Just bought a truck, need tranny help!

[rangerlocal]

Hi guys! First post, so I'll introduce myself. I've been lurking around a bit and doing some reading, but I just now got to purchase a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0l V6 2WD automatic from a friend. It's got 147000 miles, and is clean as a whistle. On a side note, I'm in the Piedmont of NC, so shoutout to all the other North Carolinians on here!

Onward to the question. I'll try to be as specific as I can. So it is a 4r44e, from what I've read, and is 2WD. The transmission will not shift up on acceleration. It will only upshift when I let off of the accelerator, then it will gently shift to the next gear. The overdrive lockout button has no effect when pressed, and according to my friend, when the truck reaches about 45 mph, the O/D light flashes. I know this is limp mode. There are no CEL's. His code scanner also picked up no stored codes, but I don't think it could pick up stored transmission codes. It enters every gear, but it doesn't have a tach and it's hard to hear over the engine. Fluid level is fine, smells a little weird but I think it's just old.

So where should I start? He thinks it's the torque converter, but that doesn't sound like the symptoms to me. It sounds to me like it may need a band adjustment or have a broken/bent/worn out band, or have blown out the valve body gasket, or needs a new valve body. So my questions from other posts on here are:

1. What do you guys think?
2. Does this sound like a band issue or valve body gasket issue, and are the 2000 models prone to this gasket blowing out like the 90's models?
3. If you do think it's the valve body itself, where should I pick one up? I know someone on here said they got one for $240 with a new solenoid pack with it.

I hope I'm not in for a rebuild, I don't really have the time for that right now. I don't want to drive it if I can help it, but I can get it to a dealer and have them check the codes if it isn't blatantly obvious what the problem may be. Thanks in advance everybody! I appreciate any and all help!

 

[RangerSVT]

Did you try shifting it manually? Try starting off with the lever in first, od off, then accelerate, manually shifting into second, then third, then od...


SVT

 

[Explorin94]

First off a normal engine code reader will not read the transmission codes. You will need to take it to the Dealership or a good Shop to get the transmission codes. The O/D light is flashing cause there are stored codes stored. Find out what those are and go from there.

 

[rangerlocal]

Thanks for the replies guys.

@SVT, yes, I tried shifting manually it still does the same behavior. I still have to let off the gas for it to fall into the next gear, which led me to believe it was a loose or worn out band. I don't think it is a broken band, since it does go into all the gears. I'm going to try an adjustment probably this weekend when I have time and see if it helps. I'll post back results.

@Explorer, yea, I know his reader won't pull the codes. I have a friend at a local dealership that can pull them for me, but I didn't want to drive it more than I had to until I got the kinks worked out. I just hope I don't need a new valve body, or much worse, a total rebuild.

Thanks for the replies guys! Everyone over at Ford Ranger Forums ignored me, and you guys replied within half an hour! I think I know which forum I need to be a part of.

 

[AngryLepercon]

When my O/D light was flashing it was as the trans shop said "shattered torque converter"

 

[RangerSVT]

Sounds like you have a low line pressure. I would suspect a valve body issue, possibly a failed gasket or stuck bypass spring. And yeah, TRS is just better than the rest of those guys


SVT

 

[rangerlocal]

Cool. I was planning on putting in a shift kit and replacing the separator plate and gasket while I was in there for good measure. I might as well while I have the pan off. What are your thoughts on the torque converter being bad? I usually thought a bad converter had a shudder to it, and I have yet to experience that. But then again, some people have reported these symptoms with it. I hear a slight rattle when it idles, and I'm wondering if it may be a broken stator inside the converter. I don't think it sounds like it, it sounds more like the normal exhaust note from these 3.0 engines (I had one in a Taurus), but then again, I've never heard a stator flop around inside a converter.

 

[rangerlocal]

Almost forgot, with regards to the manual shifting, my O/D button doesn't work. When I press it, the O/D off light doesn't come on. I don't know if this has to do with something broken in the transmission, or maybe the wiring to the switch. I've heard of the wires in the column getting cut, but mine is not a tilt steering column, so I don't know if that could be the culprit. Any thoughts?

 

[adsm08]

I agree, sounds like low line pressure. I'd do a mechanical pressure test first. If it is correct or close, I'd adjust the bands, if it is low, I'd dumps some cleaner in it and get the system flushed. If it is still low, probably needs a new EPC solenoid.

 

[rangerlocal]

Thanks for the reply adsm. I forgot to mention it also takes about 3 seconds to shift from park to reverse or drive, so it does sound like low pressure. Do these tend to blow the separator plate gasket like the 5 speeds do? I wonder if I should check the valve body gasket or just leave it be.

 

[RangerSVT]

Do a pressure test first, that will tell you if its the valve body/epc solenoids or something else internal...

SVT

 

[rangerlocal]

Getting my buddy at the dealer to pull the codes Saturday morning. Will post back with the results and diagnosis!

 

[rangerlocal]

So a little update, I haven't had a chance to get the codes pulled yet (obviously because it isn't Saturday), but I did get my scangauge xgauge for torque converter line pressure to work. It seems in park I have about 35 psi, and in drive/reverse/2/1, I have 25 psi. When revving in drive, it does up to about 47 psi (I didn't rev past that in gear because the tires start spinning!). I wanted to do a torque converter stall test, but I can't because the rear end gets loose before I hit the 2800-3300 rpm stall speed.

I'm not sure what the exact values should be for pressure, but I think these are a bit low...anyone with correct range values chime in!

EDIT: I suppose these are EPC sensor pressure values since I read them with a scangauge and not actual line pressure values. I need to procure a pressure gauge and adapter I suppose. But I figured I'd throw these values out there for the sensor. Seems to be working...which is actually a disappointment...

 

[rangerlocal]

Ok guys, here's the deal.

So I got the codes pulled, and they came up as P0732 and P1756. The 732 code google search says "Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio" and the 1756 code is "No. 2 Shift Solenoid Performance". I pulled the pan, didn't see any broken pieces of anything, but I did see some metal pieces about the size of the head of a pin, and some black flakes. All in all, not a whole lot of stuff, but enough to make me cautious. Fluid was not burnt. Pictures of what came out are attached for your viewing pleasure!

I tested the solenoids with a multimeter. All shift solenoids were 30 ohms, the TCC was 13 ohms, and the EPC was 7 ohms. From what I've gathered, the range should be:

SSA, SSB, SSC, SSD = 22-48 ohms
EPC = 3.1-5.7 ohms
TCC = 8.9-16 ohms

So I assume the EPC is probably on its way out since it tested at 7 ohms, which I suspected for such a high mileage transmission. I have ordered the updated separator plate from my dealership, and I'm going to buy a new EPC solenoid and shift kit online. The only thing that is weird to me is the P1756 code telling me the SSB solenoid is bad, when it tested the same resistance as all the others. Maybe it's just a side effect of the 2nd gear incorrect ratio code. Also, is there a way to tell if a band is trashed? I would expect to see more debris in the pan if it was, but I could be wrong.

So what does this tell you guys in your infinite wisdom?

 

[RangerSVT]

As you have found out, the epc solenoid is the culprit, and it would also cause the other solenoids to appear to work incorrectly(at least throw other codes). I'd do the mods you have listed and retest...

SVT