So i hate when u search a forum and you find someone having the same problem but there is not final post with the outcome. so i am following back up so other may learn from what i did.
was able to get all the bolts and studs out using 13mm and wobbler extensions. i used a 1/2 socket on some of the very rusted ones as its tighter almost to tight u have to knock them off after.
sprayed and heated the stud but it would still not come out. i put a bolt extractor on it and i though it was going to come out but it snapped just below the threads
you can unbolt the evap coil box one bolt on the inside and 3 on the outside and pull the two heater core lines and push up the box to get a bunch more room. i was able to get direct access after doing that to drill the stud.
i drilled the stud using left hand drill bits until i was close to getting to the threads and the bolt was thin. This is where i hope someone can learn from my mistakes. i should have drilled close to the threads and run my tap though to re tap it or drilled it out enough and put a though bolt as there is more then enough room behind the ears on the top.
instead i tried to use an easy out and i though it was coming until pop the edge of the ear broke off
when u had gone to advanced auto they did not list the bolts sale and amazon said these would not fit. they were half the price on amazon as other places they were an exact fit for the 3.0 2008 ranger.
i ran a tap though all the holes to clean them up size M8- 1.25 and put all the bolts in and tightened them all to 23 Nm
i put JB welded extreme heat on the parts that snapped off. i put a longer bolt though the hole and a washer and nut on the other side. the point of Jb welding the parts that broke off was to make sure the larger fender washer laid flat. I was able to tighten it all down and was the best i was going to get with out pulling the head. I drove the truck around and checked everything after it cooled to make sure it was still 23 Nm. and everything held good