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doorgunner
Lab Rat for V.A. hospital
U.S. Military - Veteran
2009 Truck of The Year
MTOTM Winner
V8 Engine Swap
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2008
- Messages
- 12,791
- Points
- 3,101
- Vehicle Year
- 1934/1989
- Engine
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Lift
- N/A
- Total Drop
- 3/4
- Tire Size
- 23570R15
- My credo
- JESUS Loves Ya!
*****2022 EDIT...SINCE PHOTOBUCKET DELETED ALL MY PICS I AM REPOSTING MORE PICS******
Sub Thread...2.9L to SBC Engine Swap continued
Now I understand why a 1/4" thick flat adapter plate needs to be made to "move" the passenger's motor mount 3" forward on the engine crossmember.....
My mistake!!!.....Adapter plate needs to be 7" x 7" instead of 6" x 6".....It's a good thing the guys told me about fabricating a plate............
The driver's side motor mount is about 5/8" rearward on the crossmember.....close enough for me....but I will need to trim about 3/8" off the top front corner of the motor mount next to the steering rag-joint for clearance.....
Mounting holes have been drilled thru adapter plate wwith a 14" long drill(bit) using OEM x-member motor mount holes as guides for the 2 new holes in the adapter plate/bolts have been put in & wrencFriday!!!...Alright.......let's do the easiest thing first til the meds wear off....
the drivers side Block-Hugger Header needs 1/2" clearance at the engine x-member & at the top of the frame rail......probably 30 minutes of trimming metal.....
I ended up removing the top corner of the clamshell to give the front tube of the header 3/4" clearance & removed 1/2" off the top of the framerail to give 1" clearance at the 2 middle tubes.....
Now I don't need 5 hands & a pry-bar...the header drops into place!!!
Back to the go-rajjjjj......Time to move the pwer steering pump up a few inches.....
Good news...I only have to move it up 2"...if I cut out the piece of bracket painted white....I can reposition the pump to clear the adjusting nut/screw on the steering housing....
Annnnd....since the '36 Ranger grill is 2 feet narrower (RangerSportHonduras hates when I say that!) I will also be able to get the large steering-pump pulley inside the left-side engine cowl......
1 hour later......accessory bracket is removed & cuts are made........
Back to the go-rajjjj...... slap it all back together......sitck the pump in place.....& if it all fits....
....more picks in an hour....
It fits!.....here's a couple pics of the complteted modification....
back to the go-rajjj.....fan is on....serpentine is on.....radiator is on....gallon of gas is connected to carb....guess what's gettin cranked up first thang in the morning........
OOOOPs....since I mis-placed the smog pump...so I added an idler pulley in place of it (until I pick up another pump) to get the right tension on the nearly new serpentine belt instead of buying a shorter belt...
It runnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnns!......It runnnnnnnnnnnnnns!........tomorrow...exhaust hook-up/modifications!!!!!!!....might even do the driveshaft hybridization with a Chevy yoke on the xmsn end///Ford U-Joint on the tail end (did too much road-runnin for Precious today to git anything accomplished/maybe she won't find this)......
REDTI: The first video downloaded for an hour!!!but wouldn't play.....
....I tried again in the dark & got some good flame shots outta the headers, but the computer sayyyyyyyed it wasn't compatable with the camera 
Sunday...
I'm just laying back todaay.....I bought a pressure regulator (but everybody was sold out of "return style" reg's)....I bought a few brass fittings and made a return port with a internal pressure reducer (the cone-shaped piece) that will fit inside the return line to the tank.
The left side of the Reg. is the carb side....The top right fitting is for the OEM '89Ranger electric fuel pump line...the cone fitting is for the tank-return line...
The tank plumbing is done to & from the carb......pressure guage.......inline clear fuel filter.....regulator.....
I drilled thru the cone shaped brass plug and pressurized the fuel system...a .040 drill(bit) wasn't large enough/it still had 50 lbs. of pressure...
It took 2 more times with larger drills each time to get the pressure to 8psi at the guage(carb fitting) .060" diameter I think?
The wiring gave me 3 headaches at one time......so I'm going to do the driveshaft....cutting the rivets off to remove the d-shaft support brace....
Looks like I've got to lengthen the sbc shaft about 15".....
I used a radiator clamp as a guide to cut the driveshafts (I measured from the fixed u-joint eyes & tightened the hoseclamp in place to make the cut....
I measured how much OEM ranger shaft i needed and added 6" to that length (the 6" extra will slide into the larger sbc shaft until I have 65" total from the SBC xmsn end u-joint to the OEM Ranger add-on tail-section u-joint....
Continued...........................maybe reposting all the deleted pics won't take 6 months...Waaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahaha...
Sub Thread...2.9L to SBC Engine Swap continued
Now I understand why a 1/4" thick flat adapter plate needs to be made to "move" the passenger's motor mount 3" forward on the engine crossmember.....
My mistake!!!.....Adapter plate needs to be 7" x 7" instead of 6" x 6".....It's a good thing the guys told me about fabricating a plate............
The driver's side motor mount is about 5/8" rearward on the crossmember.....close enough for me....but I will need to trim about 3/8" off the top front corner of the motor mount next to the steering rag-joint for clearance.....
Mounting holes have been drilled thru adapter plate wwith a 14" long drill(bit) using OEM x-member motor mount holes as guides for the 2 new holes in the adapter plate/bolts have been put in & wrencFriday!!!...Alright.......let's do the easiest thing first til the meds wear off....
the drivers side Block-Hugger Header needs 1/2" clearance at the engine x-member & at the top of the frame rail......probably 30 minutes of trimming metal.....
I ended up removing the top corner of the clamshell to give the front tube of the header 3/4" clearance & removed 1/2" off the top of the framerail to give 1" clearance at the 2 middle tubes.....
Now I don't need 5 hands & a pry-bar...the header drops into place!!!
Back to the go-rajjjjj......Time to move the pwer steering pump up a few inches.....
Good news...I only have to move it up 2"...if I cut out the piece of bracket painted white....I can reposition the pump to clear the adjusting nut/screw on the steering housing....
Annnnd....since the '36 Ranger grill is 2 feet narrower (RangerSportHonduras hates when I say that!) I will also be able to get the large steering-pump pulley inside the left-side engine cowl......
1 hour later......accessory bracket is removed & cuts are made........
Back to the go-rajjjj...... slap it all back together......sitck the pump in place.....& if it all fits....
....more picks in an hour....It fits!.....here's a couple pics of the complteted modification....
back to the go-rajjj.....fan is on....serpentine is on.....radiator is on....gallon of gas is connected to carb....guess what's gettin cranked up first thang in the morning........
OOOOPs....since I mis-placed the smog pump...so I added an idler pulley in place of it (until I pick up another pump) to get the right tension on the nearly new serpentine belt instead of buying a shorter belt...
It runnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnns!......It runnnnnnnnnnnnnns!........tomorrow...exhaust hook-up/modifications!!!!!!!....might even do the driveshaft hybridization with a Chevy yoke on the xmsn end///Ford U-Joint on the tail end (did too much road-runnin for Precious today to git anything accomplished/maybe she won't find this)......
REDTI: The first video downloaded for an hour!!!but wouldn't play.....
....I tried again in the dark & got some good flame shots outta the headers, but the computer sayyyyyyyed it wasn't compatable with the camera Sunday...
I'm just laying back todaay.....I bought a pressure regulator (but everybody was sold out of "return style" reg's)....I bought a few brass fittings and made a return port with a internal pressure reducer (the cone-shaped piece) that will fit inside the return line to the tank.
The left side of the Reg. is the carb side....The top right fitting is for the OEM '89Ranger electric fuel pump line...the cone fitting is for the tank-return line...
The tank plumbing is done to & from the carb......pressure guage.......inline clear fuel filter.....regulator.....
I drilled thru the cone shaped brass plug and pressurized the fuel system...a .040 drill(bit) wasn't large enough/it still had 50 lbs. of pressure...
It took 2 more times with larger drills each time to get the pressure to 8psi at the guage(carb fitting) .060" diameter I think?
The wiring gave me 3 headaches at one time......so I'm going to do the driveshaft....cutting the rivets off to remove the d-shaft support brace....
Looks like I've got to lengthen the sbc shaft about 15".....
I used a radiator clamp as a guide to cut the driveshafts (I measured from the fixed u-joint eyes & tightened the hoseclamp in place to make the cut....
I measured how much OEM ranger shaft i needed and added 6" to that length (the 6" extra will slide into the larger sbc shaft until I have 65" total from the SBC xmsn end u-joint to the OEM Ranger add-on tail-section u-joint....
Continued...........................maybe reposting all the deleted pics won't take 6 months...Waaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahaha...
Last edited:
Coming along nice, mate.
