Looking for guidance on traction aids

[LonesomeSTX]

I want it install lockers in my truck, but not for serious off road use. I need a rear locker that is very street friendly. We use the truck for hauling heavy loads down the interstate so I would prefer something that would make improvements in that area. The reason I want to lock both the front and rear is because we some times traverse down roads that require it. We barely make it through unlocked and unloaded so imagine the complication a heavy trailer adds to the problem. Then when it rains, these roads turn into a sandy and muddy challenge so there is no traveling down them with the truck like it is now. I would prefer on demand lockers but no one I have researched makes them for a Sterling 10 ¼. So, what do you all suggest? What lockers are out there that would work with my truck and fit our needs?

 

[LonesomeSTX]

I forgot to mention something. For the D60 up front, I want a decent middle of the road kind of locker. I want something that will perform in the above mentioned environments, but I do not think I require a high dollar top of the line locker

 

[Will]

One problem right off the bat with towing heavy with a locker is that you can end up with 100% of the torque on one axle shaft. For instance, any time you are making a slow turn all the torque is going to one shaft and the tire isn't going to spin with the tongue weight on it. An automatic locker (Deroit No-Spin, Powertrax Lock Right etc)completely unlocks one shaft when the outside tire is being ground-driven at a greater speed. You get in a spot when the trailer tires are twisted up and maybe you have to make a hard turn into traffic--I dunno, there's any number of situations where it would be nice to have a real differential in the back. If you are going to install one, a selectable is better for a truck with a heavy trailer in my opinion. Or a limited slip.

On the front, I wouldn't install a standard locker in a tow vehicle. The front tires are constantly changing speed and the steering wheel often feels disconnected from the front and doing its own thing. I guess in your case I would put the selectable on the front and a limited slip on the rear if you can't find a selectable. Having a selectable engaged is much more predictable than an automatic locker on the front. The rear has the trailer on it so there's going to be a lot of traction anyway.

You may know this but I'll say it anyway. An open differential provides completely equal traction to each side. If one side spins and is making zero traction, the other side has to stop moving in order for it to provide zero traction. If neither side is spinning, they are both providing the same traction. When you drop the trailer on it, that all goes toward rear traction. Since you are going to be in 4wd, with a locked front axle both fronts have to spin before a rear is allowed to go to zero traction--if that makes sense. With the front open, only one front has to spin before a rear is allowed to go to zero traction. Just locking the front axle is going to make a huge, huge difference. I noticed this phenomena years ago when I locked the rear of my Ranger. Locking one axle greatly helps the other axle.

For the highway I think at least a limited slip in the rear. Going up a hill and hitting an ice patch on one side and suddenly you aren't in control at all anymore. A limited slip will help keep some power going to the ground and give you time to think and get the 4x4 lever pushed. That same ice patch could snap the axle with an automatic locker because it's going to suddenly load the axle with 100%. I have never experienced this, but I have heard of it. I believe a member from Nebraska (np205 was it?) broke a 14-bolt with a Detroit like this. It's been some years so I am foggy on details.

 

[Will]

Looks like ARB makes an air locker for your 10.25.

http://dedq15.mindfly.com/uploads/PDF/onlineManualsGuides/airLockerAppsUSA.pdf

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Ive heard of people doing the same thing with open diffs though to.

Getting the tires spinning and then catching traction real fast iwht a load.

Quickest way to bust a shaft of shred spider gears.

later,
Dustin

 

[Will]

That's true. I busted a 9" that way. But what I'm talking about is a little different. You head up a hill with an automatic locker using quite a bit of power and a sheet of glare ice coming from a gravel driveway draining into the road goes under the right rear. It suddenly has no traction and the whole load is on the other axle. What you are saying is that it spins like mad, hits the dry stuff and snaps the shaft--which I had happen. A limited slip is the best middle ground because it won't give all the speed to the free tire, and won't load up the one with grip.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Yup, snapping a shaft is usually the most common way to kill a detroit. I'll give the same advise and install a L/S rear and a selectable front locker. What you save in the rear will let you afford the front locker, and it will make a huge difference for you.

I found the front locker helped me turn offroad where an open front diff just pushed and slid. I just stop-point-giv'r, and it pulls the front end around to where I want to go.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

Very good read. A selectable is what I want becuase I will only need it when I have to haul on sandy or muddy roads. I did not think of the ice patch thing though. I think I will look into a limtied slip for that reason.

 

[AllanD]

Losing traction on ONE side with an open diff is a loss of traction/thrust and
less sudden loss of momentum

Losing traction with ANY traction aiding differential and the effect is proportional
to the aid to traction that the differential provides...

What happend when a tire loses traction isn't obvious to the first time thinker
or to the second time you think it through, but when a tire loses traction it loses traction in BOTH directions, laterally as well as linearly.

So if you have a traction aiding differential and the "other" wheel
doesn't lose traction you have a sudden assymetrical thrust, it's
like one engine shutting off on a twin engine aircraft... you get a
power induced yaw.

That is why an open differential will spin a tire and stop
while a limited slip (or locker) will spin a tire and yaw to
one side or the other, but if you don't lift will atleast
keep you moving...

Jokes aside I have 4x4 for one serious reason: Snow.

I look at going "mudding" the way most of you would look
towards being initiated (involuntarily) into anal sex.

Going 4wheeling "just to see what breaks" is about as appealing to
me as borrowing money from a loan shark and NOT paying it back
just to find out what a broken leg feels like.

I usually have a better reason for going somewhere.

That beng said, if you are going somewhere you NEED to go
don't jerk around with half measures, because if your choice isn't
"good enough", fixing it wherever it happens to break isn't going to
be fun and failing that getting winched out by a tow truck
(presuming one can get to you) isn't going to be cheap.

I've never actually gotten stuck offroad with my Ranger
even with it's (at the moment) clapped out limited slip and open front
even with the shitty tires I currently have on it...Goodyear RT-S

I'm about to regear my truck and in that process the D35 up front is getting a Dana TracLok (limited slip) and a LockRight in the back, even though my truck is used
mostly as a "going to the junkyard" and as it says in my avatar "roadtrip warrior"
I'd rather have more capability than I need than find out the hard way I don't have enough....

If you are running up a muddy two track dragging a loaded trailer don't try
to "cheap out" because it likely will bite you on the ass.
I'm presuming this is an F250 class truck? I'd think real hard about
a real Detroit locker for the rear but a limited slip will do the job up front.

It's possible the towing bill will equal the cost of the Detroit if you are
in "the wrong spot" when you finally do get stuck.

Remember the old saying: "4x4 just means you are further from help
when you finally do get stuck"?

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[LonesomeSTX]

It is an F350 dually. I was not planning on getting the cheapest, just the best for my application. If this was an off road truck the choices would be a bit easier. But being since I am looking for something that will help me haul, I am not sure which way to go.

 

[Will]

ARB on both ends is the way to go if money isn't an obstacle then.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

That was my original thought, but I wanted to ask around a bit first. What are soem of the issues with ARB? They have to have at least a few.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I know the air lines like to blow on them.

later,
Dustin

 

[Will]

I would go ask about them in the axles forum because I know at least 2 members that have them, or had them.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

I do not plan to use the air lines that comes with the unit. So that might be avoided.

That is a good idea. I think I will pop in there and ask.