lift virgin... HELP!

[c_note]

Thx c_note!
and i was indeed an airframer, now a mech but i was a refinery welder/pipefitter before i joined.

well ill definatly look around n try to find a dixon bros, but i think i need to start figuring out the solid axle thing since ppl keep talking about it.

if i convert to sas can i still change over to 4wd from 2wd while driving? or would that mean id need to get out n lock em?
also even if the superlift kit is cheaply made, is it possible to re-enforce it? or maybe scratch fab one later based off there design?

i was in the Wing for a while but now im an instructor.

the jeep dana 30 or dana 44 out of a Rubicon axles have live axles. so in that case you could just put it in 4wd without having to get out. i have the dana 44 out of a Jeep Rubicon but i also did the manual hub conversion on it. i do also have all the parts to run the live axle tho.

if you use a dana 44 out of a late 70s ford or the jeep wagoneer axle, you have maual hubs.

i was starting to make my own drop down brackets similar to the RCD kit because i scored the RCD 5.5" lift knuckles. they were very hard to find but when i got them, i was all about making the lift. i built some brackets and only had one other to build but i can t remember why i stopped.

 

[Cheaplabor]

I think your best bet maybe to find a cheap 4x4 to mud in till you can do your truck right. Im in about the same boat with my 04 I decided to go soild axle when I dont have to DD it any more. SAS is about the only setup worth the money for these trucks unless you like the desert seen. I think with the time you have it would be almost imposible to source/make the parts and get the sas done.

 

[westcoastnavy]

I think your best bet maybe to find a cheap 4x4 to mud in till you can do your truck right. Im in about the same boat with my 04 I decided to go soild axle when I dont have to DD it any more. SAS is about the only setup worth the money for these trucks unless you like the desert seen. I think with the time you have it would be almost imposible to source/make the parts and get the sas done.

although i agree with you, in my peticular position ( military) owning 2 differnt vehicles is a pretty large hastle and could, in the long run, become even more expensive trying to get it moved to every location i will be stationed at. i could get a trailer, but then my ranger would still have to get beefed up to handle that! as well as the possibility of having to get the 2nd truck/party truck insured.

so it seems that SAS is the way to go. even if i wont have the nessecary time to complete a transfer, if i could gather all of the parts, i could bring them with me and complete the conversion when i get there!

so any ideas on what i will need to be able to automatically shift from 2wd to 4wd and what ALL i will need?

 

[c_note]

if you have a regular cab, id say get a dana 30 out of a jeep xj or a yj. if you have a supercab, you would want the dana 44 out of a jeep rubicon. those are the only axles that i can think of have a live axle setup. you may spend around a grand on the Rubicon axle or about 200 on a dana 30.

you could get the dana 44 out of a 78 79 f150 but it has maual hubs. not what ur looking for.

as for suspension, use jeep coils and a good set of shocks like fox, bilstein or whatever. id definitly link the axle with radius arms and if you do use a jeep axle, get y-links. as for coil buckets, you can get a set from camburg or even fabtech or just go on rece-dezert.com under classifieds and see if you can get a set from someone there. you steering box would have to be a toyota 86 to 95 ifs box. your better off building your own tierod, drag link and trac bar. you can get threaded inserts to weld into DOM tubing from ballisticfabrication.com. i hate buying from them because there customer service sucks and every order that i have placed with them(i think 6) something was wrong or they never sent the order when they said they did.

 

[westcoastnavy]

OK so i need...

jeep coils.
fox shocks.
coil buckets.
newer dana 44?
and the 37`` tires
steering box off a 86-95 toy.
and fab...

tie rod.
trac bar.
drag link.
right?

and ill have to modify my driveshaft right?
or buy one?
on fab carbon steel? or special alloys? can i use stainless?
also whatst he diff with using coils vs springs?
btw thx again for all the help!

 

[c_note]

OK so i need...

jeep coils.
fox shocks.
coil buckets.
newer dana 44?
and the 37`` tires
steering box off a 86-95 toy.
and fab...

tie rod.
trac bar.
drag link.
right?

and ill have to modify my driveshaft right?
or buy one?
on fab carbon steel? or special alloys? can i use stainless?
also whatst he diff with using coils vs springs?
btw thx again for all the help!

you dont want to use stainless. mild steel will do for brackets but for your tierod, drag link, and track bar you want to use DOM tubing. 1 1/4od .120 wall will work but 1 3/8 od .188 wall is better. i bought mine here.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=283&step=2&top_cat=197

using coils is a smoother ride than leafs. some say coils flex better but i think its all in the spring rate. thats why i prefer coilovers over all. you can completly tune ur suspension to whatever ride you want... hard, soft or smooth. coilovers are very pricey but well worth it on a conversion like this. you will have to modify your steering shaft. i bought a seperate joint add with the rag joint used on the toyota steering shaft. i also used a 3/4" hiem to support the shaft and welded it to the shock towers.

ive got some pics here

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50512

 

[westcoastnavy]

well what would be cheaper? coils or leafs? money is a huge factor right now, and i can always change it later..
also why do i need to get a new steering box?
isnt there a way to modify that shaft that drops down?
also if i go with the locking hubs ill save a bunch of dough and it seems that for now, it would def be alot easier..
so if i do the leafs and i go with some old dana 44 and not worry about a live axle, do u think i could do this whole thing in say 6 days for under 3000$?
assuming i get a dana 44 for under 500$ and i have all the parts/steel???? becauset he big factors are time and money right now. im taking leave to go to cali (home) get my stuff my truck and tools and drag everything up north with me. and im not going to get another opertunity for about a year to do that!

 

[alaskan155]

leaf springs will be easier to set up, and the reason for the steering box is because you have rack and pinion steering now, so that wont work, but ive seen a toyota box used and a 83-97 ranger steering box used for a sas on a gen 4 ranger

also before you start you might want to look up lift laws for where you have the vehicle registered

also some threads for some ideas
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41805 coils dana 30
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674&page=2 leaf springs

 

[westcoastnavy]

hrmm

ok so leafs easier prolly cheaper, sounds good!
SO im trying to put together a complete list of what i will need. i mean 100%complete list, all the way down to nuts bolts and screws!
( dang i wish there was a pub for this!!!!)

OK so lets see...
37`` tires
leafsprings
brake lines
drive shaft
steering box
tie rod
tie rod ends
trac bar
drag link
dana 44 ( old one for now)
mounting bracket for the leafs
anything else anyone can think of?

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Even with a good torch it's gonna take a while to do this. If time is a huge factor you might be SOL. SAS's take quite a bit of time and there's so many things that just don't get thought of.

Opposed to a gear box and traditional drag link / tierod set up you could do it the right way (in the long run) and go full hydro. What i wish I could have done.

That would involve welding tabs on an axle that hold a hydrolic ram. Then you could go double ram or single and that would determine your tie rod combo.

Then it'd just be running an orbital or steering valve, and lines.

But in some states you have to have mechanical linkage. Thank God CO is so relaxed about this stuff.


The entire front x member needs to come out regardless, so watch out for fuel lines as your torching and cutting.


If you go with leafs you can do a SAS in 3 days.

One to cut everything out and prep the frame,

one to weld the hangers and make a cross member, set up shackles, make spring plates, and u bolt the axle in,

one for running shocks, brake lines, and steering,


I just got done SASing a 2000 with leaves so hit me up if you have any questions

 

[westcoastnavy]

Even with a good torch it's gonna take a while to do this. If time is a huge factor you might be SOL. SAS's take quite a bit of time and there's so many things that just don't get thought of.

Opposed to a gear box and traditional drag link / tierod set up you could do it the right way (in the long run) and go full hydro. What i wish I could have done.

That would involve welding tabs on an axle that hold a hydrolic ram. Then you could go double ram or single and that would determine your tie rod combo.

Then it'd just be running an orbital or steering valve, and lines.

But in some states you have to have mechanical linkage. Thank God CO is so relaxed about this stuff.


The entire front x member needs to come out regardless, so watch out for fuel lines as your torching and cutting.


If you go with leafs you can do a SAS in 3 days.

One to cut everything out and prep the frame,

one to weld the hangers and make a cross member, set up shackles, make spring plates, and u bolt the axle in,

one for running shocks, brake lines, and steering,


I just got done SASing a 2000 with leaves so hit me up if you have any questions

thx i really appreciate it!
well first off ill be using my plasma torch for most of this, IF i can get it clean enough. so it should be a bit quicker, and i think do have to have mechanical linkage but ill look up more on it.

and i HOPE it just takes 3 days!!!
but ill definatly hit you up for more info when i get all the parts and look at my front end in confusion!!!

 

[westcoastnavy]

does it matter what i take the leafsprings out of?
is there a preferred set?
is there a differance between front and rear leaf springs?
and do i need to modify them at all? or just the mounts??
oh and i can use a body lift AND leaf springs right?

 

[c_note]

If you go with leafs you can do a SAS in 3 days.

One to cut everything out and prep the frame,

one to weld the hangers and make a cross member, set up shackles, make spring plates, and u bolt the axle in,

one for running shocks, brake lines, and steering,


I just got done SASing a 2000 with leaves so hit me up if you have any questions

i did my SAS in 3 days and i had rad arms and a track bar to setup. i new where everything was supposed to go before i even started cutting.

 

[JohnnyO]

For 35's you'll need a suspension and bodylift both. 37's will break CV joints and tie rod ends pretty regularly and trash the ball joints.
The Superlift kit includes new longer shocks.
With a solid front axle you can shift out of 4wd to 2wd no problem although the hubs will still be turning until you unlock them. Automatic hubs are unreliable, you are better off with Warn manual hubs on a solid front.

 

[redneck_rainey]

hey man im tryin do do basically the same thing with my 01 ranger 4x4. but i have decided to only go as big as 33" tires cause my muddin spots are rough as hell. but reguardless let me know how u decide to do this so i dont **** up like u were afraid of thanks