lifter tap after getting off highway

[RustedRanger]

Intox it should be found in the Tech Library.

 

[RyanL]

Some have had the media inside the fram oil filters collapse and from what they said in the threads they are more restrictive. Usually you can get the Motorcraft filters at places that have the Frams, WalMart has them and I got the last couple at Rural King,just remember the number of the filter cause some places don't have the books available...it's a FL-1A

Thanks for the part #. I usually don't see Motorcraft filters around this area (especially at Walmart) so maybe I might order a bunch online or something. BTW, does anyone know if there are any other filters that are okay to use such as STP or Purolator or is the 2.9 just real picky?

 

[RyanL]

thanks for elaborating on the pinging, RyanL. I reset the timing to 10 (with the spout connector removed), then retarded until pinging was minimal by ear. I checked the timing at that point and it was right at 0, about 10 with the spout connector plugged in. In another thread I found here, someone talks about removing the spout connector and setting the timing to 0 for all EFI Fords. I don't know about that, but it's ironic that I'm there by trial and error. I am running a 180 t-stat already. The pinging does seem to be a bit better at this point, however, it is still there. I will try looking into some of the sensors as you pointed out.

Does anyone know the location of the diagnostic link and the points to connect, to read the codes on a 90?

I think that it is supposed to be set at 10* BTDC with the engine warmed up and the spout disconnected (or at least that's the way which I always did it). At 0* I doubt that the vehicle will be very drivable. Think of the spout as a vacuum advance line like on the older distributors (just an electronic version). Now I believe that the TFI module (it's mounted on the back of the distributor) controls the timing advance curve on our vehicles so maybe that is acting up and advancing it too much at certain RPMs. Just a suggestions since mine was running a little crappy and missing a little because of a flaky TFI. I noticed that my timing was jumping around a bit when I held the RPMs steady around 3K instead of holding steady at 20-something degrees or whatever. I am by no means telling you that your TFI is bad, just something else to check into which commonly fails on these vehicles. There's other things that you could check into like I said which can lead to a messed up air fuel ratio. I wish that I could hear the vehicle run. A lean running engine often gasps when you rev it while a rich running one kind of bogs down or sputters. There's also the issue of carbon build-up which can also lead to a little pinging. Carbon build up can be caused by numerous things such as running a vehicle for a while without a thermostat, running too high an octane fuel when there's no call for it (higher octane fuels have a higher combustion temp), extended periods of idling, and even over babying a vehicle can cause a vehicle to build up carbon in the combustion chambers (you have to open it up occasionally to clean it out). I always used H20 from a spray bottle into the intake of a running vehicle to help get rid of carbon build up, but there might be other products out now which do a better job. There's that seafoam crap that I hear a lot about these days which I have yet to try. Maybe someone else can chime in on how it works and the best way to use it. Here's a link to how to pull codes: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html . As far as testing various sensors, I've been to www.fordfuelinjection.com for the specs. From what I can tell the specs on Ford sensors seem to be fairly universal.

 

[intoxicant1]

I think that it is supposed to be set at 10* BTDC with the engine warmed up and the spout disconnected (or at least that's the way which I always did it). At 0* I doubt that the vehicle will be very drivable.

- it is running pretty decent at 0*, so far the best compromise between power and pinging.

Think of the spout as a vacuum advance line like on the older distributors (just an electronic version). Now I believe that the TFI module (it's mounted on the back of the distributor) controls the timing advance curve on our vehicles so maybe that is acting up and advancing it too much at certain RPMs. Just a suggestions since mine was running a little crappy and missing a little because of a flaky TFI. I noticed that my timing was jumping around a bit when I held the RPMs steady around 3K instead of holding steady at 20-something degrees or whatever. I am by no means telling you that your TFI is bad, just something else to check into which commonly fails on these vehicles. There's other things that you could check into like I said which can lead to a messed up air fuel ratio. I wish that I could hear the vehicle run. A lean running engine often gasps when you rev it while a rich running one kind of bogs down or sputters

- it does seem to idle a little erratically (not severe), but I don't really have any gasping or bogging. It does have one condition that might be a clue, when I first start it in the morning (cold) it runs really rough for the first few seconds or dies . I have to feather the gas quite a bit to keep it running initially. After a couple of seconds it smooths out and idles, but it does this every time I first start it or it has sat all day. Seems to be more prevalent when it is colder out.

- as far as the carbon, I ran seafoam through it already. Didn't really seem to change much.

- thanks for the code links, I will check them out and see if I can find anything this weekend.

thanks again for your help, nice to bounce stuff off someone with experience with these.

 

[RyanL]

- it is running pretty decent at 0*, so far the best compromise between power and pinging.

-10* is one hell of a compromise! A lot of guys run theirs at around 12 or 14* (or at least that used to be pretty common). Are you sure that you're looking at it right? I usually have to take a sharpie and put a dash at 8* and 12* and shoot for the spot in the middle. I can never see those damn marks unless it's completely pitch black out. Just out of curiosity, does your truck start to run crappy when you disconnect the timing spout? If not, maybe there is an issue with the wiring for it. I ask because I thought I remember seeing an issue with the 2.9's spout wiring in the tech library or somewhere and the wires get frayed and shorted. I don't know how common that issue is, I just thought I would throw it out there since I saw something on it. Also don't rule out the TFI either since it controls the timing advance (maybe it's advancing the timing too much or something at higher RPMs). I think that some auto parts stores can test them out for you, but I'm not sure how good those tests actually are. As far as the starting issue goes, it sounds as if you may have an injector or two leaking into the cylinders when the vehicle is off. The longer it sits, the more gas drips into the cylinder.