junkyard sas

[swynx]

been thinkin about doin an sas on a rig for quite awhile.

my girlfriends dad owns a junkyard and gets tons of full size truck in all the time. i can buy an entire rig right after he gets it in and untouched by him for about 500$ and take any thing i want off it and return it when im done with it.

if i bought a full size truck from him how much do you assume it would cost me to do an sas swap. im talking just the swap itself.

im asking this because i hear about it costing ppl 3000$ - 5000$ to do an sas. im assuming thats the cost to completely rebuild the axle, with new gears, seals, lockers, the works right? id have to have her dad build me the axle perch? i think its called to mount the leafs, or i could buy one for like 150$

im just wondering what the cost for me would be?

im only looking to run 35 maybe 37 inch tires at most, the truck i sas wont be a daily driver, but i do want it to be streetable as i will be driving it to the trail.

 

[03ranger30]

Gears are probably the most expensive part, besides the tires, unless you can put them in yourself. I have heard its around $1000 to get someone to do your gears (including parts).

 

[swynx]

Gears are probably the most expensive part, besides the tires, unless you can put them in yourself. I have heard its around $1000 to get someone to do your gears (including parts).

ive never gotten a quote for gears, but i got an ase certified mechanic friend that will do them for me for 100$ and a 6 pack, im assuming that additional parts such as gears, lockers, seals, bearings, is the expensive part.

just looking for someone to clarify the general price of things.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

not sure about the cost of doing an SAS, but I know that it can add up quick. I'm swapping to a D-35 in my choptop, rebuilding the axle hub to hub and building new long arms with new mounts. Even though I got the axle itself for $10 and a pumpkin with the gears I need for $75, I've thrown another about $350 at the axle plus $275 at the arms and mounts. It's the little crap that really adds up. I thought the bearings, seals, U-joints and stuff were cheap when I priced it out, but then it became $50 here, $100 there when you actually have to pay for it. At least I'm using lifetime warranty parts wherever possible so I will not have that expense in the future....

My straight axles are next on the list for being rebuilt hub to hub.... I just haven't really worked out what it will cost me to do it yet.

 

[swynx]

one thing i know is that once you really get serious with it it starts adding up.

lift it to fit bigger tires, bigger tires means higher gear ratio, while the diff is apart might as well throw in a locker. and while you have it all apart might as well rebuild it. im sure i could just throw a d44 under it from another truck for next to nothing.

 

[Bennybooster]

Find a 78 or 79 bronco or f150, easiest swap for an rbv

 

[86MUDRCJ]

Find a 78 or 79 bronco or f150, easiest swap for an rbv

I've heard that like a million times. Why are those years the easiest?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I've heard that like a million times. Why are those years the easiest?

Coil sprung, high pinion, open knuckle axles that utilized a longer radius arm.

Only thing that might fit with less work would possibly be an early bronco D-44 since they are a narrower axle and closer to the width of our trucks, but good luck finding one for cheap.

 

[chrwilkins30]

not sure about the cost of doing an SAS, but I know that it can add up quick. I'm swapping to a D-35 in my choptop, rebuilding the axle hub to hub and building new long arms with new mounts. Even though I got the axle itself for $10 and a pumpkin with the gears I need for $75, I've thrown another about $350 at the axle plus $275 at the arms and mounts. It's the little crap that really adds up. I thought the bearings, seals, U-joints and stuff were cheap when I priced it out, but then it became $50 here, $100 there when you actually have to pay for it. At least I'm using lifetime warranty parts wherever possible so I will not have that expense in the future....

Shit. I prob have 1500 just in the d35 and 8.8 with gears and all moog parts. It doesn't seem like it would cost that much up front but its all those small things that nickle and dime you will building.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Shit. I prob have 1500 just in the d35 and 8.8 with gears and all moog parts. It doesn't seem like it would cost that much up front but its all those small things that nickle and dime you will building.

lol, yea.... I have an 8.8 that I've been considering putting in my choptop when I regear (but for now I want to be able to drive it for summer and if I don't put a halt to repairs soon, it'll be another year that I don't get to enjoy my toy).

I'm also considering swapping a 4.0L into it too....

 

[chrwilkins30]

I'm also considering swapping a 4.0L into it too....

Yep. After the suspension is all done a 4.0 is going in regardless if the 2.9 still runs or not.

 

[wahlstrom1]

I've heard that like a million times. Why are those years the easiest?

Coil sprung, high pinion, open knuckle axles that utilized a longer radius arm.

So are the 66'-77's.... the 78/79 have disk brakes. The 77 or older have weld on wedges that can easily be brought in to ranger width so the coil perches/radius arms line up with the stock ranger buckets, but you'll need to convert the axle to disk brakes....

The tubes are heavier on the older diffs as well, my 76' F150 housing (now under Andres629's BII) had 1/2" wall tubes....