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Let's talk basic engine buliding. carbed 302.


jarfly

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2007
Messages
729
Age
34
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
Okey gettin started on my winter engine bulid for the ranger, No shes not gettin swaped yet I still gotta drive it dureing the snow so next spring I will do the ONLEY thing to get power from a 3.0 and that is add a 2 to the end.
So What I have is a 302 out of a fairlane, Im not sure on the year atm it came outa my grandma's old car.
So all I really plane on useing is the block/crank.(if the crank is even good aint tore it down yet)
Street, muddin/light wheeling is what the truck is going to be used for, so I dont think I need some 500 horse monster just something that has some grunt to it.

Sooo, qustions. Cam what would be a good cam for this, I do want a choppy idel so when I pull up to a cruise in or w/e everone knows this truck is v8'ed

Heads, What do you all say? I have the intake and carb right now, just a holly 4 bbl carb and alum intake.

Headers, will the headmens work on a 4x4?

Bottom end will be most likey stock, no need for a strocker any thing. I have bulit chebbys befor but this is my first ford bulid..
 
if its lower mile and had decent oil changes its probable in great shape.


i would consider some holley prepped heads to go with your other holley stuff.

once you know what the rotating assemble will be, along with piston and head type and static compression and specific intake/carb numbers call the cam manufacturers and tell them what you are doing. best way to go.

i would buy a new balancer and fly/flex assembly as well and balance it.
 
You will need a rear sump oilpan that's got a dipstick tube in the pan for this. Early Bronco and Econolines had this pan and the 79/80 Mustang 5.0 did as well, but in a dual sump. Heads ? You could use the same heads, but the pressed in rocker studs and rail rockers can put a damper on cam choice, nothing above a Comp 268H will work with the pressed in studs.
 
I thought that you had to use a dual sump oil pan when doing a 302 swap in a ranger due to the cross member being in the way.

Your going to be doing the samething with your 302 as I want to do with mine, driving wise that is, but I dont really want the lumpy cam (though they do sound nice) and I plan on just keeping the original heads. I plan on getting one out of an 85 f150.

I was looking on comp. cams and they have some nice prices on them and they are a name that I have heard good from so may end up getting mine from them along with the lifters.
 
It will be a week or 2 befor I get to get my hands dirty with this thing, But what about a 91-93 mustang heads? I can get a set of heads form one. My carbed intake will bolt right on?
 
It will be a week or 2 befor I get to get my hands dirty with this thing, But what about a 91-93 mustang heads? I can get a set of heads form one. My carbed intake will bolt right on?

What year is the fairlane?

Depending on era of the Fairlane the Mustang heads could be a big help performancewise, and I have torn apart two engines with rail rockers and they were both full of shot ones, my '67 289 was to the point where they were pushing on the spring rather than the valve... which can cause the keepers to come out and drop the valve.

In '79 they went to a much better stamped rocker arm.
 
For what you want, the mustang heads (probably E7s) will work fine. Rebuild the bottom end, punch it .030 over with some flat tops, rebuild the E7s with the Trickflo 2500100 spring kit and use either the comp 268h or the 270h magnum cam and have fun:icon_thumby:
 
It will be a week or 2 befor I get to get my hands dirty with this thing, But what about a 91-93 mustang heads? I can get a set of heads form one. My carbed intake will bolt right on?

At a minimum, the E7TE heads need to have the exhaust sides opened and the bowls blended to be anything special. These heads were used on all 87-97 5.0's in pickups, vans and mustangs, there's nothing special about them.
 

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