leaking rear brakes

[swynx]

Just bled all my brakes and got the rears working again. Now I have a leak. Its coming from next to the gas tank. I can't get in there to see what's going on. I started to remove the bed then came inside to see what I should do. I drive the truck 20 minutes to town and back and the master was empty.

Can I just buy some brake line and by pass this rotted section? Or jb weld it or something. Never ran brake lines so I have no idea on what ill need. Have a job interview this week so I need the truck. And I'm jobless so I have next to no cash.

Assuming its a big hole. With the truck off if I push on the pedal I can hear it.

 

[swynx]

What about capping it off at the master cylinder?

Most of you will say never. But may I remind you. Tons of us have driven without our rear brakes working on these trucks and didn't even know it. I did it till I replaced my bleeder screws. And don't notice much of a difference if any. Plus my rear pads are nearly non existant. Ones I get back to work ill run brakes lines through out the entire truck. Just need it for this interview and long enough to get a paycheck. Plus this place is 2 miles from my house

And this leak got worse. Filled the master. Drove it out of the garage up my hill and parked it. 20 second drive. Its half empty.

 

[cvar]

Capping it off at the MC is a BAD idea (less braking power). But allowing it to leak is a MUCH WORSE idea (total brake loss). Dude, take a bicycle or taxi until it's fixed.

Is the leak just behind the gas tank, at the LR shock mount? That's the only brake line joint (ie,fitting) anywhere around there, and it's located at the rear end of the only hard brake line that's between the RABS (at drivers feet) and the rear axle. Take a look at my photos to see what's where: ( http://imgur.com/a/sUnMy ) <== CLICK.

If it's not a bad screw-fitting, then it's gotta be the steel tubing, itself. That LOOONG line from RABS to LR shock is rusted, like mine was. Then it's easiest to just replace it by unscrewing it from the RABS output, and from the LR shock mount. Then replace that whole section as 1 piece. It's best to remove the bed and drop the gas tank so you can squeeze the new line along the frame rail w/o the gas tank in your way.

You can buy 2 pre-made shorter lines from Autozone, and hook them together to make one 11' line, if you prefer. Otherwise, you'll need to buy a full 25' roll of 3/16" tubing, and find someone (or just learn how) to flare each end, with a 45 degree inverted (ie, double) flare.

Time to inspect all of your brake lines? Mine were scary, and rusted badly. Yours are 3 yrs older.

 

[swynx]

When I was under there earlyer is stuffed my hand and felt aeound the line I couldn't feel any bad spots. Felt solid. But I was also unaware there was a connector there. There is wet dirt on the inside of the frame rail so its right there. Tomorrow I'm going to take that piece out and inspect it.

 

[swynx]

After looking at your pictures I saw that joint. Its not coming from there its further up the line where you can't see and can barely reach. My rust isn't as bad as yours. In fact my lines aren't rusted at all there still I believe a gray color. This truck doesn't have any real rust on it just the typical nuts and bolts. Frame still has color....

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Its rotted out behind the gas tank probably due to dirt build up sitting there and rusting it to bits. You can fish a new line in there without pulling the bed or dropping the tank. Cut it back to where it is nice and solid and reflare the line and connect the old to the new with a union. Reconnect it to the factory join at the rear flex hose.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

[swynx]

Its rotted out behind the gas tank probably due to dirt build up sitting there and rusting it to bits. You can fish a new line in there without pulling the bed or dropping the tank. Cut it back to where it is nice and solid and reflare the line and connect the old to the new with a union. Reconnect it to the factory join at the rear flex hose.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Was going to unconnect it at the rear union and the front proporsioning valve take the while thing into oreillys and make something. Rather straight piece so shouldn't be too hard

 

[wizkid00104]

Here is what I found when I pulled my bed and gas tank....





If you are going to take the time to repair it, I recommend going with NiCopp line. It has no steel in it so it will not rust. It is also very easy to bend and form by hand. Pick it up at Advance Auto and order online with a coupon code to drop the price. You only need tube nuts and a double flaring tool. I got 3/16" brass tube nuts from www.allensfasteners.com when I did mine. You need some 3/16" to 1/4" adapters too. I tried to eliminate as much steel as I could.

 

[adsm08]

It probably popped the line behind the tank. It's a common spot to have go. I think my truck has lost 3 lines there. I just get the longest piece Napa has and run it up there and reconnect at the unions each time. I figure the rest of the old line will rust away and fall out eventually.

 

[appletonbill]

Just bled all my brakes and got the rears working again. Now I have a leak. Its coming from next to the gas tank. I can't get in there to see what's going on. I started to remove the bed then came inside to see what I should do. I drive the truck 20 minutes to town and back and the master was empty.

Can I just buy some brake line and by pass this rotted section? Or jb weld it or something. Never ran brake lines so I have no idea on what ill need. Have a job interview this week so I need the truck. And I'm jobless so I have next to no cash.

Assuming its a big hole. With the truck off if I push on the pedal I can hear it.

I had to cap off my rear brakes when my line sprung a leak a couple years ago before I could run new lines. The front brakes do the majority of the work anyway. The rears only about 25%. Just drive careful until you get it fixed. But if you get in an accident you could be liable for disabling your rear brakes. Just sayin".

 

[Mark_88]

Easy to fix...like a few have said...just cut the line before the tank, flare the line, use a union...measure and flare the other end to the joint at the flex line to the axel...

As for capping the line...been there...done that...drove my Tempo for six months with only three lines (they have four) and currently driving my Ranger with no driver side rear brakes...I put the new line on a few months ago but haven't connected it...lost some parts off my bleeder and been just too tied up to finish the job...aside from making plans to completely replace everything...still working on that...

Not recommended, but will do in a pinch...try not to let the pinches grow into full blown hugs...

 

[Mark_88]

Here is what I found when I pulled my bed and gas tank....

YIKES! Reminds me of the images I saw of the Titanic...

EDIT: I skimmed through your PB and the images of your rebuild are impressive...nice job on the rebuild!!!