Looking for a 2.9L Mechanic in Atlanta Area

[Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto]

Hey folks, I recently picked up an ’86 Ranger XLT 2WD Automatic with the 2.9L Cologne V6. The previous owner was an auto shop teacher who bought it from a friend that had it stored under cover for 18 years. He replaced a ton of parts:

• Water pump, hoses, belts
• Brake lines, shoes, pads, calipers
• Coolant, trans fluid, diff fluid
• Fuel tank and pump (installed an in-tank pump from a ’92 Mustang)
• Valve cover gaskets
• Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor module

He didn’t touch the internals—said the heads and rockers looked clean when doing the valve covers. Running Valvoline 10W-40 high mileage.

Current issues:

• Crackling/static noise behind the instrument panel, especially over 15mph. Speedometer needle bounces—could that cause noise?
• Occasional clicking noise once warm.
• After filling the tank, gas briefly leaked from two spots—hasn’t happened again.
• After 20 mins of highway driving, it died at restart with ¼ tank showing. Added 2 gallons and it started fine. Still shows ¼ tank.

Otherwise, it drives great. Trans cooler installed, shifts well, and the thermostat stays around the “M” in NORM.

Looking for a shop or mechanic in the Atlanta area who knows these engines well. Any recommendations?

 

[Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto]

Hey folks, I recently picked up an ’86 Ranger XLT 2WD Automatic with the 2.9L Cologne V6. The previous owner was an auto shop teacher who bought it from a friend that had it stored under cover for 18 years. He replaced a ton of parts:

• Water pump, hoses, belts
• Brake lines, shoes, pads, calipers
• Coolant, trans fluid, diff fluid
• Fuel tank and pump (installed an in-tank pump from a ’92 Mustang)
• Valve cover gaskets
• Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor module

He didn’t touch the internals—said the heads and rockers looked clean when doing the valve covers. Running Valvoline 10W-40 high mileage.

Current issues:

• Crackling/static noise behind the instrument panel, especially over 15mph. Speedometer needle bounces—could that cause noise?
• Occasional clicking noise once warm.
• After filling the tank, gas briefly leaked from two spots—hasn’t happened again.
• After 20 mins of highway driving, it died at restart with ¼ tank showing. Added 2 gallons and it started fine. Still shows ¼ tank.

Otherwise, it drives great. Trans cooler installed, shifts well, and the thermostat stays around the “M” in NORM.

Looking for a shop or mechanic in the Atlanta area who knows these engines well. Any recommendations?

Pictures of the gas leak attached. At the pump, after it filled up and pump stopped, it just plopped out in two spots by the tank. Maybe 8-12 oz and then stopped. No visible leaks since.

 

[Curious Hound]

Current issues:

• Crackling/static noise behind the instrument panel, especially over 15mph. Speedometer needle bounces—could that cause noise?
• Occasional clicking noise once warm.
• After filling the tank, gas briefly leaked from two spots—hasn’t happened again.
• After 20 mins of highway driving, it died at restart with ¼ tank showing. Added 2 gallons and it started fine. Still shows ¼ tank.

1. Speedometer cable may need lubrication or replacement. Drive gear at transmission end of the cable could be worn. Or worn out speedometer (not nearly as likely)

2. Don't let it get warm on those occasions. Seriously, description is too vague to work from. Could be anything from a hidden mechanical clock ticking to valve lifters, zip-tie on drive shaft, etc.

3.fuel tank filler hose is probably old and cracked where it bends and attaches to the tank. Replace hose or just never fill past 3/4 tank.

4. Ain't got no gas in it. Well, level sender may be showing its age. What does it read when you fill it? Does it seem to track normally between full and 1/4 tank? That's something you'll jist have to play with and eithrr learn how it acts and get used to it. Or, lift the bed, take the sender out and fix or replace it if it's consistently not reading properly.

As for a mechanic in Atlanta, maybe @Rick W knowssomeone.

 

[Rick W]

Peter, I have an 87 short cab short bed 2.9 with a five speed. About 310,000 miles. Rattles, but still runs good. I’m an old retired fart and I’m not looking for any mechanical work, but I’m a halfway decent shade tree.

(A) Roughly where are you in Atlanta? I’m up in Dunwoody by Peachtree industrial and Tilly Mill Rd. just outside the perimeter. There’s a NAPA shop near me, but it’s very pricey. I’m thinking maybe come by and let’s just look at it together before you go anywhere.

(B) What’s the cosmetic condition of the truck? How is the interior? Please post a half dozen pictures of the outside of the truck, and maybe 4-5 from under the hood, and a couple of the interior and the instrument panel.

(C). How many miles on it?

Absolutely the first thing I would tackle is the fuel pump and the gas leak. You don’t want to turn into a Roman candle going down the road! Replacing the entire fill assembly is not too expensive. It could solve a lot of “old truck “ problems.

Basically, it’s a fat rubber hose that goes from the gas door assembly down to the top of the tank. There is a second harder plastic line that actually allows the fuel to go from the gas door almost all the way to the bottom of the tank. It runs down to the bottom of the tank, so you don’t get static electricity with the gas dripping off the end when filling it. You have to remove the bed to replace it, but removing the bed is actually very easy on those trucks. I’ve done it several times all by myself with my worn out body.

I don’t know anything about the Mustang fuel pump, but the Ranger pump has a feed and a return. If the return is leaking, it should have gas dripping all the time, and that is a horrendous safety problem.

You also have to have the bed off to replace that gas pump. The gas pump includes the sending unit for the fuel gauge. I don’t know what your finances are, but for $45 for both of those parts it can save you an awful lot of headaches as you go down the road.

I’ve also taken the dashboard out on mine. Getting the bezel and the padded dash and the front of the instrument panel off is a breeze. You have to be infinitely more careful actually pulling out the instrument cluster. It’s a pain in the butt, sometimes disconnecting the speedometer cable. Once you get it out, it’s very easy to fix everything and it goes back in a lot smoother.

Like I said, send some more information and pictures, and if you’re anywhere near me, you’re welcome to come by and we can look at it together and come up with a plan.

 

[Rick W]

Oh, and welcome to TRS. You’re going to have to wear one of these for the first year.

 

[Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto]

Rick and Eric: Thank you for the replies! Glad I found this community.

Rick, I'm right up Peachtree Industrial from you in downtown Norcross. This evening, I'll take pictures and upload them.

 

[Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto]

The mileage shows 19k, but I'm assuming it's rolled over just once. Interior is clean, not much rust at all.

Other than this Saturday, I'm available. Work during the weekdays, normal work hours, but free in the evenings. I'd be happy to meet up.

 

[Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto]

Here are some pictures. Pictures of the instrument panel were taken about 20 min apart on my drive home, after the truck was warmed up

 

[Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto]

@Rick W when are you available for me to stop by/meet up?