Lifted 4 Door Crew Cab Ranger Build

[dogboy]

Does anybody know of a good or bad place to get suicide hinges? Or what to stay away from? I've been researching it a lot and can't seem to find the answers I need.
This is the style I'll most likely get, but as you can see, the prices vary A LOT, and I don't know why.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BEN3KZY?tag=959media-20
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-hdhins
I heard the "autolocs" are made in the US, so I think that's most, or all of it, but not sure.


My neighbor did a suicide door on his suburban drivers rear door (for his wife's wheel chair access) so I was looking at his, and he got this style, but cheap $90 ones, and he said he'd go with more expensive ones if he had to do it again, because the door sags a little. I think alot of that though, is his hinges could be further apart, and doors don't get much heavier than a full size Cheby rear door...

 

[Dugan]

Ive heard good things about:

http://thorbros.com/front_page

Which use to be suicidedoors.com,

The hinges on my 49 pickup that I use door poppers with aswell are from:

http://www.electric-life.com/

Their customer service is awesome

 

[dogboy]

I spent half the day cleaning the garage, then got a little done on the 4 door.

It will have a filler panel similar to what a 90's fullsize Ford crew cab has.

The rear door will be extended to meet the front from about the bottom of the windows, down. Again, like a 90's ford.

The B-pillar is about ready for final trim, and sleeves. I didn't realize how different a 94 cab corner, and a 98 are in the inner structure.

 

[dogboy]

I guess I'll throw out an update. I haven't really gotten anything done lately, because I've been busy fixing other people's cars, my cars and work around the house.
I bent the TTB in my Ranger this past weekend, so that gets fixed before the 4 door. I already have everything for 4" cut & turned beams, just have to fab and install.

I'll post pics when I get more work done.

EDIT: oh, and I need to find 2 more cheap doors to make the right rear door out of.
I already have two for front doors later on, but they're too nice to go cutting up. I need to find a couple that got the front edges folded over in a wreck or something.

 

[5literbeater]

Looks good! I like a lot of the ideas. I'm looking to do the same thing. Are you making this a show truck or wheeler or maybe a little bit of both? What are you planning for the roof? I got a few ideas if your looking for help. Good luck!

 

[dogboy]

This project has been put on the back burner since September, but hopefully I can get start again soon. My project list is getting smaller.

The truck will not be a wheeler at all, but it won't be a "waxed every weekend show truck" either. I'm building it to be used, yet look good cleaned up occasionally.
As for the roof, unless I come up with a better idea, I'm probably going to use an Explorer roof, because they have the ribs running the length, and it's long enough.


But lately, my other Ranger got a solid axle, 35's and a locker.
I finished it up about 3 weeks ago, and right after that, the rear ujoints all but let go. Got that fixed, and the slave cylinder went out. Since the tranny isn't far behind (1st-3rd synchros) I decided to rebuild it while its out. Throw it back together on Sunday, and head for the snow on Monday. That will be its maiden voyage off the pavement with the new setup.
Thats how the past 4 months have gone .

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Give your shift forks a very close exam, especially where they attach to the rails. I've seen quite a few in the last few years, with bent, cracked, and/or broken shift forks.

I thought my 2nd gear synchro was going out, then one day it just got stuck in 1st. Upon a further exam, found the shift fork broken and synchros all perfect.

Just an FYI, I'd hate for you to have to pull it all back apart within a year, it doesn't hurt to check.


Nice SAS. Whatcha doing for shocks and coils?

Explorer roof would be perfect, might I suggest the rear section of one with a sunroof, or maybe a non-sunroof sport. Then the reinforced ribs wouldn't be too long. Although at that you'd still have to graft the front and rear Ranger pieces.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

 

[dogboy]

I'll have to look at the forks! My synchros are deffinitely gone, but I'll look anyway.

I have 10" FOA's, but I need 12's. as for coils, I'm pretty sure they're either Rusty's, or Rubicon Express, 4.5" grand cherokee coils. They calculate out to 140ppi, which is almost too soft. It is too soft for no sway bar.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Ohhh boy, that would be scary on the streets. My 190s are IMO to soft for the streets, and I have radius arms with polyurethane bushings. With a 2.5 link setup(that's my name for the Jeep long arm setup), it'll be a lot softer. You should look into an Exploder sway bar with disconnects.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

 

[dogboy]

I think they'll be ok with a sway bar. But I wouldn't mind having a set more in the 180 range. I don't drive like a racecar driver. And I'd say I'm probably only at 4" suspension lift, because there's also a 3" body lift in there too. Mine us long arms with TrailGear flex joints at the frame, and poly bushings everywhere else. I only have 1 upper link though, which come off the driver side arm.

As for the swaybar, my factory one is still on the frame, but I built my trackbar mount sticking off the frame rail too far, so the swaybar hits it, and can't be mounted to the axle. I measured up one off a Grand Cherokee, and I think it'll work. It seems to be about 6" wider than a Ranger bar.

 

[ChrisR1S]

Awesome build! D30 in your DD?

 

[adsm08]

Wouldn't it have been easier to bob and Explorer body and swap the front end sheet metal from the Ranger over to it?

Either way, awesome.

 

[brinker88]

I'm running BC Bronco coil springs (175ish ppi) and I HATED driving it on the streets. I run a 1-1/8" sway bar with heim join links as well.

 

[dogboy]

Awesome build! D30 in your DD?

D30, yes. In a DD? Kind of, I don't drive it everyday, but I'd say I drive it half the time, or a little less.

Wouldn't it have been easier to bob and Explorer body and swap the front end sheet metal from the Ranger over to it?

Either way, awesome.

It probably would have been easier to bob an Explorer body, yes, but it would be nothing more than a glorified Sport Trac. Explorer doors are different, and it wouldn't give the lines I'm going for.


I swapped out the old coils for some Rusty off-road 6" Cherokee coils (180ppi, but measuring/calculator says 240ppi). The extra height allowed me to use the 14" Bilsteins I had, using f-250 shock towers.
The body roll is significantly less now! It will still get a sway bar, it's just not as high on my todo list.
It sits a little high in the front now, for my liking.
I went and tested the flex, I'm pretty happy with it. In reality, I think it needs limiting straps, because it flex enough to make coil fall out

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Hey have you looked into the door glass from say a 88 ranger or bronco that has a wing window? Idk if the width is right for you door dimensions but if it's worth it to use a stock window size you could make it fit.
Any progress???