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lift help


Joined
Feb 10, 2013
Messages
22
City
Ocala,Fl
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
just got started installing a rough country 4 inch lift on a 2wd 1994 ranger. ofcourse things dont go together as easily as planned and since im only 19 and dont have a surplus of tools its not to easy. major issue i am running into is how to cut the rivets out. i assume i can drill them out but i am open to any unique tool or ways for this project to be easier or if there is any how to vids out there to help me out. thanks.
 
Cut an x in the head with a grinder and use an air hammer to cut the rest off and knock it out. You coud probably use a hammer and punch if you dont have a air hammer
 
The best way is to heat the head with a torch, knock it off with an air chisel, then switch bits and punch the rivet out with the air chisel.

But I know what it's like to not have such things handy. I've used an angle grinder to grind the heads off, I've drilled the heads off, I've cut the heads off with a hacksaw, I've cut the heads off with a sawzall and I've beat the heads off with a cold chisel and 3-lb hammer. All methods work, some just give you more exercise than others. Most of the time once you get the head off and the bracket off, you can give the remainder of the rivet a sharp whack with a hammer and knock it out, but sometimes it doesn't work so well and you have to cut the rivet again next to the frame. It works best when you've used a torch on the rivet because it becomes a little more pliable from the heat and you can drive it out easily with a whack from the ball end of a ball-peen hammer. But that's a bit of an acquired skill, lol.
 
I drill them if i have room, otherwise I use an angle grinder and an air chisel.

-PlumCrazy
 
thanks guys given the tools i have i will probly drill them out or angle grind were i cant reach just need to get some good bits for steel also just to ask if will need somthing like a fork puller to pull the drag link down from the pitman arm?
 
Ya you'll want a fork tool for the tie rod going into the pitman arm, are you changing out the pitman arm? You'll need a pitman arm puller, which you can rent from autozone. They're fun to get off, after you've got the puller nice and tight, you'll need to give the pitman arm a few good whacks with a hammer for it to pop off.
 
Ya you'll want a fork tool for the tie rod going into the pitman arm, are you changing out the pitman arm? You'll need a pitman arm puller, which you can rent from autozone. They're fun to get off, after you've got the puller nice and tight, you'll need to give the pitman arm a few good whacks with a hammer for it to pop off.

When I did mine, the puller didn't help at all a fork and bfh did the truck. For the rivets I used a grinder and air hammer. For the rear I hand tightened the u bolts then cut off the excess since they are waaay to long and I couldn't get a socket on there. Then I backed up the nuts to straighten out the threads. Let me know if you have any other questions I did mine last year.
 
You have to use the puller and a BFH, if you want it off easily.

I tighten my puller till it stalls my 1/2" impact, then whack the side between the puller. First try, first hit, every time.

And I don't recommend pickle forks for the tierods. They ruin the boot and some times the tierod.
Just apply separating pressure with a pry bar, then whack the side of what it's tapered into with a hammer, deadblow ballpeen works the best.
 
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Don't use the pickle fork on the pitman arm that is just asking for steering box problems.
I've had to replace a lot of steering boxes because the last guy used a fork and then the box went out.
 
I agree with the no pickle fork thing. It screws up parts that may not be broken. I have never owned one and never needed one. Just whack the side of the knuckle or pitman hard enough and it will let go of the part it is holding.
 
I agree with the no pickle fork thing. It screws up parts that may not be broken. I have never owned one and never needed one. Just whack the side of the knuckle or pitman hard enough and it will let go of the part it is holding.

I have a set for my air hammer, perfect for removing parts off IFS GM trucks, or any other place you can't swing a hammer.
 
Grind the head flush and just use a hammer and punch. I've done easily 100 rivets that way, its really nut that bad. Air hammers or torches are great but sometimes the old way is the best.
 
Cut off wheel on a grinder by far for me. Use leather gloves, eye protection and be fire aware both on and around your truck.
 

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