Looking for a comparison of the different V8 “kits”

[wade]

Then that's as far as we need to go. There's a guy on RPS that calls himself "MacGuyiver" (spelling?)... ...he does the same type of work, drives a V8 Ranger - go figure.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

That is funny. Maybe I will run into him some time. If I have not already...

 

[baddad457]

if you grind the 3 rivets on each side of the cross member you can move it where you want and drill a couple new holes takes an hour max

There's no need to do that using the stock Mustang 'vert mounts. You can move it as far back as the heads touching the firewall and the mounts still are on the crossmember.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

I plan to use an electric fan. So does it really matter if I do no tmove the engine back?

 

[baddad457]

There's two main reasons for moving the motor back as far as possible, one is to get as much weight toward the rear as possible and second to create as much room forward of the motor to allow room for the radiator to accessory clearance. If you go with an Explorer/Mountaineer set or the 88-93 T-Bird/ 94-95 Stang accessory drives, you're way ahead of the game in this regard.

 

[baddad457]

LonesomeSTX...............My son is over there in the sandbox too, if you run into a Marine CPL working on LAV's tell him "hey" for me.

 

[wade]

You'll want the engine set back as far as possible because the Front Engine Accessory Drive (FEAD) and your radiator setup will be snug. This is where your searching, reading, and planning will pay off.

Concerning the removal of the "hot-rivets".
You might consider removing the ones for the tranny crossmember to locate the tranny mount where it needs to be. There are other options, but rivet removal to relocate the tranny crossmember is viable.

The ones for the radius arm crossmember can be removed, and replaced with bolts, so that the radius arm crossmember can be removed. This is particularly handy if you install a large automatic tranny (like an AOD). An AOD will not remove very well between the small tunnel and the crossmember. You can force it, but its a PITA. Things forced tend to get broken. Then, you get to force it back in! Which leaves you with the only other option of pulling the engine and tranny together out of the "big hole"! Note: If you decide to use an AOD, modify the crossmember for removal. Ford uses 4 "hot-rivets" (2 on each side) going through the sides of the frame, AND 4 threaded fasteners (2 on each side) going through the top of the frame. "Hot-riveted" on the sides and bolted on the top! DUH!? Must have been designed by 2 separate engineers in different offices with no phones!

The only other "hot-rivet" to consider... If you do a body lift, you may need to relocate the one that secures the parking brake cable bracket to the frame. I think was "hot-riveted", too.

Another Note: Drilling, Grinding, Beating. Requires the proper tools. A 4" electric grinder is good - If you have it - air is good. (A Cold Chisel jus' ain't gonna' hack it!) They are hard and tight by design. When replacing "hot-rivets", always use (at least) Grade 8 bolts. And I recommend Nylock nuts. This is a task thats much easier done (planned) with nothing in the "big hole", engine and tranny removed. Be prepared to spend more than an hour, but its time well spent.

"Hot-Rivets" is subject matter for a topic in the Technical Library > Custom Fabrication. I'd be willing to write it up, if only a moderator would PM me and tell me how to make it happen.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

I have heard that Explorer drive assemblies is what I want. But, will that bolt to that 96 351?

I do not see a lot of Marines around here. But when I travel I do. So I will keep an aye out.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

It would seem everything you mentioned there is well with in my skill level. I also have all the correct tools. I have had to remove many rivets in years past. I have done a lot of susension work to Rangers over the years. I really hate dealing with those things.

 

[baddad457]

I have heard that Explorer drive assemblies is what I want. But, will that bolt to that 96 351?

I do not see a lot of Marines around here. But when I travel I do. So I will keep an aye out.

The Explorer parts will bolt on, but you'll have to do some mods to make it all work on a 351W. The year of the 351W makes no difference in that regard. You'll have to use the Explorer timing cover, these were also used on the 88-93 T-Bird/Cougar 5.0 and the 94-95 Stang 5.0, but with a little different water pump. And the Explorer's balancer is wrong for a 351W, being a 50 oz/in unit where the 351's were all 28's. Also not sure what in the accessory bracket stuff will need (if any) mods to correct for the 351's taller deck.

 

[LonesomeSTX]

It is always something. The simple fact that I am using a 351 is going to make this harder. I do have every intension of installing a bady lift. So hopefully that should take care of the hieght issue.

 

[red85]

The 351 doesn't add that many headaches. All the FEAD stuff will bolt on. I'd recommend going with a Griffin rad and a pair of electric fans. You can make it look "factory" with a little gloss black paint. Make sure you get the right flexplate and balancer as well. As for your trans mount, get a solid type from a 93-97 Ranger (not the type with the 2 donuts of rubber) and drill a few holes. I did my 85 V8 Ranger that way. As for headers, a set of Hedman 88400's will work fine. I'd recommend getting a set of V8 Explorer headers as they will fit the best in there though they are a little restrictive. You will need to modify the steering shaft as well. A center section out of an Aerostar van will work great here. Look for a 90* oil filter relocation kit as it will interfere with the steering box with any other kind. I used Trans Dapt for this and my mounts (#9536 mounts). I could have gotten away with the Mustang convertible mounts, but the speed shop had these in stock and cheap. Definitely get the entire engine harness, computer and fuel system from your donor as well. Plug and play is always better than guess and splice LOL

 

[LonesomeSTX]

Thanks. That will go in my notes. I agree, I would much rather plug the doners harness in that peice one together. My wifes truck is getting a 5.9 Cummins, so I can take the whole harnees out.