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Killed my power door switch after shattering driver window. Help.


askthemasses

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
89
City
Seattle, WA
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
Super frustrated on many levels, thinking I picked a stupid hobby that I'm not cut out for. So maybe last post.
Went to replace my window motor because the window left a gap when rolled all the way up. Got it all done and good to go- last fastener to attach window to motor arm- glass ****kng shatters.

So I threw a few tools and swore a lot and pouted like an f-ing child.

Anyway, put it all back together and not the power door switch on that side is weak at best. I'll get one or two successful lock-unlocks out of it. Then a struggle, then nothing. Disconnected and reconnected it. No clue what I did to screw up another thing after screwing up royally on the actual project at hand.

If anyone knows what I couldve done, or how to fix it, thanks.

In the mean time I'll be finding a new hobby because I'm clearly not cut out for this. Just gonna try and clean up this mess and move on.
 
You ever think maybe you didn’t do anything wrong? Unless a wire is pinched/cut could have been the switches time.

Mine is intermittent and it’s just the contacts inside the switch. I believe they have tabs where you can take it apart and clean the internal contacts.

What are you using for fasteners?


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You ever think maybe you didn’t do anything wrong?

...I just shattered my window and killed my door switch. I'm gonna say yea, I did a few things wrong and am in a sour self deprecating mood over it. I doubt it was considentally the switched time- more likely I jacked it up.
 
I am thinking along Shelton's logic... those two items are fairly non dependent on each other. If you did do something to mess it up, you probably loosened a wire harness to the switch so that it is not making good contact, or the window shattering pulled the harness out somehow. Either result is fairly easy to remedy :)

Make sure that the wire harness hasn't rubbed itself bare on the metal parts of the door as well.

Another thought for you. If I am doing a project on my cars/ trucks that I am unsure of my wits and intelligence to see me through to the successful end, I will go to the local pull a part and find the similar year range car and start taking it a part and taking pictures. if I mess it up, it isn't my ride, and it will give me some valuable lessons on the project when I get home.

Youtube vids are great, but nothing beats hands on for learning and figuring things out.

Here is another takeaway that I have learned for most of my repairs: if i do it myself I will save a s*** ton of money vs having a shop do it. often enough, that savings is so deep that I can afford to completely botch the job 2 or three times over and still come out ahead when I finally get it right.

Hang in there. there are also a lot of skilled people on here that can walk you through it as well.

AJ
 
Thanks. The switch on the passenger side door is out and has been since I bought the vehicle, so yea- maybe it was it's time. The driver door still works with the fob, passenger door doesn't respond to anything- buttons or fob. Anyway, the pessimist in me says I messed something up just by disconnecting it and reconnecting it. 1A has a set of two actuators for $28 so I think I'll pick those up and get on that when I'm out of my funk.
Thanks for the pick-me-up too. I know everyone has done stupid things on cars before, I just like to wish I was exempt from making embarrassing mistakes.
Good advice about the junkyard too.
 
So which fasteners were you using when putting the window in? Use bolts or new rivets?


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I popped out the rivet after breaking many drill bits.
Used bolts to put everything back into place. Over tightened.
 
I took the ford part number for the rivets and fastenal has an interchange for them. They are peel type rivets. Need to be because the type that expand would break the glass.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I took the ford part number for the rivets and fastenal has an interchange for them. They are peel type rivets. Need to be because the type that expand would break the glass.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Need to be peel type rivets? Or need to be rivets not bolts?
 
Need to be peel type rivets? Or need to be rivets not bolts?



Need to be peel type rivets. Others have used bolts no problem, but I like to do it the OEM way. Plus I don’t have to worry about a bolt coming loose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
We'll see what the glass repair guy does. Figured I've already busted one window, might as well let a pro take it from here. Looks like getting a new window in there is actually not that complicated, but is it worth the risk for me? I dunno.
 
Last edited:
The pop up motors are probably junk. I took apart the ones on a Jeep and revived 3 outta 4. The advice to take apart one in a JY is good. BTDT harvesting parts. Don't be too upset, almost everything I tried the first time,didn't go well. :D
 

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