Just bought a 4d55t truck, some questions...

[Oh2Ranger]

Stoked!

 

[ericlerouge]

well, the engine is running. i had electrical issues before i figured out the battery ground wasn't connected to the engine. Started the second try. exhaust is quiet, clutch is blead. i still have to bleed the brakes. front bleeders are stuck, i'll have to bleed from the line. I have yet to put back the dash together. Still working on it...

 

[ericlerouge]

short vid

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/838/wjjvjqhdeltubsmsvbaedl.mp4/

 

[Oh2Ranger]

Good job man, it sounds real good. Just like it should, healthy. Have you played with the pump at all? (fuel srew/boost enrich/tiiming at all) I've been doing reading on some of that and there is a lot to know. Where are you planning to probe your EGT? I'm drilling mine in the exhaust manifold.

 

[ericlerouge]

Thanks man. It's really rewarding to ear this thing runs!

I didn't play with the pump at all. I have some reading to do too. It'll be interesting to share our stuff. I have a couple of web pages saved but i didnt study them yet.

I don't know yet about egt. Is there a benefit to have it on the manifold? closer to the head, i figure?

I just drove the truck to get it in my backyard. feels like it could turn 32s or even 33s without problem. I think the torque band (if there is such a thing) helps a lot in first and second. And i think i could benefit from larger tires on highway to get the rpm lower.

 

[ericlerouge]

Well, the first test drive was yesterday. Seems to lack a bit of power at highway speed (i'll have to use my gps to monitor my real speed) the speedo is off. It leaks fuel at the injection pump (known condition) i'll have someone fix that. but it runs and drive! and should be pretty easy on fuel...

the fuel heater wasn't connected in the video, it starts really good now.

 

[Oh2Ranger]

Yeah, from what I understand, the EGT sensor should be mounted in the exhaust manifold. There it will show the most accurate readings of the temperature of the exhaust gasses leaving the head. The reason I ask, is many (most) people tap in the down pipe (post turbo) because it is easier to do. I've read that the readings can differ 200 - 300 degrees (Fahrenheit) Because of this, it can be difficult comparing EGT temps to people when their sensors are located in different locations on the exhaust.

I just looked at my pump, and the fuel screw looks like it has some room to give a little more power. It looks like it has been set very conservatively (on mine). On the fuel screw, from the factory, they spot welded a collar on so that you can't turn the power up very high (cummins did this too with the 5.9 except they weren't spot welded). There is another guy I talk to who has done the swap like you into a 88 ranger?.. anyway he was able to grind off his and turn it up a few screws. Mine looks like it is about 2 turns or so from the collar right now. Ill probably turn it to that collar and evaluate if I should make an effort to remove the collar like the other guy or if I'll be satisfied with the power.

Oh and if your injection pump is leaking externally from the body, you can buy seal kits inexpensively and slap them in yourself without getting too involved I've been told. I got mine rebuilt (it looked like it had been leaking out of every surface and rolled in dirt) and installed. If you do take it off, I have all the instructions on setting the pump timing (was easy to do) if you need em`

Were you able to drive the truck you used as a doner? so you have something to compare it to?

 

[ericlerouge]

Yeah, from what I understand, the EGT sensor should be mounted in the exhaust manifold. There it will show the most accurate readings of the temperature of the exhaust gasses leaving the head. The reason I ask, is many (most) people tap in the down pipe (post turbo) because it is easier to do. I've read that the readings can differ 200 - 300 degrees (Fahrenheit) Because of this, it can be difficult comparing EGT temps to people when their sensors are located in different locations on the exhaust.

ok, something to thinker about. What i tought was plumbing egt and hooking up boost gauge on my truck before any modifications and monitor the temps i get in various situations. Then add the intercooler and boost controller and play with the pump. That way i'll have the safe numbers to compare to.

I just looked at my pump, and the fuel screw looks like it has some room to give a little more power. It looks like it has been set very conservatively (on mine). On the fuel screw, from the factory, they spot welded a collar on so that you can't turn the power up very high (cummins did this too with the 5.9 except they weren't spot welded). There is another guy I talk to who has done the swap like you into a 88 ranger?.. anyway he was able to grind off his and turn it up a few screws. Mine looks like it is about 2 turns or so from the collar right now. Ill probably turn it to that collar and evaluate if I should make an effort to remove the collar like the other guy or if I'll be satisfied with the power.

]I've read somewhere that one should turn the fuel screw by 1/4 turn increment? I'm not familiar with diesel tuning, this is just a write up on the ve type pump i saved.[/COLOR]

Oh and if your injection pump is leaking externally from the body, you can buy seal kits inexpensively and slap them in yourself without getting too involved I've been told. I got mine rebuilt (it looked like it had been leaking out of every surface and rolled in dirt) and installed. If you do take it off, I have all the instructions on setting the pump timing (was easy to do) if you need em`

It leaks from the top (at least) i got fuel dripping all over that side of the engine. I know a mechanic that still drives those trucks (he has like three) He told me he could get bushings fabricated and put them on to stop the leak. I think i'll have him do the timing belt and pump (rebuild pump if necessary)

Were you able to drive the truck you used as a doner? so you have something to compare it to?

I drove it in the middle of a snow storm for a 150 km trip on the highway. I had the same set of tires. From what i recalled, i could hit 110 km/h ON THE SPEEDO, wich means about 120 km/h (tire size difference from stock).

I'm nowhere near that. My speedo is off by about 20 km/h (with the gps) and i hardly hit 102 km/h (gps). That would be going from 3.45 to 3.73.

one thing i have to check is that the throttle cable goes all the way to the full throttle stopper on the pump.

Going to 32s or 33s is an option, and upgrade to intercooler and boost controller, of course. I have a bigger turbo, too but i won't do it if i'm happy with the td-09 results.

 

[Oh2Ranger]

Changing the speedometer gear is easy, I'm sure you are aware. That will correct your speedometer issues. There is a formula on the site of determining the right size with your ratio/tires.


What is the other turbo that you have other that the TD04? Is it mitsubishi? You would have to custom make a exhaust manifold for it?

 

[ericlerouge]

where do i buy a speedo gear for the ranger? dealer?

The turbo i got is from a turbocoupe t-bird. i would just need an adapter from the exhaust manifold to the turbo assembly, brackets from the block and a new exhaust system all the way to the back. That won't be done over the week end!!!

major electrical issue today. I played with the connector from the fuel heater cause it's not working all the time. (maybe it's normal?) anyway, i was pulling out of my driveway in reverse and i didnt give enough fuel, the engine stalled. I tried to restart, the computer cliked two times, no lights in the dash, then nothing AT ALL!!! I think i fried something when my battery was incorrectly grounded (little electrical smoke under the hood and behind the fuse panel...)

I'm not in the mood to play with it today, i'll check that later... (i think the 2 fusible links are blown)

 

[Oh2Ranger]

Yeah, the dealerships are a good place to go (at least for this part) I picked one up on Saturday, 8.50 for 1. I needed to go from a 17 tooth to a 19. They are able to be found in Junkyards too.. but that is your call. It didn't bother me to buy a new one.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Speedogear.html

Your fuel heater should be live anytime the ignition is on via a RED/LT GREEN wire from Fuse Link H.

Its possible that your fusible links are bad, they do control and power much of the accessories. When you say "nothing at all" are you saying that you can't get ANYTHING to work? Lights.. Horn.. Dome.. Radio.. etc?

 

[ericlerouge]

Nothing at all, they blew one shortly after the other, both fusible links, i think. And i think i did wire the fuel heater wrong. I'll chck that this morning.

thanks for the link

 

[Oh2Ranger]

Let me know what you find out, I'll try to help you sort through it if you need it.

 

[ericlerouge]

Well fusible links tested good. I'm going to remove the dashboard tomorrow. I changed the ignition switch with no result. I have power to everything by short bursts and then nothing anywhere. It's a main circuit that powers everything that is faulty from the ignition switch to ??? fuse box? all the fuses seems good. i don't have a complete diagram to work with.

 

[Oh2Ranger]

I got ya man, I'll get you a diagram tonight. We will get this figured out.

I'm working on mine in the garage right now, when I come in tonight I'll see what we can dig up. (it's 5:00 here)