2.3L ('83-'97) Is it worth fixing the 96 more

[Kailash]

So I have a 1996 manual 2.3 that I bought at auction a couple years back. Broken odometer
It's my only vehicle. I've done a lot to it, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, radiator ( I was dumb it's didn't need radiator), fuel pump, spark plugs, iac,02 sensor, some more stuff I'm forgetting.

It has some clutch or transmission issues that I can't figure out. It really hates going in to first and second. Double clutching helps with second. Reving helps with first or if I shift during the lurch when I stop.

I know air in the clutch can be a problem but I've tried everything to get air out but no cigar.


My plan would be new clutch and new transmission. But is it worth it?

Also I probably need most of a exhaust system and I broke one of my AC mounting bolts so I'm only rocking 3 at the moment lol

Thanks

 

[AHenry014]

Issues getting into gear is usually a dragging clutch, most likely due to issues with the clutch hydraulics. Doing a quick rockauto search, it appears as though the Ranger MIGHT suffer the same bleeding issues that I am familiar with in OBS Fords. Trapped air in the master is very painful to remove with the clutch hydraulics installed so rockauto and the like sells "prefilled/prebled" systems, which helps with the bleed process tremendously (I believe you still need to bleed the slave once everything's installed).

Seeing as how you cant replace the clutch slave without dropping the trans, Id certainly do so for an inspection. Clutch kits are cheap enough, so toss one in there and stab the trans back in. Worst case, drop the trans for another second hand one if it still misbehaves, but id still put money on it being the clutch hydros still having air in it, or the clutch itself.

I had a car with a failing clutch pilot bearing. It would intermittently "lock" the crank and the trans input shaft, making it seem as if the clutch wasnt doing anything.

 

[superj]

i would keep fixing it. fixing parts is cheaper than 500-800 a month car payments

 

[Kailash]

Issues getting into gear is usually a dragging clutch, most likely due to issues with the clutch hydraulics. Doing a quick rockauto search, it appears as though the Ranger MIGHT suffer the same bleeding issues that I am familiar with in OBS Fords. Trapped air in the master is very painful to remove with the clutch hydraulics installed so rockauto and the like sells "prefilled/prebled" systems, which helps with the bleed process tremendously (I believe you still need to bleed the slave once everything's installed).

Seeing as how you cant replace the clutch slave without dropping the trans, Id certainly do so for an inspection. Clutch kits are cheap enough, so toss one in there and stab the trans back in. Worst case, drop the trans for another second hand one if it still misbehaves, but id still put money on it being the clutch hydros still having air in it, or the clutch itself.

I had a car with a failing clutch pilot bearing. It would intermittently "lock" the crank and the trans input shaft, making it seem as if the clutch wasnt doing anything.

What makes you think it's air vs a bad syncro? Also should I do rear main seal while I'm down there?

 

[AHenry014]

I would certainly do the rear main while in there. You're only a flywheel removal away from getting that changed.

A bad synchro can also present itself similarly, but in my experience, usually finds the gear just fine, but grinds on the way in. A clutch that isnt fully disengaged will likely just be difficult to get into gear, but not grind if the trans is in good shape. If the trans has been driven like this for some time, it may have taken some abuse and now has synchro issues, leading to difficulty getting into gear AND a grind, but its definitely cheaper to small and work your way up to swapping the trans. If you want to throw parts at it and can obtain a known good second hand transmission, then you can also swap it out, but if it were me, id be trying everything to bleed the clutch before taking it apart to swap parts. Then id go after the clutch and clutch hydraulics. Then all else fails, swap the trans for another one.

 

[Kailash]

Alright thanks, I'll take your advice

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'm a bit far for helping with an only vehicle but I do have an extra set of synchros for an M5OD, I think don't have the right ones for 5/R though since my '90 has the older one...

I've played the is it worth it game before, it's why I gave up on the Geo Tracker I had, was getting too clapped out for daily driver duty... but also why I got my '97 Ranger for a daily driver, more complicated than I wanted but I'm not scared of much of anything on it...

One dumb thing that sometimes help get some last air out of the clutch is engine off and pedal to the floor and slip your foot off the pedal and repeat a handful of times, doesn't always work but also only takes a couple seconds so nothing to lose...

 

[Kailash]

I'm a bit far for helping with an only vehicle but I do have an extra set of synchros for an M5OD, I think don't have the right ones for 5/R though since my '90 has the older one...

I've played the is it worth it game before, it's why I gave up on the Geo Tracker I had, was getting too clapped out for daily driver duty... but also why I got my '97 Ranger for a daily driver, more complicated than I wanted but I'm not scared of much of anything on it...

One dumb thing that sometimes help get some last air out of the clutch is engine off and pedal to the floor and slip your foot off the pedal and repeat a handful of times, doesn't always work but also only takes a couple seconds so nothing to lose...

Yea probably a bit far but I appreciate it

 

[Kailash]

So I replaced the clutch plus hydraulics, and it seems to have fixed it. Truck feels way better. I really appreciate the advice.