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locker problems


RangerSVT

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TRS since 2002 - NW KY
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19962002
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I got a 96 ranger 4.0L 5r55e, d35 and 8.8 28 spline, I've got lunchbox lockers for both front and rear. When I went to install the rear, the splines matched up, but the overall length was too long to fit ino the carrier. The front (detroit ez locker model #812AO25 93-94 w/abs) is installed but having problems, everytime I turn (hubs locked of course) left, it sounds like I'm breaking a u-joint with a heavy jerk, turning right seems like normal operation. what could be the problem with the front? The rear is a powertrax, on the splined part is stamped vertically on the inside around the center left side is CDB and across on the right side is 8E2 arranged like this -------
-- - --
-- C - - 8 --
-- D - - E --
-- E - 2 --
-------
On the coupler part on the outside is stamped horizontally on one side DDD and the opposite side 9HE. Anyone have any clues why this locker will not fit my 8.8 housing?? :icon_confused:I it possible that 28 and 31 spline carriers are different sizes and this locker is for a 31 spline?? Any help with either of these problems is needed and appreciated, thanks :icon_thumby:
 
Last edited:
I don't know the problem, but there a few points to look at.
  1. the locker you quote in the description is up to '94. You have a '96. Make sure they are the same application.
  2. Perhaps you have a locker for a 7.5, which I believe is standard in '96.
  3. If the outer collars of the locker fit on the axle splines, that is not the problem.
  4. Just locking the hubs (with a locker in the diff) can cause the binding in front that you feel. It should be felt at extreme turning both ways.
 
According to summitracing, this locker fits 97-2000 ranger, the 95-96 part# is 812AO20. they both show the same parts, same spline, and both for d35. it doesn't say or show the difference between them.

I said I have problems only when the hubs are locked to rule out possible probs with the hubs. I experience it with slight turns to the left. Would the location of the springs and pins inside the locker make a difference?? I didn't get instructions with my locker (bought used) and not sure if I got them in right. I kind of thought that if I did have them backwards, them I should have problems out of both sides, not just one. But then again, maybe I'm wrong.:icon_confused:
thanks for the input srteach
 
Okay, just found out that the 025 is for 1.558 hub diameters, and the 020 is for 1.616 hub diameters...Is this my prob??
 
What is the condition of the front axle shaft joints?
You got these second hand?
 
All the joints are in good shape. I installed lockers with my gear install(456). Out back it is still open since I couldn't get the locker into the carrier, its physically too big to install. No signs of any other driveline probs while everything was apart. I've done a few gear installs, so this ain't my first, but its got me stumped:dntknw:
 
Detroit EZ lockers aren't than great, there's been more than few people had them take a dump on them in their D35s and snap and pop, including right out of the box brand new...
 
Thanks for the info Hahnsb2, got a good price on them and figured it was a good locker since detroit is widely known...so what about the powertrax locker I have for the 8.8, its too long to fit into the carrier, but the splined coupler fits perfectly on the axles...Would could it be??:icon_confused:
 
Okay, just found out that the 025 is for 1.558 hub diameters, and the 020 is for 1.616 hub diameters...Is this my prob??

The small difference on the outside diameter makes a (relatively) large difference on the interior diameter
 
but would that give me the prob I am having??
 
Tried to wheel today, got stuck. Locker is FUBAR'd...tires gripping, the front sounds like the locker is not engaging at all. Driver side definitely is not engaging at all (and the side I had probs with) the pass side disengages after a little throttle...
 
Any opinions on this prob??
 
did you reuse the stock side gear thrust washers? did they look worn?

most lunchbox lockers rely on these washers 1.) being there 2.) being correct thickness.

if they are not there, one, if not both sides, will operate improperly (seen this on a jeep d35 rear, w/ lock-right)..
 
both thrust washers were re-installed, and looked fine, no major wear spots or hot spots on either side. No side to side movement of either set of couplers after installed. everything appeared to be good during final inspection...I'm dreading to pull the diff back out and find it grenaded, or sheared a pin...right now I can still drive it, just not use 4x4, the front doesn't pull at all, kind of looking for a super cheap 60hp or a less desired 44hp to replace...been slowly looking for the parts to do SAS, guess now is the time to start getting the parts, huh?? kind of hard with no job right now!! I don't even have 50 miles on the brand new gears, that's what sucks:bawling:
 
Get an Aussie Locker for the front. When trying to instal the rear did you remove the ring gear? Im sure if you installed gears you could figure it out but maby you missed that, sorry thats the only way I could seem to write it out, not trying to be an ass.
 

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