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It still persists.... need advice...


Duane867

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 31, 2010
Messages
1,945
Age
50
City
Columbus
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
So I replaced the radius arm bushings thinking it would solve my drivers side floor board knock. Nope. Just dampened it a bit.
What else will cause this ? I can feel it and hear it in the floor board.
My cab brackets are rusted and the bushings have fallen through but there still seemed to be plenty of room not to allow and thing to hit down there.
Dont worry .. those will be replaced soon too LOL !
 
many a disconnected or broken sway bar link have been mistaken for many other things, but they do offer a good "knocking" in the floor and often times they aren't obvious unless you are looking for them
 
Are the bushings tight in the crossmember? If you're in the rust belt the crossmember hole where the bushings fit tends to get rusted and enlarged which allows even new bushings to still move around.
 
Tight as cab be. I checked for out of round and fit before I reinstalled. All checked out.
Not even a scuff on the inner bore.

Replaced the stabilizer end links today ( may have over torqued them ? I put the monkey grip on the bolts cause I was in a hurry before it got dark. The replacements are frick'n plastic though ! ). They were not broken or disconnected. bushings looked a little dried but all still there. Probably a little shrunken. Haven't noticed the knock yet ( usually happens in specific areas during my commute ) but the ching ching sound is still there going over bumps. Not nearly as loud or pronounced but there none the less. The end links cured half of it, now I think it either lays with the stabilizer bar bracket bushings or the tie rod/center link assembly. Its pretty loose. I can move it freely by hand back and forth.

I am scared of those damn axle pivot bushings now LOL ! If thats what is causing the sloppy ching ching and knock then boy do I have work ahead of me. Have to remove both springs, drop both arms, buy a removal and installation tool etc etc etc....
If I have to drop those beams any way ( forged ) IF it is the pivot bushings I think I am just going to save a little and buy new beams and replace the brackets as well.
I mean its all going to be apart any way and the beams them selves are getting nice slices of steel flaking off from rust.
 
Last edited:

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