Jeep dana 30 i want the best

[JeepRecoveryTeam]

just skip it go 1 tons. look what everyone does including me... bought the ttb 6 inch lift went 33 then went 35s. then swapped in the dana 44 went to 37 then went to 38s now im swappin in 60 and 14 bolt goin to 42 or 39.5 which ever i can find cheaper. the point is i wish i would have just went from stock to one tons and 40s would have saved alot of money and time in the long run. you know your gona wana keep getting bigger and keep wheelin more and harder trails. mind as well save your self the broken parts and labor. wish i would have.

 

[joshnlsn]

This is all very good info. But if you are going to spend the time and money, Don't downgrade. No matter what you are going to do with the truck...

 

[4x4junkie]

the D30 sounds like it might be fine for you. my buddy ran 35's, 4.56's, and a locker on the D30 in his CJ. he upgraded the axle shafts of course, but he never broke anything. he did hardcore mud and ALOT of crawlin plus he had a torquey 258 i6 turning it. u ought to find one for free and then fix it up, as others have said it'll be $$$$$$$$$$

BUT, why not save ur money and just keep the D35?

I guess it's only natural to compare the axle when it's still under the Jeep, it's a whhhollle different situation when it's under a vehicle with a good 500-600lbs more frontend weight (Supercab Ranger such as what's depicted in his avatar).

I'd be worried about the weak D30 housing with that kind of weight over it, forget about the shafts or what size tires he wants to run.
Keep the 35 or go 60.

And ×3 on what Toreador said, rocks do put much greater stress on shafts than mud, especially if you're running a locked diff (although mudding can stress the R&P gears more, which is another weak spot on the 30).

 

[1badexplorer]

just skip it go 1 tons. look what everyone does including me... QUOTE]

That would be great if the truck wasn't his DD. In PA the laws are very strick about fender flairs and bumper heights. He has to stick with an axle with close to stock WMS.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You can narrow the d60 ya know.

 

[1badexplorer]

You can narrow the d60 ya know.

Yes true but that would cost some cash and I don't really think he is looking to spend alot. IIRC he is still a high school student.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

His best best is to stick with the d35 till he reaches its limits.

 

[rockwerks]

I guess it's only natural to compare the axle when it's still under the Jeep, it's a whhhollle different situation when it's under a vehicle with a good 500-600lbs more frontend weight (Supercab Ranger such as what's depicted in his avatar).

I'd be worried about the weak D30 housing with that kind of weight over it, forget about the shafts or what size tires he wants to run.
Keep the 35 or go 60.

And ×3 on what Toreador said, rocks do put much greater stress on shafts than mud, especially if you're running a locked diff (although mudding can stress the R&P gears more, which is another weak spot on the 30).

Ran locked DD's for many years of crawling and never had any serious issues.....maybe its how we drive the rocks, I crawl many thrash............also if you are running an manual on the rock thats hard on parts.

I did 5 of the hardest trails in the southwest in 8 days in an XJ with dana 44 rear with arb and dana 30 front with disco and detroit gearless, and 3:54 gearing a great trip bent steering, broke one axle shaft, and went through 5 35" tires. Everytime I mud I break junk.

 

[1badexplorer]

Ran locked DD's for many years of crawling and never had any serious issues.....maybe its how we drive the rocks, I crawl many thrash............also if you are running an manual on the rock thats hard on parts.

I did 5 of the hardest trails in the southwest in 8 days in an XJ with dana 44 rear with arb and dana 30 front with disco and detroit gearless, and 3:54 gearing a great trip bent steering, broke one axle shaft, and went through 5 35" tires. Everytime I mud I break junk.

Yes, true everyone has s different driving style. But alot of professional mud racers are still running a d44 front with cut tires and a 800+ hp motor and it holds together fine. I would still say mud is easier on parts you may just drive "light-footed" when in the rocks.

 

[rockwerks]

Yes, true everyone has s different driving style. But alot of professional mud racers are still running a d44 front with cut tires and a 800+ hp motor and it holds together fine. I would still say mud is easier on parts you may just drive "light-footed" when in the rocks.

Mud racing and mudding are 2 totally different beasts, one you slog through the mud the other you skim on top. none of us hve 800 HP dedicated mud racer now do we?

 

[Snurfer]

you need the carrier for 3.55 and lower gear sets (numerically higher) from a D30( HP or LP the carrier doesnt matter, the gears DO though as all jeep cherokee axles are HP). the larger "shafts" you are looking for i believe are the same in all the jeep d30s. the larger U joints came in the 95-99 cherokees. the upgrade to dual piston brake calipers are from a 97-2001? jeep grand cherokee. the high steer knuckle upgrade is from Teraflex but is very expensive ($500) there is no axle that has all these components in one. the best starting point would be a D30 from a cherokee 95-99. grab the y link steering components too. you will need a tie rod end from the ranger to correctly bolt the drag link to the ranger pitman arm. it threads into the drag link no problem. hope that helps a little bit.

if you do more research and search the D30 threads on here you'll find everything youre looking for.

correct me if i am wrong. it wouldnt be the first time lol.

 

[rockwerks]

you need the carrier for 3.55 and lower gear sets (numerically higher) from a D30( HP or LP the carrier doesnt matter, the gears DO though as all jeep cherokee axles are HP). the larger "shafts" you are looking for i believe are the same in all the jeep d30s. the larger U joints came in the 95-99 cherokees. the upgrade to dual piston brake calipers are from a 97-2001? jeep grand cherokee. the high steer knuckle upgrade is from Teraflex but is very expensive ($500) there is no axle that has all these components in one. the best starting point would be a D30 from a cherokee 95-99. grab the y link steering components too. you will need a tie rod end from the ranger to correctly bolt the drag link to the ranger pitman arm. it threads into the drag link no problem. hope that helps a little bit.

if you do more research and search the D30 threads on here you'll find everything youre looking for.

correct me if i am wrong. it wouldnt be the first time lol.

ITs all good info, Id just not worry about keeping the nasty y link steering, just fab up a true crossover setup.

 

[Snurfer]

yeah true its kind of a half ass y link. partsmike.com has a legit y link set up that they can build you once you send them measurement for your tierod and drag link. the cherokee steering will work though if you're trying to build on a budget. i would also recommend going with a coil setup since the axle is already setup for it. its like 80% bolt in.

 

[Roger]

The cut for carriers in the D30 are 3.55 and down (3.07s), 3.73 and up (4.10s).

4.10 axles can be found in 4 banger Cherokees and some 5 speed 6 bangers.

HP D30s were available in all years Cherokee EXCEPT 2000 and 2001. The Center Axle Disconnect is only found in pre-95 XJs, although, some consider the CAD axle housing to be stronger thanks to the cast upper control arm mount. One can easily slip a one piece axle in place of the two piece and seal the opening for the vacuum servo. There are a couple ways to place a seal in the axle housing to keep the fluid in the diff...

If the D30 has ABS tone rings, you will have the larger 297 joints (same joints as the RBV D35).

You can find 3.73s in XJs and ZJs with tow packages.

A HP D30 ring gear is a bit stronger than a LP. But still, not quite as strong as the D35. But easily stronger than any D28.

D30 in all 93-98 Grand Cherokees are LP. Not all ZJ D30s have CV joints.

D30 brake calipers, unit bearings and rotors are the same after 1990 HP or LP, XJ, ZJ or TJ.

D30 in the 97-2001 is LP also, but has the sort of over the knuckle steering, and, the wrong bolt pattern. There is a spacer that will allow you to use the proper unit bearings but requires welding and drilling ov rotors to match bolt patterns. Also, the best brakes available were also the 97-01, but there are two types available. The single piston brakes aren't a big upgrade, but the dual piston "Akebono" brakes are the prize.

Yes, a D35 TTB is a direct swap for the D28. But you still have the constant toe change with wheel travel.

Why to use a D30. EASY and CHEAP to get, frequently FREE. They take a lot more abuse than most folks give them credit for, remember, there are lots of Jeep guys running the D30 with no trouble (and not all of us carry spare parts either). Axle width is very close to the Ranger, get to keep the same bolt pattern (although, some Ranger wheels might NOT fit the hub center). The coil spring mounts are almost in the perfect spot, as are the shocks. The brake lines that fit the Ranger will fit the D30 brakes. The D30 is easier for the average tire shop to align versus the TTB (this could be a real consideration). The D30 will bolt right up to the D35 front driveshaft, but you will need to get a different front shaft if swapping from the D28.

I THINK that is almost everything. I'm fairly confident this is correct.

I'm a Jeep guy with a 95 ZJ. I know my D30 isn't a D60, and drive accordingly.

 

[4x4junkie]

But you still have the constant toe change with wheel travel.

Insignificant if your steering linkage is setup correctly