Larger Front Brakes On 2011?


cmcolfax

Forum Member

EMT / Paramedic
Firefighter
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Sep 19, 2025
Messages
203
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101
Age
55
City
Williamsburg
State - Country
VA - USA
Other
2007 Volkawagen MK5 Rabbit 2.5
Vehicle Year
2011
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
None yet ;-)
Tire Size
265/75/16
My credo
Facta Non Verba
2011 Sport SOHC 4.0 4wd 5mt

Did Ford use a larger front brake setup in the last few years of production?

There are lots of write ups on using Jeep YJ/TJ/XJ/MJ/ZK wheels.

They all say the 15" fit but you will need to run 2" spacers to make up for the totally different backspacing.

I swapped on a set of 15x8 "Gamblers" today, using Titan Wheel Products 2" spacers.

I have seen Rangers wearing these particular wheels in this forum, in Reddit forums and FB groups so I know they aren't an oddball.

I've got a weird little rub.

The front brake caliper mounting bracket is just kissing the inside of the wheel. I can hear it scraping/squealing when driving forward, oddly not in reverse tho.

I can barely feel a difference between the grooves in the aluminum from manufacturing and where it's rubbing. I've driven about 2 miles.

It's hard AF to get a picture so this is the best I've got.
Larger Front Brakes On 2011?


Whaddya think? Send it and let them "self clearance"?
 
I ran jeep wheels on my 2010 for a couple years and didn't need spacers at all.. forget what model/year jeep they were off of though.. mabey I can find a picture..
 
2011 Sport SOHC 4.0 4wd 5mt

Did Ford use a larger front brake setup in the last few years of production?

There are lots of write ups on using Jeep YJ/TJ/XJ/MJ/ZK wheels.

They all say the 15" fit but you will need to run 2" spacers to make up for the totally different backspacing.

I swapped on a set of 15x8 "Gamblers" today, using Titan Wheel Products 2" spacers.

I have seen Rangers wearing these particular wheels in this forum, in Reddit forums and FB groups so I know they aren't an oddball.

I've got a weird little rub.

The front brake caliper mounting bracket is just kissing the inside of the wheel. I can hear it scraping/squealing when driving forward, oddly not in reverse tho.

I can barely feel a difference between the grooves in the aluminum from manufacturing and where it's rubbing. I've driven about 2 miles.

It's hard AF to get a picture so this is the best I've got.
View attachment 143075

Whaddya think? Send it and let them "self clearance"?

I wouldn't.

Clearance the bracket.
 
I wouldn't.

Clearance the bracket.
I second that. The bracket has more material to lose than the wheel. You're heat cycling that rim in ways it wasn't designed to withstand while slowly compromising its overall integrity.
 
Last edited:
about 2004 the front rotors on 4wd went from 11.25 to 12"
there are some 15" wheels that fit, they have an enlarged rear opening to clear the bigger brakes.
other wise spacers are needed.
you do not want aluminum rubbing on anything, and since wheels & bearings flex while driving you'll need at least 1/8'.
 
I second that. The bracket has more material to lose than the wheel. You're heat cycling that rim in ways it wasn't designed to withstand while slowly compromising its overall integrity.

The heat generated/cycling is what had me concerned.

It's rubbed enough now where when I pull the wheel back off it should have revealed where it's making contact and I can just hit it with an angle grinder and take a couple tenths off.
 
about 2004 the front rotors on 4wd went from 11.25 to 12"
there are some 15" wheels that fit, they have an enlarged rear opening to clear the bigger brakes.
other wise spacers are needed.
you do not want aluminum rubbing on anything, and since wheels & bearings flex while driving you'll need at least 1/8'.
I knew I needed the spacers to make up for the backspacing differences to clear the brakes.
Didn't know about the larger diameter...
The "point of contact" will have revealed itself so I'll know where to start.
I'm sure I can take at least 0.125 off each end if it's contacting in two places
 
I know I'm over thinking this, but I wonder if it's also partially an alignment issue amplified by the 2" spacers and different wheel geometry?

AND the slightly larger brake package.

It has some noticable negative camber (top of tire leaning in).

I suppose it can't hurt to find a shop to align it on Friday...
 
I know I'm over thinking this, but I wonder if it's also partially an alignment issue amplified by the 2" spacers and different wheel geometry?
Bearings are a point of concern, moreso than alignment. If the wheel combo rides in the same space as OEM, added spacers won't affect bearing load. Push it farther out, and you will see uneven strain that could disproportionately load the bearings. The inner bearing is almost twice the size of the outer bearing on a 2WD (thinking of my application), the latter of which is where I'm most likely to suspect failure, but wandering and minute camber change is possible. However, if you're aware of the positive operational condition of the bearings, I'd lean towards a simple realignment.
 
No known wheel bearing issues.
Was actually at the dealer for service a couple of weeks ago and the tech pointed out that for its age and mileage it was solid, no issues he noticed.
Tires were wearing evenly, no cupping or feathering etc.
Basically no bad wheel bearing or ball joint symptoms.
I'll look up the exact dimensions of the OE 16's I pulled off and the dimensions of the Jeep 15's I put on.
And compare where the centerline is and where it rides in relation to the bearing.
They eyeball test has them poking out from the fender flares about an inch (and the rears pushed out closer to the edge of the flare but still tucked.
I only noticed the negative camber when I was standing behind the truck and noticed the top of the RF wheel leaning inward.

I'mma spring for an alignment after I clearance the caliper brackets.
 

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