just got my 1995 ranger smoged today and EVAP pressure test failed

[4byRANGER]

welll now i ahve to change my gas filler neck out for a new one.. the old one is cracked somewhere, but my question is.. whats the easiest way to deal with this problem?? cause i dont have "$375.00" to spend after the smog shop ripped me off $60

 

[KELLY88]

welll now i ahve to change my gas filler neck out for a new one.. the old one is cracked somewhere, but my question is.. whats the easiest way to deal with this problem?? cause i dont have "$375.00" to spend after the smog shop ripped me off $60

If you don't have the flareside bed then you can order one of these

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/FuelTankFillerNeck/Ford/Ranger

Otherwise you might be able to pick one up from a junkyard but even those could easily be cracked. For a temporary fix you could pull the bed, find the crack and fill it with RTV. This seems to be a common problem on Rangers. My filler neck cracked and had to be replaced a few months ago as well.

 

[Southern3.0]

Your best bet is to pull the bed, remove the filler hose and see what kinda crack your dealing with. Ive seen filler hoses repaired with radiator hoses, rtv, and even duct tape. I dont recommended the last one tho.

And I think Napa carrys a 2" diameter hose made for repairing filler tubes.

 

[mountaineergreen]

I just repaired mine with RTV, a section of large hose and two clamps. No pressure test here, I found mine by smelling fuel. Since I don't have to pressure test, I don't know how I can confirm this works, but I don't smell fuel anymore.

 

[4byRANGER]

alright pullin the bed sounds like the best idea to me, my brother works at kragens so ill have him pick me up some new hose and rtv just to make shur..

thanks for the help


{}I just repaired mine with RTV, a section of large hose and two clamps. No pressure test here, I found mine by smelling fuel. Since I don't have to pressure test{}

it seems like it will work, california has this stupid emission test now where they pressurize the gas tank. smog master told me 90% of the model 97 and older rangers fail cause of the fuel neck cracking.. but id rather replace it than have my gas splashing all over my truck when im out wheelin.. paying $4.80 for premium sucks.. ive never had to spend $83 on a tank of gas then lose a gallon cause of the crack in the fuel neck

 

[fixizin]

So am I hearing that not just the rubber hose, but that sometimes the METAL NECK cracks? Fook Mi!

SO... what's a good price for just the rubber hose?

PS: I don't think coolant hose is rated for fuel... no smoking in any event, lol.

 

[mountaineergreen]

My rubber was all that was cracked.

I used rubber hose rated for fuel from NAPA.

 

[MAKG]

Umm, guys, RTV doesn't withstand gasoline. Try it with an eyedropper if you don't believe me. It rolls up into a little ball.

You MIGHT find a good filler hose in the junkyard.

 

[mountaineergreen]

The filler neck on mine was only used in a few years from what I understand, and the stepside model is hard to find parts for. I contacted a salvage yard looking for one and they said they all are cracked- it only makes sense. The place on mine is never submerged in fuel, the outer hose is only for venting fumes when fueling. I put my "patch" on over my hose, let it cure for 2-3 hours, then put the bed on, drove it a few days, then filled up- it didn't/hasn't leaked. I couldn't find a product that indicated it was recommended for use with fuels.

 

[dorman68]

fuel filler neck

Hello,

I had to replace the fuel pump on my 1992 Ranger. It was much easier to remove the bed than it was to crawl underneath and deal with rust fuel tank mounting bolts. The bed bolts were a little stubborn, after applying heat for a few minutes with a propane torch they were relatively easy to remove. While I had the bed off I noticed the typical rotted fuel filler hose and that my rear shocks were also very rusted, replacing these items were a breeze with the bed off. The bolts were questionable. The dealer ones were expensive. I tried to find if anyone offered a bed bolt kit but I had no success. I ended up cleaning the threads up and treating them with an anti seize compound. I definitely recommend removing the bed. The only draw back is that the bed bolts may seize up and snap. I would like to go back when I get a chance and install new bolts but not from the expensive Ford dealer.

 

[fixizin]

Hello,

I had to replace the fuel pump on my 1992 Ranger. It was much easier to remove the bed than it was to crawl underneath and deal with rust fuel tank mounting bolts...

That seems to be the consensus. Good idea on the anti-seize treatment.

I have a couple excellent specialty bolt/fastener houses in my town... is there something exotic about the bed bolts? Did you take pics? I hate paying the Ford dealer hosers for their overpriced shyt too.

Also, are there bed-to-frame bushings involved? Thanks in advance.

 

[mountaineergreen]

I soaked my bolts with PB Blaster, had to use a breaker bar to break then loose, then an impact to run them out. PB Blaster works miracles on rust, let it soak for a day or two, try repeated soakings.

No bushings, the bed bolts directly to the frame.

The bed is far easier to remove than dropping the fuel tank. Remove the tailgate and don't forget to disconnect the tail lights.