It Works!!!!

[scotts90ranger]

I used a 45* adapter instead of a straight, seemed to fit better in my application, when I removed a few inches of the upper hose, for the conversion to the v6 radiator swap...

 

[Davis]

oh, for the upper w/ the v6 rad conversion, i just used a 2.9 l upper hose.

 

[hoss429]

with using the dis on a dizzy 88 tc motor what all will have to be changed im curious as to this?

 

[scotts90ranger]

the front seal housing thing is different between the two engines, and three holes need to be drilled, make a template from the DIS engine (I'd offer to mail mine to someone, but I used lexan and it's pretty trashed at this point...). the hard point is finding a 6mm roll pin to use for the alignment pin, I gave up easy and got a 6mm bolt with a shoulder and cut the head off and loctited it in (I think that hole goes through into the block). the bolt pattern for the front seal housing is different, what I did was slot the one hole that's different.

as for the wiring, I have a link somewhere, I'll dig it up later... what you do is tie the two output wires from the DIS module that go for the drivers side coil to ground so it thinks that coil is working.

it's all pretty mch straightforward...

 

[1up]

I'd like that info also.
I have an 89 Ranger with the DIS, and am dropping in the 86 Merkur 2.3t, I read here a while back where a guy (might have been you) that said it was easier to keep the DIS then swapping to a distributor.

I can go either way,I just need info on how to do it.

also I used my cast pan a did not have to mod anything (other that using the 89 oil pump) is there anything I need to watch for pertaining to leaks????

Curt

 

[scotts90ranger]

at some point in '86 they changed the oil pan seal type, I had to deal with filling in the hole because of the trough in the rear crank bearing cap, that's the only thing I had to do leak wise.

start HERE, that's the thread I made over on those forums, and is where I got my info...

put the ranger engine harness on the turbo engine one piece at a time, the things you will have to repin are those dealing with the TPS sensor and IAC, pull the IAC valve from the '89 engine or you will have to wire in the diode from the '86 engine harness, the newer IAC's have the diode in the components so the one in the wiring isn't necessary (unless someone says I'm wrong, which would explain some things). you will have to add in the vain air flow meter, and the boost control solenoid, along with a couple temperature sensors. although it's tempting, you need the barometric sensor from the donor car, the map sensor from the '89 isn't the same piece... (it's recessed into the top of the firewall above the blower housing on the passenger side). I isolated the wires I had to add to the harness, pulled the harness grommet through the firewall then slit it and put the wires in that to get them to the computer. using the ranger wires makes for a cleaner install as nearly all of the harness from donor engine would have had to been spliced, they changed connectors between those years...

oh, your fuel lines most likely aren't going to match between the donor engine and the ranger, what I did was get about 8 feet of both 3/8" and 5/16" high pressure fuel line and 4 hose clamps to fit over them, I put the respective fuel lines on the rail over the bumps that the quick releases would normally clip onto and placed the clamp there, routed the fuel lines over the brake booster (straightest line) and down to the fuel filter where I did the same thing on the fuel filter and the return line.

 

[scotts90ranger]

forgot to add that wasn't on the other link that I did to swap over to DIS, on the drivers side coil connector, cut the two wires with green on them and run them to ground, that'll tell the computer that the coil is working fine... even though it doesn't exist.

I'm sure I have the same mount for the passenger coil pack as you have, I cut mine up and extended it outward about 1.25", which got it out of the way of the cooling lines, I still had to tweak them though.

in order to use the '89 power steering pump, you are going to have to drill and tap a hole in the block, directly above the fuel pump block off plate, make a template off of the ranger engine for the 3 holes, drill and tap for 10mm threads, I know there isn't the same facing and as nice of a place for the third bolt to mount to, but it works, trust me... I'm only using those three bolts to hold the pump on, and I don't have the support bar that was supposed to go to the top of the pump to the intake manifold.

 

[1up]

Once you have the DIS bracket in place on the passenger side, How did you all reroute the water line coming off the turbo? the Z shaped one that runs directly into the DIS.

I'd really like to see some photo's of how every one runs their coolant lines, I guess it could get a bit creative.

Also I have a question about the turbo oil feed line.
being the miser that I am, has anyone used the steel braided lines made for sink type plumbing??????
Just curious, my concerns are the inside material/rubber of the hose, if it will break down in oil, and second is the seal, a rubber "O" ring.

I got's to know..............
Curt

 

[Bill G]

Also I have a question about the turbo oil feed line.
being the miser that I am, has anyone used the steel braided lines made for sink type plumbing??????
Just curious, my concerns are the inside material/rubber of the hose, if it will break down in oil, and second is the seal, a rubber "O" ring.

I got's to know..............
Curt

Curt just buy a complete feed kit from Ebay or any such place. DO NOT waste your time using any type of hose that is made for household plumbing. They will fail.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I just tweaked the stock lines to fit, I modified the passenger side coil mount to mount about 1 1/4" further outward.

one of these days I'll get the camera out, and one of these days I'll address my serious PCV issue... I'm going through oil pretty quick through the dipstick tube...

 

[Bill G]

one of these days I'll get the camera out, and one of these days I'll address my serious PCV issue... I'm going through oil pretty quick through the dipstick tube...

Are you using the OEM Ford turbo coupe PCV valve? I bought an new one the other day from the local Ford dealer. It's a huge difference between one you would buy at the local CSK or autozone. I'm also running a breather that routes back to the intake.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Delete the egr, What year is the car and truck? It should be legal to delete if its over 20 yrs old.

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

For oil feed just use 1/4 brake line and bend it however you want.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I didn't connect vacuum to the EGR valve, so it's disabled... or is it?

Bill, it had the original (or at least an old grey plastic motorcraft, looked like the the original from my '90 2.3) PCV in it when I got it, I took a discarded PCV from a 350 from work and shoved it in place as it's pretty much what you get from autozone or wherever... I know, I know, a GM part in on a ford engine... I'll have to look into the OEM valve from the local dealer... I'm running the stock breather thingy, I think it goes back to the intake.

 

[Bill G]

I didn't connect vacuum to the EGR valve, so it's disabled... or is it?

It won't work without vacuum

Bill, it had the original (or at least an old grey plastic motorcraft, looked like the the original from my '90 2.3) PCV in it when I got it, I took a discarded PCV from a 350 from work and shoved it in place as it's pretty much what you get from autozone or wherever... I know, I know, a GM part in on a ford engine... I'll have to look into the OEM valve from the local dealer... I'm running the stock breather thingy, I think it goes back to the intake.

Scott, if you blow into the small end of the PCV valve it should seal and not leak any air out of the big end. The cheaper ones you would get from say autozone or CSK will leak and let air out. If the valve leaks you get air pressure in the oil pan and have problems like you have. The breather cap is supposed to vent air back into the intake if the PCV valve is leaking. Of course if the boost pressure is too much it will push oil into the intake also. I would strongly advise on getting a new OEM turbocoupe PCV valve. I have the part number and can let you have if needed.

If you also run high boost numbers (over 20 psi) you run the risk of overpowering even a OEM valve. It doesn't happen with all of them, just some.