It Alive..A successfull "Duraspark conversion"

[John Smith]

It's Alive..A successfull "Duraspark conversion"

I know many have done this but since i have posted some about this new-2 me 84" B2 I thought i would give an update even a visual one that maybe a new user could benefit from as well. I decide to put the "module" on the passenger side, and retain the stock coil location "as was"..and it made for a quick wiring job once i decided which way to go. I appreciate the input of the 2.8 specialists here who gave input. I was fortunate to have in my collection of stuff an 86" diz/ecm harness from a 2.3L that was very long so I put the ecm on the passenger side (and grounded it well) where there was a lot of room and ran my wires across the motor like it did from the factory harness and cut the old harness accordingly so I had a minimum amount of soldering and splicing. Also if I DO drop a 2.3 in here..the diz harness will be just right as well...

(I should also say that i had purchased a diz from a 78 Ford Pinto/Mustang II that i found locally and used the typical "cap adapter and cap" listed in the tech library) Installing it was typical and w/o drama being familiar with this procedure from prior experience. I WILL say it helped for me to make a mark on the firewall where the TFI rotor was pointing to b4 removing the stock diz at TDC-#1...

I'm not sure what my timing is set at..I just put the rotor point at approx the same position for Number one (1) to catch a wire I liked and gave myself room to move around a little. after plugging all the vacuum holes on the stock 84 2150A..it fired right up...

side note: I don't currently own a timing lite right now I know it's not kewl but for me if ur gonna "duraspark it" why get so technical...(this is just one step better than a set of points u know that don't you?)...so i just have decided to wait till i can afford a decent one or find one at a garage sale...(I like old school)...this is just a hobby anyway right?...

My strategy for timing at this point is to advance it for fastest idle...and see how it starts..when I give it a road test if I hear any issues at all I'll back it off a little maybe we'll see..(when i get the the new/old carb ready to put on I'll dig out the vacuum gauge and fine tune everything).

http://classicinlines.com/Vacuum.asp
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/411958-adjusting-2100-autolite.html

On my 55' Ford I used to set the timing where it would run smooth yet start easy on the gas I was burning..we'll see how that strategy works...(This reminds me of what I like about carbs..you can always tune it better as you drive it..but at least it fires up..sometimes UNLIKE an EFI powered vehicle..)

I'll get some parts ordered for this old 2100 I have now and see if I can improve anything..it runs great now though..thanks again all..

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool I see you have the upper t-stat housing did you add that or was it there. Alot of guys have problems with the lower thermostat location I know mine works alot better with in on the upper hose. I just stumbled upon one at the bone yard and even in the hot summer the guage never goes past half. You can mess with the timing but I found 10 degrees works best on mine. For your 2100 carb a few things you will need a carb spacer felpro #60529. Glue a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to a flat board and surface the base of the carb and with a new gasket between the spacer and carb snug it down dont over tighten it. Also get a OEM EGR gasket and pull the egr and see if it it leaking internally or just make a plate to terminate it proper. On the carb is a vacuum port to the choke assy find a way to plug it off if your putting a electric choke thermostat just put a cap or plug on the fitting that goes to the preheater tube. I have a choke thermostat off a late 70s and have it wired to pos on the coil. GL

 

[John Smith]

Cool I see you have the upper t-stat housing did you add that or was it there. Alot of guys have problems with the lower thermostat location I know mine works alot better with in on the upper hose. I just stumbled upon one at the bone yard and even in the hot summer the guage never goes past half....... I have a choke thermostat off a late 70s and have it wired to pos on the coil. GL

The housing was there but it was leaking badly. The PO had put a new radiator in it but had not mounted it right so i had to take it out and while it was out I refreshed all the gaskets and stopped the leaks. I checked to make sure there was no thermostat in the lower as well..( one of the three bolt heads were rounded off so i didn't mess with it any more than to see if there was a therm in it).. The thermo up top was working ( I boiled it in water) it opened at 180 or so...so i put in back in (after drilling a small hole in the top edge) but the gauge still reads near hot...(using my turkey thermometer though shows it's running cool unuf..not sure what i'll do with the guage as it is..maybe the sender is shot)

On edit I find that early 2100 jets are hard to find but..(the supplier i found only had later years "64 -1/2 and later jets) Evidentley before 64 Holley supplied the jets and may be available form Holley,,checking
I think I'll find some 40's or so this week and try them first. I know many like these 2.8's for MORE power but my main interest is smooth running and economy so I'll see what i can do to run it leaner...appreciate all the tips..
This 1.01 2100 came on a 260/289 so i think it'll be fine with tuning...Surely it can power this 171...

about the other stuff, I'm pretty much up to speed with although I DID appreciate the part number for the carb spacer...my carb parts will come in a week or so ..giving me enuf time to make an egr block-off plate..i just happened to have the gasket from a past project..

We'll keep n tuch...

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I would be leary about running it too lean you risk burning valves and piston heads I have been running #46s for two yrs now with no problems.

 

[John Smith]

I've got some 46's...

but the curiousity is making me want to try leaner and then richen if i have too..it won't be too hard to tell w/o hurting anything...I have sheets that call for running 38's in a 260 at certain altitudes...

call me too curious..we'll see

It could be that the ethynol gas we're getting these days may need a liitle larger jets...we'll try to get to the bottom of it..

I would be leary about running it too lean you risk burning valves and piston heads I have been running #46s for two yrs now with no problems.

 

[John Smith]

Ordered some jets 2day...

and basically for my "pre-64-1/2 2100 autolite" it seems that Holley jets were originally used so the 1/4"x32 #40 jets will be here 2marrow. I know these may seem a little lite but we'll give'm a run and see what they look like with my current ethynol blend i have to run in in SO

Thanks 2 you KIMetc..I know you've done a lot of work with this 2.8L. After thinking about it..I may just use my 2100 choke/heater tube arrangment as long as it can get it to work properly and let it go as far as a choke is concerned.

(On edit...I have decided to install one of those "manual choke add-on kits" for now ( I already had one for Weber project) ..and do a little tuning of this carb to see how these older 2100's work on the 2.8L I like the simplicity of this carb..and they came on F100's from the early 60's on up as a manual choke only option. I'm now on the hunt for one of those carbs They are cast a little differently or at least adapt the manual choke cam mechanism to the one i have for it is very robust...

FYI those carbs came in a 1.02 and larger if any is interested and would make a great carb as well i think (63 and up)..

I happen to have a couple of 1.08 fuel bowls left if any are interested..I acquired a few extra carb parts in a purchase a few weeks back and seem to have a few "older parts I may never use...i CAN say if this 1.01 works as it seems it should..I wont have a use for these 1.08 fuel bowls for sure.......

 

[John Smith]

I found a carb adapter leak so..

I did a little sealing up while it was off...I happened to have that gasket that is used to seal the adapter to the manifold so I worked on the adapter some to solve a few leaks that were apparent. I imagine it would be good to also refresh the manifold/head seal but I'll leave that for another time and just clean up the manifold on the engine for now..just need to get it running with the new/old carb..It's amazing what you can do with some sandpaper on a kitchen counter-top...(actually just a spare piece of slab)



came out ok enuf..


The sun came out so i thought I'd put the carb on this pm...It runs...need to do a wet adjust on the float, and hook up the choke but...seems to perc just right...

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Just wondering if you put a new carb spacer felpro # 60529 under that carb for the vacuum leak where the old TPS used to be.

 

[John Smith]

good morn'n..

no I didn't use the 60529 actually..I had another one that fit the venturi better on this older 2100..i just polished it up ..seems to be fine...the 60529 actually has a larger tb bore size than my 2100..FYI when I modded the carb adapter..I did a little sealing here and there anyway...

 

[John Smith]

I did a little Carb -base comparing

Just wondering if you put a new carb spacer felpro # 60529 under that carb for the vacuum leak where the old TPS used to be.

I happen to have an actual non-feedback 2150 core, and an old 1.08 venturi 2100 and by comparing the bases, it seems that the 2150 base actually does have potential to have a leak w/o the 60529 gasket but the older 2100 is shaped differently in the casting area. I think that what I used on my B2 is actually a one of the oem bases for a 2150A and it seemed to seal perfectly with this older style 2100, so i used it..(and the throttle bore is a match)

But since i have to take it off to do some work on the choke..I'll double check all of that for potential leak...but a non-feedback 2150 would definitely have a vacuum leak w/o the 60529..

I am actually looking for an older 2100 from a 60's PU F100 (they have a factory manual choke that lets you get rid of the housing sticking out)...it interferes with a nice little chrome air filter bonnet I have for the valve cover....