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Leveling a 97 4x4


ganny76

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
12
City
Sneads, Florida
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
I recently purchase a 97 4x4 extended cab and I am wanting to level it. I have seen the 2 inch spring spacers, but the seem to be for 1983-1996. T-bars did not come in rangers until 98. How do you suggest I level at 97? Can I use the spacers or do I get new springs. Would prefer the spacers due to cost.
 
A 97 should still be a TTB truck, so yes you could use spacers.

Leveling coils would be a better option.

If you are dead set on spacers though, there is a cheaper method. You can use big steel washers. It's safe and I have ran them on my truck for over a year.

One more thing you need to look into is getting an alignment after leveling the truck.
 
I figured I would need an alignment. I ran these on a 98 wrangler I had and they worked out fine. Easy to put on also. Do you think I can get it aligned after the 2 inch spacers or will I need to by some more parts to get it aligned.
 
The only problem I can think of, is if the spacers will not allow you to put the nut back on the stud.

You may need a set of adjustable alignment bushings.

Also remember the TTB has a 1:1.5 leveraging effect. If the spacers are actually 2" they will lift the front around 3".
 
Last edited:
A 1.25" thick spacer is about the max you want to go (maybe up to 1.33" thick). This will yield right around 2" lift.
Anything more and you run the risk of not being able to realign it properly.
 
I would definantly not put the rubber coil spacers on your truck. I put a set on my 1997 4x4 and have had nothing but trouble out of them. Over time they begin to shrink and throw your allignment out of wack. Also, when they shrink, the entire spacer-coil assembly becomes closer to the axle, but the coil retaining nut stays in the same spot. That means you will have a little slack in between the coil spring and the nut which causes your axle to jump up and down, especially in reverse. You can build your own spacer by buying a piece of 4 in pipe. Then cut two pieces of 1/4" plate the same size as the pipe. Drill a hole in the top and bottom of the plate for the stud and weld the plate to the pipe. This will give you a 1 1/2" spacer.
 
A 1.25" thick spacer is about the max you want to go (maybe up to 1.33" thick). This will yield right around 2" lift.
Anything more and you run the risk of not being able to realign it properly.

Yeah...forgot to mention that.
 
They also make stud extenders for the shock. You use those with the steel washers and your all set!
 
Yea, stay away from the polyurethane spacers. Steel washers are definitely the way to go. Just make sure you run a bead of weld down the side so they dont shift around.
 
Some people feel safe with them welded.

I've ran them over a year unwelded. No problems, no shifting.

You can buy 2" shocks from O'Reilly's.
 

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