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locking question


b2murdered

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
22
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
whats the cheapest way to have my bronco2 where when i drop it in 4 low all wheels r spinnin?

besides welding the spider gears
 
Yeah thats all of my ideas out the window there haha I was just gonna say weld the som' bitch up!
 
yea ive thought about tht in the back but what about the front?
 
how much do those run and how hard r they to put in
 
Add an extra shim to the side gears, that will act like a limited slip. Costs; new shims = ~$10.00, old shims = free, new oil ~$30.00?
I did this to my d-28 in my '85 b-II and a ford 9" in my '68 Torino, no problems so far. It will wear so don't expect like-new performance forever.

Richard
 
Adding an extra shim puts a lot more stress on the spider gears and it won't give "limited slip" performance (unless you compare to a weak limited slip). Lock rights are cheapest. You can install them yourself as long as you didn't eat crayons as a kid.
 
Cheapest:Welding
Next:Spool
Next:Lunchbox locker (Lockright/Aussie)
 
spools are basically removable welded diffs... just weld it up unless its a daily driver. then i might go to aussie's.

however, look around, you might find used stuff. i got my used aussie for my 8.8 for cheap.

personally i wouldn't spend any money on a 7.5 and d28. weld them up and when they break do a 8.8/d35 swap...
 
spools are basically removable welded diffs... just weld it up unless its a daily driver. then i might go to aussie's.

however, look around, you might find used stuff. i got my used aussie for my 8.8 for cheap.

personally i wouldn't spend any money on a 7.5 and d28. weld them up and when they break do a 8.8/d35 swap...

Typically it's viewed the other way around. A spool never allows any differentiation ever. A full spool is by far the strongest option available as it's a single piece carrier replacement. Welding the spiders is a poor mans spool.
 
yea ive thought about tht in the back but what about the front?

I think you're actually better off welding the front. Since you have auto or manual locking hubs. When the hubs are unlocked the differential won't be spinning and it won't interfere with your steering, once they lock, the axle shafts will start spinnin and everything will be locked
 
I wouldn't run a spool or welded differential on any pavement, though. But its a great option for an off-road rig.
 
Once you get used to the way a spool handles you'll find it's increadibly predictable and really not that bad on road.
 
Except for how hard it is on the rear suspension, axles, and tires. If you were to run it down the road to get into your favorite hole thats one thing. To drive it on the highway and around town stick something more forgiving in there. You can still have both tires grab 100% and keep quality road manners.
 

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