kerosene flush?

[trommy]

No oil pressure/Kerosene flush

Kerosene flush?
Before my buddy's 49 Ford Custom was given to him,his uncles used kerosene mixed with oil to flush/clean the engine after sitting in their father's garage for 20 yr.They drove it around town like this also.He thinks this might work with my problem ("sounds like a diesel",no oil pressure showing) of a probable plugged oil pickup screen,at least restoring oil flow until warmer weather.I drove it home from Amherst like this (25 mi) so there must be some oil still getting up top.Anybody have any experience or know of a similar situation.Also,is Seafoam available in Canada?Thanks guys.
PS:The plan being to drain the oil and examine it for metal,cork,etc.Then repeating the same procedure.

Also,when he had the engine and trany rebuilt,he was told that the engine was extremely clean when dismanteled.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Back in the day we used to do the diesel fuel flush if you wanted to quiet the motor down for a quick sale. I works great for a short time then the engine needs to be trashed. You can use fuel in the pan only to dissolve the crud on the suction tube and screen but never run the engine with fuel in the oil. I hope it is not too late but using seafoam or my favorite is ATF. Put about 1/2 a quart ATF or a can of seafoam in the engine about 100 miles before you change the oil and filter. it will dissolve the sludge built up in it and still lubricate the engine. Also change the PCV and breather filter regularly keeps it clean.

 

[trommy]

Thanks Kim.I just found this on google:
NOTE:This is from someone else.That means its not from me!

"Ok I finished it all up. Went down to the local gas station and filled up a 5 gallon can of kerosene. Needed some for my heater anyway.

Used 1 quart of kerosene for the flush. Bought 6 quarts of Motorcraft 5w30 and MC filter. My truck takes 5 quarts but I used the 6th quart to help drain any excess kerosene out of motor. I left the drain plug out for this part.

Truck ran fine with the kerosene in. Just let it idled for approx. 10 mins. Never made any funny noises, smells etc...

Man when I did drain the kerosene, holy crap!! some unholy black sludge crap come slopping out the drain plug. Not a huge amount but enough to make me say holy **** out loud. I can say for sure the truck does run quieter. My truck used about 1/qt of oil per 1000 miles so I'll keep an eye on the consumption.

Would I reccommend this for every car? probably not because if the vehicle is heavily sludged, I can see how the oil pump screen can get clogged and grenade the engine. Would I reccommend it for preventative maintence? sure! use at your own risk. I wouldn't suggest more than 1qt of kerosene at a time for a flush. -Mike-





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CRinWP Post subject: Re: kerosene engine flush?Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:59 am


New Member


Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:48 am
Posts: 1
My Photos
My Truck Mods
Truck: 1985 F150 XL 4x4 I know this post is two years old but, I found it via Google, while looking for advice and I just wanted to add my experience. I bought a 1986 f-150 XLT Lariat from an ASE certified mechanic who advocated using 1 Qt. of ATF in the crankcase for flush. He always did this to his own vehicles, driving them about 10-20 miles then oil change.

HOWEVER!!: It melted the the sludge and deposits so fast that the chunks clogged the oil pickup and oil-starved the engine causing two spun crank bearings!! Also, when I pulled the engine to fix it, I found the around every bearing race was PLASTIC SLUDGE that the local lab determined was BURNT AND CRYSTALIZED ATF!!

I just wanted to tell the story to lend warning to anyone who might want to just poor a quart or more of ATF in their c-case.

Now that being said, my grandfather, a ASE (before ASE even existed) mechanic who cut his teeth on the Model-T and stayed a mechanic for 50 years, always used ONE CUP OF ATF mixed with ONE CUP OF DIESEL in the old oil and (no load) idled for 20 mins AFTER operating temperature. In this ratio, the petroleum distillates and the detergents are potent but not too potent. Then he always ran a PINT of Marvel Mystery Oil in the new oil. I followed his regiment on my 1976 F150 390 and it MELTED out all of the 1970s Penzoil sludge over about 3 oil changes. When I rebuilt my 390 six months later, it was crystal clean. It had 120,000 miles on it at rebuild."

 

[trommy]

One more google here:
" No not all , bring it to a mechanic if you dont know how to use. In fact, many mechanic use sea foam.

You can find it at Napa but its expensive there. Some shop sell it cheaper.


However, my answer for you question is "There is no mechanic from a bottle"

Cleaning/flushing an old engine may lead to other disaster. If you still insist, here is my "pro" guide for you:

Using kerosene engine flush

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (Starting with a NEW oil filter is recommended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. Let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents, during or just after you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine until it comes out clear...
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. Again if you think it requires, you can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out until it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favourite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until it�s at operating temperature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

Dont try on high mileage cars, in an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thi" (thin?)
Just google " kerosene engine flush".You'll get tons of results.I guess I've answered my own query.

 

[greenpus]

make it easy on yourself and just buy Seafoam. Follow the directions for putting in oil, gas and the PCV system.
With that said I am also going to copy a statement from your own post.
"There is no mechanic from a bottle"
Good luck f.u.c.king up your truck

 

[kimcrwbr1]

One more google here:
" No not all , bring it to a mechanic if you dont know how to use. In fact, many mechanic use sea foam.

You can find it at Napa but its expensive there. Some shop sell it cheaper.


However, my answer for you question is "There is no mechanic from a bottle"

Cleaning/flushing an old engine may lead to other disaster. If you still insist, here is my "pro" guide for you:

Using kerosene engine flush

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (Starting with a NEW oil filter is recommended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. Let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents, during or just after you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine until it comes out clear...
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. Again if you think it requires, you can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out until it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favourite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until it�s at operating temperature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

Dont try on high mileage cars, in an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thi" (thin?)
Just google " kerosene engine flush".You'll get tons of results.I guess I've answered my own query.

Your way 13 steps my way 2 steps with very similar results. Add 1/2 quart of ATF and after 100 miles change the oil on any engine that has been neglected. I think I prefer the way that works for me.

 

[trommy]

I was quoting 'one' of the results from google.Note the quotation marks.

 

[trommy]

make it easy on yourself and just buy Seafoam. Follow the directions for putting in oil, gas and the PCV system.
With that said I am also going to copy a statement from your own post.
"There is no mechanic from a bottle"
Good luck f.u.c.king up your truck

This is also a quote FROM SOMEONE ELSE (not me):
"CRinWP Post subject: Re: kerosene engine flush?Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:59 am


New Member


Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:48 am
Posts: 1
My Photos
My Truck Mods
Truck: 1985 F150 XL 4x4 I know this post is two years old but, I found it via Google, while looking for advice and I just wanted to add my experience. I bought a 1986 f-150 XLT Lariat from an ASE certified mechanic who advocated using 1 Qt. of ATF in the crankcase for flush. He always did this to his own vehicles, driving them about 10-20 miles then oil change.

HOWEVER!!: It melted the the sludge and deposits so fast that the chunks clogged the oil pickup and oil-starved the engine causing two spun crank bearings!! Also, when I pulled the engine to fix it, I found the around every bearing race was PLASTIC SLUDGE that the local lab determined was BURNT AND CRYSTALIZED ATF!!
I just wanted to tell the story to lend warning to anyone who might want to just poor a quart or more of ATF in their c-case.

Now that being said, my grandfather, a ASE (before ASE even existed) mechanic who cut his teeth on the Model-T and stayed a mechanic for 50 years, always used ONE CUP OF ATF mixed with ONE CUP OF DIESEL in the old oil and (no load) idled for 20 mins AFTER operating temperature. In this ratio, the petroleum distillates and the detergents are potent but not too potent. Then he always ran a PINT of Marvel Mystery Oil in the new oil. I followed his regiment on my 1976 F150 390 and it MELTED out all of the 1970s Penzoil sludge over about 3 oil changes. When I rebuilt my 390 six months later, it was crystal clean. It had 120,000 miles on it at rebuild."

 

[trommy]

My son shares a large shop where he does mechanical/body work/ATV's on the side.He has facilities there,120 mi away.I have back problems so I will help him do it I guess.I'm doing a kerosene flush/soak in desperation hopeing to disolve what's plugging the screen.I drained 1 L oil out and added 1L diesel and ran it for10 min,shutting it off 3 times and allowing it to depressurize for about 1 min each time.The first time I shut it off and restarted it the oil needle came up to normal momentairly only to fall again.I'm letting it set overnight;maybe it will disolve the crud and restore oil flow enough to get me through to April?It's too cold to do any serious mechanical work outside right now.

 

[trommy]

From a google search:

"I have a 1989 2.3L Ranger 5 speed with 103000 miles. From the day it
was brought home it only used Mobil 1 oil which was religiously changed
along with the filter every 3000 miles. One month ago I experienced
the same problem and this weekend I finally got around to investigating
why. What I discovered was interesting. The Ford factory manual
misled me stating the engine could be jacked up, blocked, and the oil
pan removed from behind. NO. I actually had to separate the engine &
trans, remove the rad, and and pick the engine up about 8 inches. Then
the oil pan could be removed from the front. Inside the pan was
factory new clean, absolutely no build up. Thank you Mobil 1. But the
oil pickup strainer was clogged with small pieces of black rubbery
material. Also the oil pan gasket appeared shredded at the edges. My
assumption is that the factory oil pan gasket deteriorated, the small
pieces fell into the pan, were drawn into the strainer, and clogged it.
It took some time to carefully scrape & dig the chunks out of the
strainer then clean it in a methylene chloride based solvent (it
evaporates oils). As a precaution I purchased a new oil pump too.
And yes it is mechanically shaft driven. To the point the factory pan
gasket was the culprit. Perhaps this will help your situation."

Hopefully this thread will help someone else.

 

[trommy]

This guy(from another site) seems to know engines:

" 12-19-2009, 10:23 AM
86bigred
Posting Guru
1986 Ford F-250
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: patricia ab canada
Posts: 1,388


What I have done was drain the oil,fill the crank case with diesel fuel,fire the engine up and let it idle until it gets to operating temp,shut it off drain pan fill with oil and new filter.

Beware though that diesel will clean you internals,and mayclean sludge that is sealing the engine right now and with the internal cleaning you will get oil leaks, so be prepared to replace gaskets.I know this won't hurt your bearings. Had a big truck with a weaping injector while driving down the high way , and did this to an old 79 f250 with a 400 about 12 years ago and she's still going today.
__________________
81 f150 302 4 sp od daily driver
86 f250 460 t19 4x4
67 ramber rouge 232 I6
68 pontiac paresenne 305 turbo 400
1975 diplomat motorhome 440ci "

 

[lordkyleofearth]

Why not drop the oil pan and go from there. The oil pan gaskets can deteriorate and clog the intake tube/screen. Take the pan off and go from there