; RPM/HP max/Torque max ?

Once you have determine what your RPM through the lights "should be" then you can determine the correct Tire OD/Gear Ratio.
Also, I have not seen a Ford's run well with 3" exhaust, 2.5 maybe with the 351 but depending on the flow rate/rpm of the engine you will need to adjust that too.

These are older opinions and things change but get to the basics first then move on and down the ET...
 
What is the initial timing ??

30 degrees...already discovered this is way low and needs bumped to 38...ore more.

Is this a Roller Cam ??

No.

What is your RPM thorough the lights ??

4200-ish.

Have you determine the correct RPM/Tire OD/Gear Ratio yet ??

Yes and No. 4.10's and the 26" tires will run out the back door at 6200rpm's. So I know I need that...but really like the cruisability of the 3.55's. If I could get into the 12's on motor alone with the 3.55's then I'd be happy.

Have you dyno'd the engine; RPM/HP max/Torque max ?

No. But I am looking into getting the Ranger on the rollers at a Wyotech campus just down the road.
 
30 degrees is the total, right, what about at idling ?

OK on not a roller, shouldn't make a lot of difference just wondering... thinking.

4200 rpms through the lights is low you need to get the rpms up around 5800 to 6200.
What are the rpm specs on the cam ?

Once you dyno the engine and determine what the max rpm and torque are, then you can reasonable determine the gear ratio/tire diameter to achieve the trap times you want.
Remember torque gets you started and horse power pulls you through; what does that mean to you, find out the Max Torque RPM and thats where you want to launch at or as close to it as you dare go and the max HP rpm or higher or close, is where you need to be when running the lights.
If you really like the 3.55s you will need to go with a smaller tire on the track but (IMHO) a 26" tire is small already, you need to get the r's up.

Again, remember that these are my humble opinions and are not absolutes but only suggestions so pls talk to your race mechanic or other engine/drag race knowledgeable person.

Luck to you.
 
i was running short on time so did not read all of these, so sorry if someone has hit on this already. but one thing that can be a MAJOR facter is rotating weight compared to dead weight. rims, tires, pressure plate/flywheel. 100# rotating weight is harder to move than 100# dead weight. it has been 25 years since i was into all this, but look into it. it can make a big differance. good luck
 
:icon_surprised:

Baddad.....Thanks for the correction....I forgot what caused the (infernal) vacuum loss to the secondaries......I need to blame it on the V.A.meds, but I starting to think stupidity might also have something to do with getting my info wrong...(walking away with head down & tail between legs).......

:icon_rofl:

:D Don't flog yourself to bad, you just suffer from the same malady I do occasionally.................C.R.S. (Can't Remember Sheite):icon_rofl:
 

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