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Just bought my first Bronco II.


I enjoy driving a car a lot more when I get a good deal.

As far as the windows check the fuses is there power to the fuses?I there power going into the switches coming out of the switches?Make sure there is power to the motors before you replace them.
 
Does the power window motor makes any sound when pressing the switches? If not, switches could be bad. If you do here the motor spinning, it just could be only the rubbery plastic pucks need to be replaced. The easiest way to get the motors out is to drill three 1/2" holes on the inner door metal panel inline with the motor mounting bolts.
(unibit works best) Most parts store should have the pucks. You need 3 per side.
As for the flexplate, Ford has a service bulltin on this problem. The replacement Ford flexplate is a ripoff. Transmission USA in Florida have new ones for $25.00 - $30.00. You'd be better off with a M5OD swap. You got a very good deal.
Also check to see what driveshaft you have. If you have the CV joints change it to the U-joint driveshaft. A CV joint driveshaft will leave you stranded when you least expect it. Same goes for a A4LD trans.
 
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Personally I've never had an issue with the a4ld. I have a thread on here that's titled "why hate on the a4ld" or something like that. Because I have two vehicles with it an have never had transmission problems caused by the transmission. (my vss was the issue not the trans) but I will agree on the cv driveshaft. I broke 2 of them. 1 was just normal driving with the 2.9, the other was me playing with 4.0 power. Drove home in 4wd as a Fwd both times lol
 
its possible to remove the power windows motor but is a pain.I eventually drilled the holes in the shell after removing and replacing the driver door motor with shitty JY units.
 
Well i hope this rig turns out to be reliable...i plan on it being my commuter during the winter to the nuclear site i work at....but i also plan on taking it hunting and scouting every year. I'm worried it will leave me out in the middle of nowhere without cell phone reception and in very rough terrain. If the flex plate shatters any place remotely close to where i hunt it will more than likely be left there to die.....so i don't want that to happen. I guess i'm going to just end up getting the ford flex plate and a sonnax spacer...is there a site for the ford flexplate i wasnt able to find it. If anyone finds it send me a link please....thanks
 
Welcome

You have come to the right place, TheRangerStation is the best resource for your new toy. I'll speak from experience by telling you to go slow, fix what needs fixing (fix it right), and enjoy driving it. Upgrade later.
You have a capable 4X4 that is nimble, Don't try to use it as a rock crawlin tube buggy w/stock drivetrain. When (IF) you do get to where you want more strength and power, there is a wealth of knowledge about swapping in axles and engines and trannies here.
Read the articles in the Tech Library and search the forums for topics you don't see there.
ENJOY :icon_thumby:
 
the best fix to your trans problem is a md05 from a 2.9 ranger or 4.0...
then do a 8.8 rear axle swap and d35 front.. if you plan on doing much rough terrain. the d28 has broke for me on 30's in red clay. i was on the skinny pedal tho! lol.
 
shouldnt be too hard to get her running right. back to basics.... id say start with new spark plugs and wires, clean out your intake system really good. fuel filter ( basically a tune up) get a fuel system cleaner, ill try to find the name of the one we got at the shop, you hook it up to a open vacuum port and set the throtlle in neutral to about 2500 rpm, burns out all the old funk in there. check to make sure all your vaccuum lines are hooked up. i know when i bought mine most of them were just wide open, my truck would idle at like 1300 rpm, now its about back to the original ford set 800 just from routing the hoses. cant say much on the tranny, i got a 5 speed. but anyways, its amazing what a little tlc will do for your ride. just my opinion
 

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